Just checked on my xbox one…works like a champ, well, for up/down/left/right/select anyway. Start doesn’t work, but that’s a common ground issue, stupid bread board. And stupid windows, now I’m wondering if it works in win 7 now, but that laptop is downstairs, and its late and I’m lazy. Thanks for the pointer, and if I figure out the windows problem I’ll let you know!
Not sure about win 7 yet, will check it tonight, but after I get the rest of the buttons wired over
Same problem in Win10 but in Win7 and all console work perfectly.
Mine worked fine in Win7. I’ll check the production board Tonight.
got mine on saturday and will wire it up tomorrow. EXCITE
Really bummed - was supposed to get my order today. Apparently someone forged my signature and has my package from Arcade Shock 
Having the same issue with my windows 10 box. However works perfectly on my win10 Asus laptop. May have to do with USB 3.0 vs 2.0. Gonna do a test via a USB 2.0 hub and see if that solves the issue. zippy knows about it as well…
So, digging around a bit online. At work so I can’t test this, but, it looks like win 10 isn’t as gung ho about installing new devices that are supposed to be plug and play. So, it will show up in device manager as an unknown usb device/controller, but you will need to right click --> update driver and manually browse for the xbox one/360 driver to get it to install correctly. Again, I try to check tonight, but if someone else could try, that would be great.
Well the good news is I got the PCBs. Mailman was lazy (forged my signature) and also put the package in the wrong mailbox…
wow, report his ass. That’s basically mail fraud.
Got my board today, wired it up (wiring it was very simple, just as easy as the Cthulhu multi-console board that I was using previously), plugged it into my PC… and it didn’t work. Connected as an Xbox One controller, but then disappeared after about 15 seconds. The blue power LED stayed on the whole time. Any idea on how to fix or troubleshoot? I am on Windows 10.
Edit: looks like other people in this thread are having the same issue. I tried updating my controller drivers and that did not work.
I’m pretty new to all this, so could I just get a verification that I understand everything correctly? I plan on putting my universal board in an Xbox One TE2.
- Daisy chain the grounds for all of my buttons (4 punch, 4 kick, start and back). Attach that wire and all of the signal wires to their clearly-marked homes on the new PCB.
- Attach the ground and four signal wires for my stick to their clearly marked homes on the new PCB.
- Find the Xbox home button input in the control panel wire bundle and attach that to… its clearly-marked home on the new PCB.
- Ignore everything else, if I don’t care about lock/LED functionality?
- Plug ‘n’ play with any old USB A-to-B cable, and enjoy basic stick functionality on all consoles and PC?
God damn I hate Windows 10. This is ONE reason I refuse to upgrade. No issues on Windows 7 when I tested this. The Blue LED is a power indicator only. If the stick is plugged into a USB port, its ON.
Yes. 
Rad. Thanks a bunch, Jasen. So I don’t need to do anything else with the 12 control panel wires? Just make sure I have the home button (#3, from a post earlier in this thread) and ground (#12)?
Yeah, its seriously that easy. 8 Buttons and 4 Joystick Inputs = 12 Signal Wires. Daisy Chain the grounds to any of the MULTIPLE GND connections on the board and you are good to go!
Don’t forget SEL/BACK, START, and HOME/GUIDE Same concept here as well.
Jasen
Alright quick update for the night.
I tried both USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports on my surface (docking station…I love this thing!) to no avail. It keeps showing up for about 10 seconds and disappearing. When it does come up, it is listed as an Xbox one controller. I also tried on my win 7 laptop, and it just says its an unrecognized usb device and won’t search for drivers. So, I tried what I posted earlier and tried to manually update the driver on win 10, and it went from an xbox controller to unrecognized device…so…worse.
Plugged into a PS3 to test (don’t have anything to test on a next gen console yet) and button checked everything in SF3. Everything works great, minus the fact I’m way out of practice. The only thing I haven’t tested is using a USB type-B cable, as I soldered in a cable to the brook board. Any other thoughts?
Google search XBOX ONE Controller drivers and install them first. M$ added it to Windows update, but the BROOK aboard don’t trigger the search.
Alright got mine up and running on Windows 10. Here is a pic of how I installed it in the TE round 1 case. I used the existing boards so I didn’t have to redo the wiring for the buttons like they show in the instructions with daisy chaining the ground. I got everything working (even the xbox button) except for things that needed to be soldered. I might do that later, but I don’t really use turbo or directional pad ever.
It did not work at first on windows 10. I plugged it in but SF4 didn’t read movements. I shut down SF4, unplugged then re-plugged back in then relauched SF4 and it worked. As long as it’s coming up as an xbox controller in device manager you should be good to go. You can also try selecting the driver yourself as either xbox or xbox one controller and see if that works.
Couple of things to note. Test along the way. It’s easy to mix wires up after they are cut (but you can refer back to the original boards to see what goes where). The Brook board will work with as little as one ground and one button attached so you can test as you go. I did have to drill a bigger hole in the case to get the A-B USB cable head to fit. Took approximately 3 hours mainly due to not having a proper stripping tool and a striped screw that literally took 30 minutes to get off (thanks madcatz). If I had proper tools this would take an hour tops, minus the drilling that was kind of a pain. All in all they made this super easy with this screw in board. I highly recommend this over buying a new stick. $80 and one hour of your life to have a board that works on every console vs $220 for a new stick that works on only one.
I still haven’t tested on PS4, but it worked fine on XBOX 360, ONE, and PC so I’m sure it will work as advertised. I may be crazy but I actually think it feels more responsive than the original madcatz board did so lag is not an issue with this board.
[img]http://s9.postimg.org/yfiev8r8b/20160202_003538.jpg[/img]