Brook Universal PCB + MC Cthulhu PCB in one Joystick Case?

Hello everyone, quick question. I’ve had a Brook Universal joystick I had made awhile back (still working perfectly), and I’d like to now if it’s possible to add a MC Cthulhu PCB to the same joystick (without having to run another set of wires to each button and joystick).

Also would like to replace the USB Neutrik Pass-through I have in it with a RJ-45 Neutrik and then have everything go through the MC Cthulhu and then I can have multiple RJ-45 to Game Console cables (USB to RJ45, SNES to RJ45, Dreamcast to RJ45, etc…).

Is this possible?

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Totally possible. You’ll need to run the USB lines through an IMP (or whatever variation is available nowadays) or DPDT switch, though.

Where can I get an IMP. Can the IMP do USB to RJ45 so I can use https://arcadeshock.com/products/neutrik-ne8fdp-ethercon-rj45-panel-mount-with-d-shape-silver-metal-housing

Not sure where to get IMPs anymore, seeing as how GodLikeControls is no longer taking orders.

An IMP won’t do USB to RJ-45. You’ll need to route your USB lines ONLY through the IMP from both the MCC and the UFB before you connect it to the Neutrik, and the other lines from the MCC for other legacy platforms will go straight to the Neutrik.

OK, yeah looking around on Paradise Arcade, and Focus Attack and various sites, it looks like it’s no longer available for this IMP board.

So let me ask you this question since what you’re saying is I’m still going to need two different Neutrik Adapters no matter what. Can I wire it so that the joystick and pushbuttons all go to the Brook Universal Board via the screw terminals. Then inside those screw terminals have it daisy chain off that by adding another wire to go from their to the screw terminals in the Cthulhu?

I assume it would basically send the signal to both, but will only function with the one that is on. Here’s my very crude MS Paint drawing of what I would do. Hoping this make sense.

First, do note that you need to join ground and VCC between both boards when doing a dual mod, even if you used two separate jacks. Second, you can make this work with a single RJ45 jack and a DPDT. What you need to do is open up the RJ45 cable going from the Cthulhu to the Neutrik jack and tap into the D+ and D- lines. Solder the sides still connected to the MCC to the points one side of the DPDT switch, solder the lines going to the neutrik to the center points, then solder the D+ and D- lines from the UFB to the points on the other end of the switch. You want the D+ and D- lines each on independent rows, i.e. keep all the + lines on top and the - lines on the bottom. Since you’ve already been looking into the MCC, I’m assuming you know how to make or where to buy USB to RJ45 cables.

If you do decide to just go with separate jacks, never connect both at the same time.

Holy crap @PresidentCamacho, that was wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy above my technical understanding. No offense to you but I really have no clue what was just said. Sorry.

So are you saying to connect the VCC (I’m looking at it right now and nothing is screwed into it) to each other (from Brook to Cthulhu), and then daisy chain the wiring between the screw terminals, and then wire each board to their own Neutrik Jack? Or are you saying I shouldn’t do what I pictured above?

What’s a DPDT? I’d have to open up the Neutrik Jack and solder that? I don’t feel comfortable with my soldering skills so not sure I want to do that.

Side note, I would never connect both to two different machines at the same time.

No, you don’t need two separate outputs.

I took the time to make a decent-looking image in MS Paint just so that this could be used as reference for lots of people later on.

Possible dumb question but I’ve never done a dual mod are those button signals crimped together from the two boards is that how it would work?

You mention a switch if I decided to go the IMP route how does that switch between the boards?

So take for example the X button. Can I just do this? Or why wouldn’t this work?

Technically since the wires are touching each other connected in the Brook, would feed it over to the Cthulhu correct when the Brook wasn’t on? And I just do that for every button and ground and everything.

  1. Yes, both boards have the buttons signal connected together.
  2. Depends on what you get; “I don’t know what the kids are doing these days”. :slight_smile: Check the instructions to the IMP board that you get.

Yes.
Remember that Vcc and Ground MUST be connected between the two boards at all time, even if it’s not the board you’re currently using.

OK so I see on the Brook the VCC terminal available, but I don’t have an additional GROUND available. The way it is wired in my custom Joystick I bought, the 4 punches (Square, Triangle, L1 and R1) go to one of the dedicated GROUND terminals available, then the 4 kicks (Circle, Cross, L2 and R2) have a GROUND associated and wired to it. The Start, Select, Home have it’s own GROUND wired to it, and then the Joystick (Up, Down, Left and Right) have it’s own GROUND plugged in.

So there are no additional GROUNDs available. Unless you’re saying don’t forget to wire those over from the Brook to the Cthulhu, which of course I would do.

BTW, I really appreciate everyone’s help. I really am a novice at all of this. I’m sorry.

  1. It’s all the same Ground line.
  2. I have no idea what you’re referring to with your second sentence, though.

My bad, sorry. I guess what you’re saying is wire over everything from one board to the other including the GROUNDs that all associate with the buttons and joystick. And then do the VCC as well.

And since I’m going to use two different NEUTRIK adapters, then I don’t needs this DTDP thing since they’re not going to share the same NEUTRIK adapter.

You only need to run one ground line between them, doesn’t need to be for every signal line. The ground connection you’re tapping can come from anywhere in the chain as well. And yes, you can skip the DPDT switch with two different jacks.

Good day to you all guys!

I am planning to do the same as OP to 2 of my sticks. Both are utilizing the UFB and wanted to parallel have the MCC for retro consoles compatibility.
I am a noob though when comes to modding and I really don’t have anyone to assist in further as I live in Greece, Athens.

I would be grateful if any assistance can be given for accomplishing the task "myself"
or an arrangement for such modding by sending you over my sticks
or even proposing someone willingful to do the job (preferably in Europe).

Btw @FreedomGundam if you could reupload quoted photo for reference and educational purposes, it would be wonderful.

Thanks!

I’ll reupload the image when I get home. Photobucket has decided to be stupid recently, so ~10 years worth of images that I’ve posted on forums are now broken.

@tisfo

Here we go.

https://i.imgur.com/jvc8aU4.png

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Thank you so much! Your diagram is pretty straight forward.
I ve faced some issue with photobucket as well… Unbelievable.

But I am still skeptical with it - i am a defo noob and never soldered before,
so I think this is not the right project for me to “learn”, although seems easy.

Btw do you happen to know anyone who’s willing to take over this mod within Europe? (against payment ofcourse)

Pm me if this publicly cannot be discussed…

Really appreciate your help

@tisfo

It’s never too late to learn to solder (just make sure to wear eye protection and work in a well-ventilated area).

If you’re looking for someone in your area to do the mod work for you, you can see the list of available modders here: