My newest build. Acrylic BNB case by the amazing @jonyfraze with Korean Hybrid Jlf Magenta, 3d printed feet, mounting plate, top panel screws, neutrik surround and stabilizer, Brook UFB enclosure, dustwasher and my newest top design, the Bat Ball!
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I see some one is a Seattle Seahawks fan !!
Nope. Giants for life.
It would be nice to mention that the “korean hybrid JLF” (without the magenta nor handle) is not a Sanwa product nor a PAS one, but a "OTTO DIY " product, namely the V2 lever model, all OTTO-DIY lever parts being the result of a one-man-project. Sure it’s a partial clone, but there’s some work involved for the adaptation. No wonder the magenta shaft assembly fits since V2 bushing is 7mm internal diameter(same as genuine jlf pivot bearing bore diam), also it’s obvious the magenta housing and pcb snap-fit in place simply because the Otto jlf type lever has tabs of same dimensions just like genuine JLF body(since it’s a partial repro).
I got this great, patriotic stick from butteroj. He had already done an excellent job wiring and assembling top notch materials (AFS case, Brook Universal, Magenta). I simply changed the balltop, art, and the bottom plexi (had to try red) for a different aesthetic for the time being. I dig villains and Carnage is one of my favorites, so I used his appearance from Carnage USA for the concept, and evermorestandard whipped up some art. It’s a really cool stick and my first time using a Magenta, so I’m having a lot of fun so far. Anyway, butteroj was very nice so buy a balltop from him. Aaron from AFS was very helpful in getting the art formatted correctly, and evermorestandard was nice to work with too. A pleasant experience all around. Check out some of the other photos for that red plexi bottom.
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A Sega Versus City themed design showcased on this image of a qanba q4 mod courtesy of @capcomatmebro over on twitter.
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I was so disappointed with the NeoGeo mini, all I wanted was a tiny AES with a couple of the old sticks for bashing around in metal slug and the fighters. So I found a couple of NOS NeoGeo X sticks on aliexpress, which have fairly rubbish buttons but are still good for the price. Then a 4 buck wii controller for the PCB, 20 minutes, and blam!
The mini snes does a pretty good job of emulation, and the sticks also work on my Wii/u.
Walkthrough here: https://imgur.com/gallery/t7NbFjf
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So you basically pad hacked wired Wii controllers, and they worked perfectly in the SNES Mini? I’m asking, because I had a PSX->Wii adapter that I tried with my SNES Mini, but no dice.
I’ve heard that some adapters don’t work, I haven’t tried any myself. But the wired controllers do work, as does the wii TvC stick.
Some of these knockoff wii CCP controllers apparently need an additional resistor added to make them register, so the issue with the adapter could be something like that.
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Pretty much what @Cubits said: I’ve also tried official Classic Controllers, official Classic Controller Pros, a knockoff Classic Controller Pro, and the Mad Catz Wii TvC stick without any issues on my SNES Classic.
The best part about using a Wii CC/CCP is that the “Home” button brings up the game-change menu, so no need to reach to console itself to save-state or change games.
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I finally got to what I feel is the perfect Arcade Stick. Hayabusa joystick with 2lb spring, Seimitsu buttons, Noir layout, 45mm Balltop (I’ve got big hands) and the backplate painted in a textured Black that has great grip without any pads, just the weight of the stick itself. All I need to do now is change the art, which I think it’s awesome for a poster or something like that but I don’t really like it as stick art.
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Finally completed this stick.
Needed a more portable Switch-compatible stick as my ABS-Modular with a Cerberus inside was getting too big/heavy to carry around. My modded TvC was staying on PS4, so I pulled out this case out of storage.
For those who have been around for a few years, you might remember that I’ve modded the crap out of my Exar Exaprize USB Sanwa Edition back in early 2013. I got a custom metal panel made (Straight-6 layout), hand-cut my own matching plexi, added removable micro-USB cables, mounted a JLF at the proper height to the casing (not the metal panel).
I went back to the stock Astro panel, not because I prefer it over a Straight-6, but because the stick is so small that a Straight-6 is too close to the lever (I prefer buttons a bit further out). So stock Astro P1 panel it was.
Parts:
- Exar Exaprize USB Sanwa Edition casing
- hand-cut matching 1/16" acrylic plexiglass
- custom art inspired by various Hori sticks
- 6x Seimitsu PS-15 yellow pushbuttons
- Seimitsu LS-40-01 lever, with a yellow shaft-cover and a black Sanwa bat-top
- PowerA wired Switch controller with an added 20-pin header for easy swapping
- all my old casing mods from 2013 (detachable Micro USB cable jack, micro-tact switches under the secondary buttons)
Main top view:
Seimitsu LS-40-01 mounted (had to cut away some of casing to make it fit)
Hand-cut plexiglass (pain in the ass to cut!)
Internal wiring (with 20-pin header for the console PCB, 6-pin header for the sub-PCB)
I believe that I still have the most modded Exar Exaprize in the world. 
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My newest modded arcade stick
Sega Saturn Virtua Stick Pro HSS-0130 - MODDED https://imgur.com/gallery/FTyLUbH
I couldn’t upload the actual pics. My imgur is acting up again.
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My newest Retro Mod
For a stick that supposed to accept authentic parts it was kinda annoying.
When I tried to desolder the original joystick harness the solder pads lifted right away, good thing there on the same traces test points to solder too. The System cord wiring also broke and I had to resolder it to the board
As you see here I ignored the though holes for the system cord and soldered the wires directly to the pads.
The whole thing very is cheap and the built quality is noticeable. But the case is “good enough” for a dedicated NES Stick.
Took the Retro-Bit Power Stick for the NES and swap out parts as the stock parts are HANUS.
I dont have any before pictures
Inside the Case, I replaced the joystick harness with something proper. The Button wiring is stock Put in a Sanwa JLF (sans mount plate) as its a drop in replacement for the awful stock JLF clone. The buttons are Red Seimitsu PS-14-G, I used these for that flat top feel. Unfortunately the buttons didn’t fit at first and I had to sand the button holes to be wider. I found that the low profile Seimitsu PS-15 are too short and could not get a proper grip on the panel.
The Sanwa JLF shaft is shorter than the stock joystick, so I could not use it’s hybrid shaft cover and dustwasher. Fortunately for me I did find the JLF Dust washer fits under the top panel plastic as the area around the joystick is raised slightly.
I did find that Seimitsu LS-32, LS 40 and Sanwa JLW joysticks are too large to fit this tiny case.
You could fit a LS-56, 58, 60 in there if you are willing to do some case modding.
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Just finished up a ronin-themed build for a Xmas present. I got the art from @FoxBlaze and I got the case from @devastator and I got the buttons from @drawp
I etched the bottom of the case (which turned out pretty neat looking considering it was just a thin piece of plywood originally). I actually think a fully etched–the sides, top, bottom–stick could be pretty awesome. I’ll have to keep an eye on devastator’s store to see if anything that lends itself to a build like that comes up. Anyway, the case was walnut and Beli, so I stained it a red mahogany and hit it with some clear coat. Slapped in a JLF, an oversized ball, and Brook universal board, and voila: instant Xmas gift. Hope they like it.
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