@oDHAOSo
Wiil add combo keys to select two types SOCD outputting. Coming Soon
I wrote an explanation up earlier in the thread but hereās the skinny:
- The more āstuffā plugged into a wall outlet, the more current it draws.
- The AC/DC power conversion circuits arenāt fast enough to account for AC power droop (i.e. voltage temporarily lowers when a load is started) so DC currents go down during these changes.
- The USB ports (5VDC) current goes down, the board browns out. I.e. it shuts down to a sleep state sort of disconnecting from the console.
Ultimately, people are plugging WAAAY too many things into a single wall outlet. Anything more than 2 monitors and 2 PS4s per wall outlet is going to cause problems. Especially with people plugging sticks in and unplugging them constantly. Everything on that outlet (and surge protector) is interlinked electronically. One thing changes over hereā¦ it affects that stuff over there. The higher the load (the more devices) the less DC power available across the devices. My testing on the board pre launch showed that these are not power hungry boards (about 50mA during use) which is only 10% of the rated capacity of USB. The one thing to note with the Kaimana setups though is that I saw currents up to 470 mA with all lights on which provides less margin (and within 5% tolerances of 500mA). So it makes sense that there were fewer issues with it disconnected.
Its been covered a few times here but your right on the money. the amount of consoles / monitors plugged into one power source can affect the power draw of the UFB - causing disconnects. Maybe you can wire a button to disable the LEDs?
Isnāt that more of a PS4 issue than anything else? From what I understand the PS4 is cutting power to USB ports to prevent a shutdown so shouldnāt this happen with any wired controller?
Does the same thing happen on with other controllers in that situation? What about UFB in the same situation with other consoles/PC?
I crave more data.
You can sidestep the issue with a powered USB Hub.
Good point, still craving that data though.
Its more a USB power regulation thing than a PS4 thing. I seen this happen on the PS3, Xbox 360 and a number of PC motherboards.
The USB controller on most motherboards are power stingy by nature, many will just refuse the extra watts.
When a USB device and a USB host does their handshake, the device will often request how much amps/watts it really needs.
But that request for the USB device is only for that sole PCB it self and not any attached LEDs. Most devices request a little more than they need for some extra headroom.
But when you are powering any USB Device, you are taking available power away from that motherboard. Most motherboards arenāt equipped to give more than 500ma from the USB port.
An actual USB 3.0/3.1 port can give out more power as its more robust, but its not backwards compatible with USB 1.1, only USB 2.0.
Sometimes LED controller boards take more power than it should, like in Jasenās explanation.
I have the Brook Universal board with headers, I was wondering, how do I go about wiring the L3 and R3 buttons? Is there a wire that would allow one to individually connect a button to a spot on the board. Thanks in advance.
IIRC, I used some crimped cables from adafruit and stripped some extra wires from molexās I had sitting around which would fit, but thatās usually not recommended. In general you want insulated crimped headers, or you can assemble your own JST header plug with the right spacing and put the wires in that way, or just solder onto the pins. Whatever works. Someone else here should know the spacings and pin sizes of all of the headers.
I think you can use JST PH cables. Thatās what I used on the Brook w/ Audio, I think theyāre the same spacing.
I just installed my UFB in my Hori (Kuro) VLX using the EZ mod board and it only seems to work correctly on my PS4 in SFV if, once I start the game, I unplug the stick and plug it back in again holding P2 to force it into PS4 mode.
Is this normal?
I thought it might auto detect better than this so want to check that Iām not doing something wrong. Seems to work fine on PC too.
No, that is not normal. Please update the firmware on the UFB to make sure its the most current revision.
Iāve updated the firmware - at least as far as I can tell, using the online tool from Brook. It said the firmware update was complete - can I verify the version itās using at all?
Or maybe do a manual install of the latest version somehow?
I can take pics of the install if necessary.
I donāt think soā¦ not that I recall at least. The EZ MOD board doesnāt do anything to the signals, it just adapts connectors and such so its easy to connect everything up without damaging anything.
What does it detect as on your PC? I assume you are running WIN10. You can check this by typing JOY.CPL in your āask me anythingā bar and running the app. It should populate as an XBOX ONE controller. Check to see if anything is āpressedā in the Properties area.
Thanks for helping me here Jasen 
Iāve had a look at that - it connects as an Xbox One controller and nothing is being pressed - see pics in dropbox link below. Iāve also included pics of my install as I canāt rule out my own incompetence!
Another weird thing - I tried Guilty Gear Xrd and it has the same issue - it doesnāt recognise anything unless I disconnect and then reconnect after starting the game, but thereās no need to hold P2 like SFV. Additionally in training mode it has a dizzy face after all inputs - see pic - I tried with the DS4 and it was clean but then I switched back to the stick and those faces showed up.
Could it be related to my six button configuration as L1 and L2 are disconnected? The stick seems fine in the ps4 menus. Iām running the latest PS4 firmware.
Another thought - is it worth me taking the UFB out and connecting it directly to the pc to update the firmware? If so Iād guess Iād need to wire up a couple of buttons to PS4 Home and Share to put it into the update stateā¦?
/Edit one final thing - my install was slightly more fiddly as the USB cable connector was glued to the stock board. I gently prised off enough of the glue so it would disconnect and it seems to connect fine to the EZ mod board. Thought this was worth mentioning.
It all looks square to me. As I mentioned the EZ MOD board just routes signals. If they all work fine on PC and are recognized appropriately, its likely a faulty UFB. You can test it separate from the EZ MOD board if you have some spare wire to connect to the screw terminals.
OK - Iād have to go out and buy some wire to test the board separately, and then work out how to wire the thing upā¦
I wonder if itās just worth getting a new UFB sent out to me from Arcade Shockā¦
anyone run into an issue with the UFB just flashing when plugged into ps4?
My question was mainly about where/how to acquire/create the wires necessary to make the connection between the buttons and the board. Thanks for the reply.