Yep those, just use those and a couple of zip ties around the 360 PCB to secure it, then proceed with the mod as normal. Alternatively you can pop the zip ties/anchors on, do the mod, THEN remove the adhesive backing and stick the whole assembly down.
So I’m an idiot, I was bringing all the boxes to ship with me today so I can get them all out at once, and in a late rush to get to work I left the bag of them in my kitchen. I’ll be popping them all in the after hours drop box tonight. Mortified/gummo, yours will go out tomorrow… sorry bout’ that. Should still reach most of you by Thursday though.
Yours (and everyone else’s) are away 100% as of yesterday and should be arriving to some of you shortly. Hell, some of you already got them I’d bet… still find it funny when I ship to towns that are like a half hour away from me by car.
This is the first wave out, so if there’s anything you notice or bugs you that I didn’t cover in the install by all means let me know and I’ll update it and add an FAQ.
One customer on FB said he will be doing an install video shortly after he receives them. I’ll get that into the OP when he does!
Phreakazoid, I just received my Cerberus today and tried to install it on my Chun TE Stick.
However, when it comes to placing the Cerberus on top of the existing PCB, I’m having problems getting the #3 spot to go down on the existing PCB.
Because of this, I can’t evenly have all the other spots go in either.
I’m not sure if this is causing the joystick’s down inputs not registering on the 360 mode.
Is there something I’m doing wrong?
Wrong? Probably not, it just sounds like one or two of the pins on the JLF headers pot (#3) are bent and causing it to not go down nicely.
You’re saying that you have it down unevenly, but all the inputs register except down? Everything else work OK?
I’d say pics are good place to start on this one, both a clean shot of the 360 PCB and then perhaps the underside of the cerberus if you could, preferrably a close shot of the #3 spot, where the JLF harness goes.
I’m betting it’s just a slightly off pin, make sure they’re all straight, you can probably look on the underside of the cerberus at the #3 spot and see where the pin is digging into the plastic of the connector, then perhaps bend the header pin of the 360 PCB to compensate. In my own testing I found that the JLF spot may take some finagling since the header pins are a little larger and need to be a little more precise.
I’m actually not seeing the #3 spot really as being messed up at all. When you say “uneven” do you mean it clearly rocks back and forth over a spot or it feels like you can press it all the way down but just kinda looks off?
edit: that would mean the guide on 360 would likely not work. I see what you mean by uneven. The other pins go down but the JLF spot isn’t.
One thing you can do is unscrew the 360 board and connect them once outside of the stick to get a better idea of where it’s getting caught up.
By the way, I forgot to answer your other question about if everything else was working.
Yes, all the other stick inputs and button inputs are fine in both modes.
I did unscrew the 360 board and connect them together.
Now I see that the Cerberus JFL spot is just slightly to the left within the white guide on the 360 board.
Just to verify though, the ONLY thing not working in the current setup is DOWN, and it’s ONLY on 360. PS3/PC it works? Please test with the game controllers applet for all signals (and both modes) to get the best feedback on the signals responding.
Well then in that case I need you to bust out a multimeter and check these:
Unplug the USB cable, but with the boards connected check that there’s continuity between the DOWN spot on the cerberus and the DOWN solder joint on the 360 PCB underside. Set your multimeter to continuity mode, where it beeps at you if the signals are connected. You may have to remove the setup from the stick to access the underside of the 360 board (It’s possible to come at it from the side though).
If 1 checks out, put the setup back in your stick and plug in the USB cable with LP held down (so force 360 mode on your PC), then measure the voltage on DOWN as opposed to other signals… left, right, and up if you can. Do it without the signal activated, and then with the signal activated.
The right spot on the front is the JLF spot, and you can see that it’s not fully seated.
I can’t get it to go all the way in just in that JLF spot, and I’m afraid I’ll break the PCB if I try to force it.
The other spots can go in fine, just not that JLF spot.
It’s either down or up that’s getting snagged then, by that picture I’d bet down. I’d say down needs to be bent to the right more (referencing this previous picture with the 2 boards together).
If you want solid visibility into it, but I don’t think you need to if you try bending the pin a bit. Take a pair of diagonal cutters and snip away the solid back section (the side in that picture) of the white shrouding of the JLF header (#3, labeled CN3 in silk screen). That will give you visibility on the cross section to see where it’s hitting/how far to bend it. I’m betting that DOWN still just needs to be bent a little bit to the right and it’ll slide right in.
Don’t be afraid to press them together with a little authority, just put your thumb on the cerberus’ solder joints and your index finger on the underside of the 360 board on the JLF solder points. Pressure will only be on that spot, nowhere else on the board. By little authority I don’t mean squeeze it with the jaws of life >.< just a firm press.
I had the same issue on my first Cerberus install; the JLF header pins preventing the full PCB to seat properly. Bending the pins bit by bit (lots of trial and error) on the MC PCB resolved the issue. Definitely recommend securing the 2 PCBs with zip ties. Otherwise, awesome product!
The one issue I had was not following the installation guide correctly: when it says to insert the RGWB wires far enough into the usb terminals to see the colors through the little windows and to close the terminals so the wires are actually punched through (and not merely bent by the pressure) it means it.
Once that was fixed it was really just a matter of doing the verification process and then testing it out on the PC, 360, and PS3.
Boom, worked perfectly. I haven’t seen any input lag or anything between the 3 systems either!
The DOWN pin may give users trouble, it’s because of the pitch of the connector on the bottom of the JLF. The pitch of the JLF header is 2.5mm whereas the pitch of the connector on Cerberus is 2.54mm (long story), it’s almost dead on, but that slight increase may cause the DOWN pin to require a slight shift to the left to compensate. This won’t always be the case, but obviously there are times when this will need to be done, it’s a really minor thing to do and just takes a bit of trial and error as you’ve stated.
Using Mistcore’s pictures for this little excerpt.
Basically you should be able to take a peek at the connector on the bottom of the Cerberus, specifically the DOWN position after pushing the boards together a bit (just a bit of force) and seeing where it’s pressing into the plastic of the connector, then simply adjust the 360 DOWN pin accordingly.
As for the zip ties, I may get some longer ones and include them in packaging as a final step. The friction lock of the connectors should be plenty but hey, can’t hurt :p.
Glad to see you’re up and running! Tell your friends!
This was my solution to installing the Cerberus successfully.
The JLF connector was rubbing up against that white guide, so I snipped the side of the guide.
All inputs tested out fine in both modes, and it’s working great.
Now I can move on to customizing the look of my stick!
Just curious, how long does shipping usually take? I’m trying to order one within the next few days to get ready for Persona 4 (since I think I’ll be getting it for PS3).
