No Capture button for Switch as far as I know. The “Switch” mode is really just the Wii-U Pokken Controller, which is Switch-compatible, but obviously has no Capture button. EDIT: I’m told (as per below) that the PS Touchpad button is the “Capture” button. I stand corrected!
I don’t believe that there’s ANY multi-console retro PCB that supports N64.
Your proposed solution wouldn’t work for the mapping switch, because holding K1 on startup forces Wii-U/Switch mode while holding K2 on startup forces OG Xbox mode. You’re thinking of combining both the auto-detect (for SNES selection) and the force-mode (for mapping), which won’t work.
I really wouldn’t count on any support for the YBA layout. I would be VERY surprised if anyone ever cares to support it. You’re better off doing something on your own about it.
What do you mean by “consolized Virtual Boy”? Regardless, Virtual Boy support is probably at the bottom of any aftermarket PCB-maker’s barrel.
Not a big deal if it doesn’t do it or if it’s too hard to do it. I just wanted to see if was even possible before I asked Stan to do it. This is not designed to use the 18th capture button I guess I’ll have to stream games instead of you system capture.
Just like the phrase “black lives matter” is not meant to imply that non-black lives don’t matter, (it’s saying that’s the place where the societal bleeding is happening so take care of that first.), other old games work well with joysticks too, but chances are you’re not going to buy a joystick just to improve a schmup or platformer unless you’re already buying it for fighter anyway.
I assume that getting the brook retro and other similar multi consoles just need programming and updates to understand new stuff. (Plus a physical adapter for the said system). I heard the main limits of these multi console Fight PCBs is it has eight channels of datan That is the reason why Neo Geo, Genesis, and 3DIb o not work easily with RJ45 based retro adapters. so if there are less than eight channels of data going through a Wii Classic Controller or an N64 controller, it’s just a matter of updating the program and also making physical adapters.
As for the YBA mode, a lot of the non fighting games are a lot better with YBA with Joysticks than BAR. The five earliest popular examples are Mega Man X, Super Ghouls and Ghosts, Castlevania 4, Contra 4, and Super Mario World. It’s about the index vs. ring finger being main and finger positioning.
I know there are ways to program the firmware. and I know there are extra buttons that are not used for the main controller on the Super NES mode. (Super NES only has four directions four face buttons, two shift buttons, and two auxiliary buttons. The seventh or eighth main button AKA 3P and 3K can be used to swap between YBA and BAR modes.
An interesting fact is that the original original Toodles multi console Cthulhu. add like different turbo graphics modes and different NES modes. just wonder why wouldn’t be just as easy to add two separate SNES modes for YBA and BAR.
By the way would the N64 and the Wii Classic Controller be considered popular enough we’re if it were easy enough there be adapters for it? Between Mortal Kombat Trilogy and Killer Instinct gold on N64, and Tatsunoco versus Capcom on Wii plus SNES mini games like Street Fighter 2, might make it worth someone’s while to do it.
I thought with the recent consolation of the Virtual Boy the might be unusually high interest in the past year. Also Street Fighter 2 New Challengers was released as an unreleased but finished game, but the Virtual Boy default controller has basically two action buttons and a left and right d-pad and two shift buttons. It seems like a weird default controller to play Street Fighter.
By the way, I got my own ways of dealing with this so, no one do it just for me. I’m still willing to pay Stan and Stan is still willing to accept the pay and do work for pad hacking a Wii Classic Controller model 2, and an N64 controller. I’m good.
Hi! New to the scene but I want to hit the ground running. Was wondering the UFB PCB can be installed into a Razer Panthera EVO Stick with the EZ MOD? If so can anyone point me in the right direction to do so.
I’m thinking about buying a Universal Fighting Board, but the diagrams at Brook’s website confuse me. What do the solder pionts labeled “J2” do? Also, I’m confused by the J9 and J6-1 solder points. From what I can tell, J6-1 is for USB, but the board already has the J6 USB connector, so it appears that J6-1 would be redundant. What would J6-1 be used for? Also, what do the VCC terminals do?
Also, I’m planning to buy it from Paradise Arcade Shop, but I’m not sure whether to buy it with or without the soldered headers. If I buy it WITHOUT the soldered headers, would it be possible for me to stick the tips of wires through the holes and solder them on the back of the PCB?
I think J2 is for different SOCD modes. I wouldnt really bother with it since the default mode is the one used in tournament if im not mistaken.
J9 is just a 20 pin alternative for all your inputs in case you have a a 20 pin connector instead of individual wires to go into the screw terminals. J6-1 is also just alternative USB points in case a modder wants to use them for whatever reason.
Yes you can through hole solder instead of using headers, its just more work.
Another thing that confused me is that Brook’s website says that it’s compatible with the Wii-U. As I understand it, the Wii-U Pro controllers are wireless, and they only use USB to charge. The only USB controller for the Wii-U that I know of is the Pokken Tournament controller, but to my knowledge that controller isn’t compatible with any other games for the Wii-U. Is the UFB compatible with any Wii-U games other than Pokken Tournament for Wii-U?
I just noticed that in the diagrams at Brook’s website, there are multiple terminals on the PCB that are labeled “GND,” and that different sets of buttons/switches are connected to different ground terminals. (The d-pad buttons are separate from the face buttons, for example.) Is it absolutely necessary to wire the board like that? If I connect the board to a joystick with common grounds for all switches, and instead plug all of the buttons’ grounds into the same “GND” terminal on the PCB, will I run into any issues?
On a common ground pcb like the Brook, you only need to tap into one GND point and daisy chain from there. The multiple GND points on the board are for convenience.
I’ve been attempting to get the turbo feature to work, but I’ve been having trouble. I soldered the positive terminal of the LED to the leftmost hole in the J8 group, and soldered the negative terminal on the next hole over, as shown in the diagram at Brook’s official website. I used the other two holes for the turbo button. However, when I plug the PCB in to the console and push the turbo button, nothing seems to happen. The turbo LED never turns on. I’ve tried it on my Playstation 3 and my Xbox 360, but nothing happens. Am I doing something incorrectly?
I am having issues with my ufb and my nintendo switch. Whenver i plug my ufb into the nintendo switch in dock mode, the power of the ufb dies. The blue light goes off. When i plug it in via usb c dongle in hand held mode, it works fine. Its almost like when its in docked mode, theres not enough power for the ufb to work. Help. This just started happening. It used tk work fine in dock mode