I’d be glad to help, but I hesitate on this one for 2 reasons:
i need the length
i’m a total newbie in electronics, i fear i might do something wrong and screw my joystick forever
i don’t see how the line noise could be a software problem: ain’t that the kind of thing that is more hardware-related ? And since it seems to happen to a lot of Windows 8 users … looks like it’s indeed software-related. Maybe some Windows 8 users can confirm they have no issue ? That would help convince me to do the cuting thing, but if no one can make it work on Windows 8 it has to be something else.
OK that’s 3 reasons.
Hope you find a solution one way or another…
I asked on twitter real quick a while ago, and a couple users reported no problems, it’s why I asked for more due diligence from users experiencing said issues as I’m a bit in the blind right now. The fact that you can’t swap over to 360 is what is triggering me to think it’s more than software related, because when you force 360 mode it literally just hands the USB over, there is no delay in any of that so it’s a direct connection which seems to just stop working after the dual mod.
I don’t have windows 8 because I think it’s a crap operating system, but I’ll try to track down a few leads on it and if I can get a win8 machine for a week to play with I can try to evaluate the issue better.
So after making a group order on arcade parts, one of my buddies who wanted a Cerberus realized he didn’t have enough for his portion of the order, so instead of cancelling the order, we’ve agreed I’ll pay for it and keep it instead.
So looks like I gotta figure out how to change the firmware on it XD.
(What I’m hoping to achieve can be found on my last post here): [details=Spoiler]
[/details]
I’ve looked into the phreakmods website, and it looks like I’ll need to finish soldering the board to my controller’s inputs (including L3 and R3 to LS and RS), hook everything up to the new USB, and then I can plug it in via USB to update the firmware. Again though, I’m concerned my official wired 360 pad isn’t common ground, and could cause issues. Can anyone confirm this?
As for firmware modding itself, I understand this is very intensive and probably outside my field, but I’ve got a few friends I can ask to help me out with my goal. So I’m mostly just double checking the hardware steps I should go through before arriving at this point.
Just finished an install. Now im getting the unrecognized device issue when plugging to a pc. I cant force it to pc, ps3 or xbox mode on pc. The only mode that works when connected to a pc is bootloader mode. Xbox mode works perfect when connected to the xbox.
What I dont understand is that before I soldered all the wires I tested the cerberus by soldering just the usb cable to it and my laptop picked it up and installed the cerberus drivers instantly. I was also able to see the cerberus as one of the controller options in SF4.
Please help
Win7 64bit (all updates)
macbook pro retina late 2013
^ I have the same problem with my Cerberus boards. On their own they work fine but when dual modded my computers refuse to recognise it despite working fine on console. As far as I know there hasn’t been a fix suggested for this yet.
EDIT: Why do you have so many GND and VCC wires attached? Clean that stuff up.
I connected the additional ground and vcc wires because the it wouldnt detect my xbox pcb otherwise. I have the ground going to the kgnd (home button), led ground and xbox usb ground. For the vcc I have it splitting out to the leds, and xbox pcb. Maybe I can just remove the grounds going to the kgnd and led’s?
I’ve yet to the test dual mod on a PS3. I hope it works. Ive done several dual mods before but this is the first time using a Cerberus. Is the problem only occurring to people using the advance install or also to others that are using the version with the connectors?
Did you test out a direct computer connection via USB soldered before or after you cut it down?
You mention bootloader mode working. Can you clarify? Did you attempt to update firmware or just see that it comes up as the bootloader in the device manager?
I tested the board after the cut. I wanted to make sure my cut was successful. Since the computer recognized the cerberus and I was able to see it in the controls configuration options in SF4 I’m assuming the cut was good.
I get the unrecognized device message when I plug it holding 1k,1p and select. If I plug it in holding start, 3 led’s light up (bootloader mode?).
I tried updating the firmware but I received an error with the atmel software, stating i needed additional files which I will look for tonight. I do remember though, that the cerberus came up as “cerberus 1.01” when i saw it on the SF4 options menu, isnt that the latest firmware?
Under device manager, its detected as “unknown device” regardless of what mode I connect with.
Only 3 LEDs light up? No, all 4 are supposed to cycle. Check to make sure you don’t have any shorts between the signals and ground, and the USB has no shorts between it’s own signals.
If the bootloader mode is either cycling very slowly or the LEDs are permanent, that means there’s a signal noise problem.
I would suggest if you have another, shorter USB cable you can cut the end off and test against, that would be good. If you find it works, you can try to remove all those extra ground spots, just keep the one going to the USB spot on the 360 PCB, and then solder the shield cable to the ground position to ensure the USB shielding is there.
I have suggested a fix, shorten the cable or try an entirely different one that isn’t crazy long. Nobody with with these issues is trying this out for some reason.
L3/R3 out of the box no, I’d have to drum up a firmware to support it unless gummo has one already.
The wired 360 official pads are not common ground AFAIK. The little afterglow ones are, which are what @gummowned uses. I would recommend not moving forward with the mod until you find a 360 controller that is common ground such as the afterglow or simply a fightpad.
Also, LS and RS direct to an official controller won’t do anything, they’re for using with the 360 based arcade sticks that have the LS/RS swap ability such as the MCZ TE.
firmware isn’t open source, so we’d have to cook you up a firmware to do what you want and you’d upload it over USB via the FLIP program.
Oh! Perfect! I’ve got TWO afterglow wired 360 pads! I can rip one of those out instead! (And it’ll mean I can have a dedicated button for lights on/off really easy too). Wow, that actually works out perfectly.
Aww, that’s unfortunate. I’ll keep L3 and R3 disconnected for now, but if you guys do happen to make a build, let me know, and I’ll wire in the buttons and update the firmware.
Overall though, this is looking a lot more promising than I originally thought it would! Thanks!
Okay, I cleaned up the wiring and used a different USB cable from an old Madcatz SE I gutted. Still no dice. Then, I used a cable that was about 10", tore off the tip and soldered. Below are the results:
