Check Out My New Arcade Stick! (No Image Quoting)

[LuckyDay]

is it just me or is it impossible to match the green OBSF’s in CMYK?

It could be. CMYK doesn’t have the ability to match every color. Grab a pantone book (any local graphic designer, or maybe even a Kinkos will have one), see if you can find the color and it will have a key whether it can be matched in CMYK.

[networkingyuppy]

Hm, I had a question that went unanswered in the quick questions thread, figure I might try it out here…

"This might be a kind of complicated question…

I built a custom stick with with a soldered pcb placed in a project box. The wires I soldered onto my 360 pcb lead out of the project box and are soldered to a male db-15 pin connector (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428092147-00.jpg).
On my arcade stick, all the buttons and joystick are wired up and lead out of the box and are soldered to a female db-15 pin connector (though, can’t see it in the picture http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428092120-01.jpg).
In order to connect the arcade box to the project box, I bought 2 more db-15 connectors, (one male and one female), and used the same wires as used in the soldering, as I had a lot of leftover. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428091751-00.jpg, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428091755-00.jpg). so of course, the female end of the cable connects to the male end of the project box, and the male end of the cable connects to the female end of the arcade box. Everything works fine, although I went out to best buy to buy an actual 15-pin vga cable (male-female), as the “cable” that I made is too thick and stiff to able to let the project box sit down firmly on the ground.

The problem is, when I use the 15 pin vga cable that I bought from best buy, only 3 directions on the joystick work, and only one of my pushbuttons work. All other directional inputs and all other pushbuttons fail to receive any signal at all when pressed down.
Anyone able to help as to why this certain problem is happening? I don’t see why a regular cable like this won’t function correctly.
One thing to note that may be posing a problem, I did not solder all 15 pins, I only needed 12, as there are only 12 total buttons on my arcade stick. So I ended up with 3 “floating pins”. I asked an employee if even with floating pins, would the cable still work fine. He said it would…

Is there another type of 15 pin cable that I should be using? Or do I simply have to either deal with the cable I have or buy a thinner wire in order to solder up a more flexible make-shift cable?
"

I guess just to keep with the spirit of the thread =) http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/?start=all

You should try to post this on a new thread. You’ll get more feedback and more posters that will help you. Unfortunately this is the wrong spot to post.

[drunkninja42]

Hm, I had a question that went unanswered in the quick questions thread, figure I might try it out here…

"This might be a kind of complicated question…

I built a custom stick with with a soldered pcb placed in a project box. The wires I soldered onto my 360 pcb lead out of the project box and are soldered to a male db-15 pin connector (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428092147-00.jpg).
On my arcade stick, all the buttons and joystick are wired up and lead out of the box and are soldered to a female db-15 pin connector (though, can’t see it in the picture http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428092120-01.jpg).
In order to connect the arcade box to the project box, I bought 2 more db-15 connectors, (one male and one female), and used the same wires as used in the soldering, as I had a lot of leftover. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428091751-00.jpg, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428091755-00.jpg). so of course, the female end of the cable connects to the male end of the project box, and the male end of the cable connects to the female end of the arcade box. Everything works fine, although I went out to best buy to buy an actual 15-pin vga cable (male-female), as the “cable” that I made is too thick and stiff to able to let the project box sit down firmly on the ground.

The problem is, when I use the 15 pin vga cable that I bought from best buy, only 3 directions on the joystick work, and only one of my pushbuttons work. All other directional inputs and all other pushbuttons fail to receive any signal at all when pressed down.
Anyone able to help as to why this certain problem is happening? I don’t see why a regular cable like this won’t function correctly.
One thing to note that may be posing a problem, I did not solder all 15 pins, I only needed 12, as there are only 12 total buttons on my arcade stick. So I ended up with 3 “floating pins”. I asked an employee if even with floating pins, would the cable still work fine. He said it would…

Is there another type of 15 pin cable that I should be using? Or do I simply have to either deal with the cable I have or buy a thinner wire in order to solder up a more flexible make-shift cable?
"

I guess just to keep with the spirit of the thread =) http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/?start=all

Not all VGA cables use every pin. Even if their connectors have them, it doesn’t mean each pin is connected to a wire, which sounds like is the issue you’re having with that cable (despite what the BB rep told you). Unfortunately, there’s no real way to tell if a VGA cable is using all of the connectors without disassembling or cutting the cable.

