@ryu81 Yes you need gnd from the turbo panel.
I was going to use the one from the player LEDs as a common ground. I think that will work.
I’m newbie sry for asking this question,how to do it?
Just solder a wire to USB-VCC on the turbo board and connect it to VCC on the Brook Board. Then solder a wire to GND on the turbo board and connect it to any GND on the Brook board.
you show me which point exactly with pic will great if possible.
mark point for solder wire
Flip the board over and it’s where the usb cable went, top is vcc and bottom 2 are gnd
Installed a UFB in a HITBOX (XBO) version today. Remove the existing board, solder the USB to the USB points on the Brook UFB, clip the soldered in wires on the original board and screw in the rest. The Brook UFB even fits (sort of) with the existing mounting posts. You just install it at an angle so the top left and bottom right holes are used.
The red and the black one
you don’t need to take the plastic off
the make everything clear
the red wire connect VCC in UFB and black wire connect with any GND in UFB,after that home and turbo will be working? or just turbo? I can remove old two wires https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1570228/turbo%20panel.PNG ?
sorry I asking too much.
i bought some LED sequins that i can possibly replace the TE2 power LED and player LEDs with – esp since the player LEDs are on the TE2 secondary board, and their pinouts are anodes, it seems i can’t directly wire them to brook UFB’s P1 P2 P3 P4 solder joints. i’ll see what i can do to get this up and running, and show you what i did for TE2 so others with TE2 and UFB can follow suit, or give me suggestions.
I would wire turbo to the touch key, no need for turbo. yes red any vcc, black any gnd. Remove what wires? you need 4 wires total= vcc, gnd, turbo, home.
So I finally got my Brook Boards today and realized the jack for the USB was a 2.0 B jack and I bought a 3.0 B Jack USB Wire to realize they’re very different.
Now I’m planning to solder off the USB Jack, cut the cable to reveal the color coated wires, and was wondering where the color coated wires in the USB Cable would solder to (e.g. R, W, B, G)
No need to desolder the jack. There’s a set of USB points you can use. They’re the set of 4 labeled “V”, “D-”, “D+” and “G” in the J6-1 area.
Remember that all USB cables have a color code standard. The Red wire is VCC (goes to V), the White is Data- (goes to D-), the Green is Data+ (goes to D+) and the Black is GND (goes to G).
EDIT: Brain farted and realized you said you had a 3.0 cable. Not sure if they have more than 4 wires, but it’s probably best to ignore what I just said since I might be wrong lol
Yeah I just cut a 3.0 Cable open and it has Eight Wires. The Color Coated (Red, Green, Black, and White) Along with an additional Purple, Orange, Yellow, and Light Blue
Thinking of just ordering a 3.0 B Female Connector to 2.0 B Male Connector if they exist lol.
I thought using a 3.0 cable would be sick since it’s the new fad but realized it made extra work lol
EDIT: Found this http://www.overclock.net/t/1340389/guide-how-to-solder-your-own-usb2-0-3-0-cables
Yes, i know. I took the screen shot. You are linking to my dropbox.
Don’t remove those wires. You need those 2, plus vcc and gnd.
So I had my board working. I then tried to run the firmware update and got an update failed message. Now neither my windows or xbox one recognized the joystick. Is there anyway to recover from this?
Some more information since that above post was vague.
So I had my board working. I then tried to run the firmware update and got an update failed message. I tried the update again but I still got an update failed. I then tried to double check that the board was still functional by using it in the xbox one. I plugged it in, and the buttons seem to work. I loaded killer instinct (by starting the game with the joystick). Once I got to the “press menu” screen the joystick stopped working. Now neither my windows or xbox one recognized the joystick. Is there anyway to recover from this?
The device manager shows this message:
Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)
A request for the USB device descriptor failed.
Try uninstalling the xbox one driver on your pc. If you there is an option to uninstall it from uninstall a program do that first and plug in the brook ufb and check in device manager and see if it still shows up as an xbox one controller. If it does uninstall it from the device manager and also make sure to check to delete the driver software from the device. Then download the driver from here and install.
http://support.xbox.com/ms-MY/xbox-on-windows/accessories/connect-xbox-one-controller-to-pc
Then try the firmware upgrade again. This is what I had to do in order to get xbox one side of the board working properly.
It seems that some ways the driver is installed doesn’t work right because other ways of installing the driver didn’t work for me such as through windows update etc…
Thanks for clearing that up for me guys. Looked like it was a good thing i asked, lol.
And thanks for that link DJ Divine. I’ve been searching all around to find something like that!