Probably none. You should be able to remove the existing board and cut/strip the wires connected to it for the Lever and buttons and connect it to this boards screw terminals.
No problems. Three days and they still haven’t fixed it!
Also, I think a few folks are doing installs when they arrive and plan on taping it. I plan on upgrading at least one NON-PANZER with these boards. I’ll film it and create a video so everyone sees just how easy this is.
LEDs yes, start/select on touch panel, yes. Rest of the touchpanel functions (tournament lock, button re-assignments, etc.) no, only the Hori PCB can do it.
This may sound like a dumb question but… would this thing work with a Hitbox? I just got one of the new PS4 ones, but realised that I’m still going to be playing 3S on 360 for the foreseeable future. I know that the specs list “SOCD cleaning” but would it function exactly like a hitbox is supposed to?
Also another dumb question, would this work with one of those consolised ST CPS2 boards? With the aforementioned Hitbox I didn’t get anything.
I have weird needs, I like the idea of playing without a stick, but while I’m personally planning on going way into SFV on PS4 most of my friends plan on continuing playing ST and 3S like they always have. Maybe in the long run I’ll buy a PS3/360 Hitbox if the modding idea doesn’t work.
My unqualified opinion is that it likely will as the UD-CPS2 has native support for PS3 and XBOX 360 controls. Might want to ask Mr. Grissom if he wouldn’t mind doing an optest.
I can test mine with one of my UD-USB. I think the first answer is MAYBE. It depends on what the Brook sees the decoder as. If it sees it as a PS3 compatible port, it will work. I know my HORI FC4 works fine in PS3 mode, and not properly in PS4 mode (one input is always triggered).
There any tutorial out there for idiots like myself on how you would replace a PCB like this? I have zero soldering skills, at that point I’d have to look for modders in my area.
The board is pretty much solder free. The only thing you might need to solder would be the USB cable, but you can easily replace it with a USB A-B cable.
to install this all you need is a mini flathead screw driver and maybe a wire stripper. you can buy prestripped wires from some arcade part providers if you dont wanna salvage them from your original sticks’ pcb
Wish it came with the connectors for these player LEDs and the DP/LT/RT switch, then id be able to fully use every button on my og VLX with no type of soldering needed. I guess I’ll have to learn how to solder now… this board is too good to pass on.
I doubt it, It doesn’t make any sense for them to make their firmware open source as many have proven that open source equals exploited for their needs. It was not advertised as such and doesn’t make sense from a business perspective imho.
I mean, it’s still simple to edit it to do whatever you want, it’s just a pain in the ass. Are they concerned with knock-off boards being sold or something?
Additionally, would it handle the Up input (giving more priority), properly like a Hitbox? For example, in USF4 with Guile, you can hold the Down button, then while still holding it, hit K and Up and you’ll get a flash kick, without needing to release the Down button.
And does the SOCD cleaning work in the same way as on a Hitbox?