[Missing_Person]

Not all VGA cables use every pin. Even if their connectors have them, it doesn’t mean each pin is connected to a wire, which sounds like is the issue you’re having with that cable (despite what the BB rep told you). Unfortunately, there’s no real way to tell if a VGA cable is using all of the connectors without disassembling or cutting the cable.

Um…huh?

If you have a multimeter, you can put one probe on pin 1 of one end of the cable, and the other probe on pin 1 on the other end, check for continuity, repeat for each pin.

There is no need to rip open a cable.

[LuckyDay]

…lol… or maybe a continuity tester. But I guess some people like doing things the hard way.

[CowboyK]

Dang, lots of these sticks are lookin’ real sexy.

[System_1]

Nice design, so clean…i love clean designs

Thanks, I wanted something 2 color so it’d be cheap to get printed on vinyl more like the original rather than lamilable stuff. not a fan of how the exposed edges come out.

[matge]

Hm, I had a question that went unanswered in the quick questions thread, figure I might try it out here…

"This might be a kind of complicated question…

I built a custom stick with with a soldered pcb placed in a project box. The wires I soldered onto my 360 pcb lead out of the project box and are soldered to a male db-15 pin connector (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428092147-00.jpg).
On my arcade stick, all the buttons and joystick are wired up and lead out of the box and are soldered to a female db-15 pin connector (though, can’t see it in the picture http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428092120-01.jpg).
In order to connect the arcade box to the project box, I bought 2 more db-15 connectors, (one male and one female), and used the same wires as used in the soldering, as I had a lot of leftover. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428091751-00.jpg, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/0428091755-00.jpg). so of course, the female end of the cable connects to the male end of the project box, and the male end of the cable connects to the female end of the arcade box. Everything works fine, although I went out to best buy to buy an actual 15-pin vga cable (male-female), as the “cable” that I made is too thick and stiff to able to let the project box sit down firmly on the ground.

The problem is, when I use the 15 pin vga cable that I bought from best buy, only 3 directions on the joystick work, and only one of my pushbuttons work. All other directional inputs and all other pushbuttons fail to receive any signal at all when pressed down.
Anyone able to help as to why this certain problem is happening? I don’t see why a regular cable like this won’t function correctly.
One thing to note that may be posing a problem, I did not solder all 15 pins, I only needed 12, as there are only 12 total buttons on my arcade stick. So I ended up with 3 “floating pins”. I asked an employee if even with floating pins, would the cable still work fine. He said it would…

Is there another type of 15 pin cable that I should be using? Or do I simply have to either deal with the cable I have or buy a thinner wire in order to solder up a more flexible make-shift cable?
"

I guess just to keep with the spirit of the thread =) http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v294/rebellious/Arcade%20Stick%20Adventures/?start=all

I use the exactly same method for my Stick!
I took a thin VGA Cable and found out thath Pin 8,9 and 10 are grounded.
So there where only 13 Wires, and that was enough for my Stick.
6 Buttons, 4 Directions, Start, Select and Ground.

Inside the Case of the Xbox360 PCB i soldered Back+Guide together. The Xbox Registers the Back Guide first, and then the Xbox Menu appears.

Here with the PS1 pcb:
http://img23.imageshack.us/i/image210v.jpg/
http://img23.imageshack.us/i/image208s.jpg/
http://img32.imageshack.us/i/image209s.jpg/

[thebluedino]

just finished my first complete stick mod
pretty basic stuff, jlf, seimitsu buttons, I expoxied over the the turbo section and added a 24mm sanwa button for home and a usb adapter for charging.
everything wired rather messily to a sixaxis via an axisdapter

full build photos here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluedino/

[Pasky]

just finished my first complete stick mod
pretty basic stuff, jlf, seimitsu buttons, I expoxied over the the turbo section and added a 24mm sanwa button for home and a usb adapter for charging.
everything wired rather messily to a sixaxis via an axisdapter

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3480/3857808331_55132a0edf.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2663/3857805271_fb7f0df988.jpg

full build photos here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluedino/

Very clean modding. Most people have some jagged holes when adding buttons but that looks very clean. Also, LOL @ the Morrigan & Lillith artwork.

[drunkninja42]

Um…huh?

If you have a multimeter, you can put one probe on pin 1 of one end of the cable, and the other probe on pin 1 on the other end, check for continuity, repeat for each pin.

There is no need to rip open a cable.

Ah yes, you are right sir…long night last night:looney:

[Acill]

I just got my stick done. Nothing to fancy but I like it a lot.

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss212/prezendes/3853100523_8975ace54d.jpg

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss212/prezendes/3853889238_131ec5f1c7.jpg

[thebluedino]

Very clean modding. Most people have some jagged holes when adding buttons but that looks very clean. Also, LOL @ the Morrigan & Lillith artwork.

Thanks, I was really suprised how nicely they turned out. It was just a basic ACE hole saw and a borrowed hand drill but it did the job quite well.

[Clunetastic]

just finished my first complete stick mod
pretty basic stuff, jlf, seimitsu buttons, I expoxied over the the turbo section and added a 24mm sanwa button for home and a usb adapter for charging.
everything wired rather messily to a sixaxis via an axisdapter

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3480/3857808331_55132a0edf.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2663/3857805271_fb7f0df988.jpg

full build photos here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluedino/

Love the art

[PHATAL_PHD]

dope stick Dino!

[ecKsniNe]

Here’s a protip for working with heatshrink when you don’t have a hot air gun to shrink it. If you have a lighter or windproof lighter, use it and run it over the heatshrink. It takes a little longer than a hot air gun, but it works just fine. Don’t keep the flame in one spot for obvious reasons.

This is what i do. I always use a lighter.

[jonasjonathan]

great stick acill

[kte03]

Here’s my official “Bang Shishigami arcade stick of love and justice!”

Seimitsu LS-56 stick with octagonal gate and Seimitsu PS-14-KN buttons with LED mod:
[IMG]http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9935/img0321j.jpg

And the buttons all lit up:
[IMG]http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8806/img0322j.jpg

Light up green buttons is a perfect fit for this stick IMO, lol.

Also, I realize my Turbo box cutout isn’t exactly even, I couldn’t find my xacto so I just went at it with my Ginsu kitchen knife. I’ll make it more even once I find the xacto.

Nice job on the LED mod. I like the overall presentation of your stick, other than your turbo cut, but there’s something about lami-label that I don’t like. I think MameMarquees just looks really nice I guess. Too expensive tho >____< Hopefully you’ll get the turbo fixed.

[krayzied240]

This is my second controller I made for a friend who is a Stephen King fan.
http://www.joystickvault.com/data/500/medium/gunslingerTop.jpg
http://www.joystickvault.com/data/500/medium/gunslingerBottom.jpg
http://www.joystickvault.com/data/500/medium/gunslingerRight.jpg
http://www.joystickvault.com/data/500/medium/gunslingerLeft.jpg

nice stick but the joystick is mounted pretty deep, i use 1/4 support + 1/8 plexi panels for mine’s and its strong enough for a happ stick and its gives me much better height

[nerand]

Hi,

I’ve been reading this thread since january. Simply amazing the sticks you guys put up here. It’s kept me motivated to make my own arcadestick, so after months of cursing here’s my first (and hopefully not last) stick. (Ikaruga-themed, in case people didn’t notice :)).

Seimitsu buttons, Sanwa JLF stick. This is gonna be used mostly for shooters, so when i get my fighting stick done (or end up buying a TE) i’ll change to octagonal gate and mod to get less deadzone.

A better view of the artwork: