D’oh >_< I didn’t realize it was only for the newer sticks.
I’ll take care of that! 
I’ve got a V.S., a Pro, and an MLG stick and will gladly point out assembly differences and the like.
I hope the MLG stick will work, know anything about those bits?
I’d imagine the MLG stick should work, the rule of thumb is that if the PCB has a KGND spot it will work. The only exception is the brawlsticks, which will not. An install video would be crazy appreciated.
On another note, dropping off the parts today. Hopefully I should see the completed boards early next week, unless somehow I timed shit exact and they’ll get done by Friday… I’m not holding my breath though.
Yep, had to pick one and run with it this time. Again, not opposed to swapping (would actually prefer that) if you can find a modder to do the soldering for you. I’d like to see you on the latest hardware for sure. The board doesn’t have to be cut down for that either, it’s just one option.
Wait that was me Phreak? I have the hidden tech under my hood now? lol Once I get my stick from my friend and do some testing I’ll update you on how it working out!
Also shouts to the Tech guys in general who were there at evo , again another evo , another year hanging with them all and supporting them in some form.
Phreak we need more info on that consolized CPS setup with ST that was GDLK! and already reserved a spot in my wallet
UD-CPS2, undamned has a thread for it here in Tech Talk.
I’ve been using the stick pretty heavily for the last few weeks and had zero issues. 3 Screws should be plenty to hold it in place. I even let my 1.5 year old have at it and he pulls on it, even stands on the damn thing and haven’t had an issue.
I had a thought. Would there be enough clearance in an SE if you flipped the PCB/Cerberus combination around with the Cerberus facing the top of the stick?
Yup check undamned’s thread, that’s his project and it’s sweeeeeeeeeeet.
There’s probably clearance even without requiring that. I know people put in TEasy Strike boards into their SE’s with only having to dremel things like the MIC standoff, and that was ultimately a far more space requiring mod.
It’s moot though, the Cerberus doesn’t work with the SE PCB anyway without soldering. TE-S and newer only are compatible.
Great work, nice product.
I have a Soul Caliber TE I want to dual mod. Just to be sure, if I install this I would have to permanently leave off one screw of the JLF mounting backet? Is that bad? Would it be possible to use a shallower screw instead?
this looks amazing! where do i go to order one of these?
It’s possible to swap it out for a flat head and not pan head screw I’m sure, truthfully I don’t entirely know how much of a difference it will make since I don’t have one on hand. As TrixWon said though it’s stable with only using 3. I’ve had people ask me to swap their buttons and stuff to find they’re rocking 2 screws with no problem.
Hang tight for another week or two. Boards are being fabricated and assembled now. Parts are actually being dropped off today
Too bad it covers that pretty white PCB from the EVO stick, but I’ll be watching out for this one. 3 sticks waiting to be modded and no time to do it!
This one is going into the evo stick, but of course it’ll be the cut up super wired version~
What exactly needs to be soldered on the board? I know someone who could do the soldering for me. Or if it isn’t too difficult I could pick up an iron and do it myself.
Since this isn’t compatible with the original SF4 round 1 TE and the TEasy is no longer in production would I be correct in assuming the go-to solderless mod would be the Kitty? Just looking for the simplest possible dual-mod for my stick (only really need 360/PS3/PC compatibility)
It would be the same as a normal dual mod, so basically the buttons/directionals, power/ground, and then the 360 PCB USB signals, with the outbound usb cable still coming from the Cerberus board. Although you could still use the IDC terminals for the USB and just solder the others. I’m sure someone will pop up what they’ve done with a direct solder method shortly after I send out my first wave. I may even cut one down/install it in that fashion just to show what’s possible.
Yep, for solderless on round 1/2 sticks Kitty is still your best option.
Quick update: ETA from the assembly house is early next week, so give or take a few days for me to complete assembly and testing and these should start being available end of next week.
This would work fine with the SE sticks right? They have such similarities to the TE sticks.
Sadly no, not without soldering. The PCB is differently measured than the new ones.
I may come up with a way to interface to the older PCBs with an adapter or something, just can’t do it right now.
I definitely see myself using this when I ever around to dual-modding my stick. Too bad I’m scared to death over the thought of cutting the cord. >_>
looks good - and simple (^_^) just how i like it. i didn’t see a price…?