Windows 10, as far as I’ve read, doesn’t have issues with the board as does some configs with Windows 7.
Are you using a USB A-to-B cables that are known-good data cables? Before you say “duh, of course,” I mean…have you used the ones you tried with other devices (like a printer) and confirmed data was being sent?
If so, how long are these cables? 5M/16ft+ runs can (and will) lose signal before those signals get to the target device.
Does the on-board led light up upon connection?
Have you grounded everything properly?
Take a photo of the connection setup. Post it on Imgur, and share the link with us here.
i used two working usb cables. one is 10ft the other is 18". the board does light up. everything is grounded properly (chances of me making an error all three times i re-wired are pretty slim, especially if it’s just screw terminal). i have tried using multiple wires, switches and buttons, all to no avail. i’ve disconnected everything, boxed it up, and put it in for an rma already. i’ve seen a lot of praise for brook in this thread, but for me, it’s a very bad first experience with a product and company that doesn’t respond to tweets or emails. i’ve used buttons from a working fightstick and could only deduce that it is in fact a faulty board.
Wait. So you’ve done so much troubleshooting that you’ve already deduced that your wiring skills are infallible, and that the issue is merely a faulty board.
You already submitted an RMA.
So you basically just came here just to bitch about their support not being timely…
Why waste the time of people who wanted to help you then?!
so i went back and tried to wire the original board with another set of wires and i was able to update the firmware. three sets of daisy chains i bought were bunk it seems.
not working again. when i was able to update the firmware i wired in two ground wires individually. now that i daisy chained the ground, it’s not working again. possible that i have four faulty ground daisy chains?? forgive the mess, this is a temporary housing for the fightstick while i wait for my order, and so i dont want to trim the wires until i know the length i’ll need in my final fightstick case (currently using a gutted x-arcade case)
I still haven’t read if you tested it on windows7, ps4, snes, dreamcast, etc…
try forcing ps3 or ps4 mode on a computer, so that xinput drivers don’t fuck up things the next time.
you can do this by holding 1P (first punch, square on ps systems, X on xbox systems, Y on nintendo switch if applicable) when connecting the USB cable to your computer or 2P for ps4
I tested on windows 10 and two nvidia shield tv consoles. I wired in the select and home buttons with individual ground wires and was able to update the firmware. When I wired it back into the box with another daisy chain it will no longer allow me to update the firmware again when I press and hold select and home.
what i can’t seem to figure out, is that when i plug it in, and the system plays the peripheral connected sound (windows 10) and then immediate plays the disconnected sound. however, when i go to device manager, the board shows up as an xbox controller in the system. could i be dealing with a faulty board? btw, buddy with the other ufb is gone, so i can’t test with the second ufb board.
Ok jasen, could you offer a theory as to why when I wire in individual grounds, I was able to update the firmware. But when I wire everything up with all the buttons, and a daisy chain, i can’t get it to enter firmware update mode (select and home). I can’t get any inputs to register
i just tried on my nintendo switch as well, and nothing. so far i’ve tried it on a windows 10 pc, two windows 10 laptops, two nvidia shield tvs, and a nintendo switch. im tempted to order a 20 point harness from FA to try with this board. this is extremely frustrating.
I’ve tried four different daisy chains. What are the odds that all four are bad? I’ll take a photo later. Like I said I haven’t trimmed the wires to length because this is only a temporary enclosure.
or 2P for ps4