I mentioned this months/weeks back and many other people have asked too. They mentioned having more than one firmware version would be too hard to maintain for them which is understandable but I don’t know why they can’t just add something like this to the firmware with some key combo to toggle it…seems like it would be simple enough to do. There’s no currently competitive games on any of the consoles that brook supports that suffers from SOCD exploits, meaning there’s no chance of the brook pcb being disallowed at tournaments so there’s no reason not to give us this feature.
I noticed a new fw was released. Does this have the xbox og compatibility?
According to the changelog, no.
@AmedoS310 @Dubon @Vicko
There are two hidden functions on this version…
- PS2 backwards compatibility on PS3
- Xbox first console in 2K
I knew it !
Does firmware version 1.8 fix the timeout on PS4 version 4.00?
I ask because looking in the patch notes it doesn’t say it does like v1.6 does for PS4 v3.55.
there is no timeout if you have 1.6 already
so what’s the deal with the new firmware update then?
ah good news, cheers Vicko. I’m not sure I have that version anyway so I’ll update anyway.
A small suggest. For the patch update program, why not have a way to check what version of the firmware you have.
I’m installing the basic Brook UFB (no pre-soldered headers, I should have done my research on that first) into my Qanba Q4 and have a few questions, considering how there doesn’t seem to be a guide anywhere about the Q4 in particular. Complete newbie here.
– What’s the most efficient way to go about daisy chaining the grounds? Punch and Kick have four grounds each, yet the only daisy chain connectors I can find have three, 10, or 30-something connections (the ones listed on Focusattack, and this http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/insulated-daisy-chain-harness-with-32-crimp-connections.html), and I’d like to avoid clutter in my stick guts as much as possible. What about the cardinal directions?
– The reviews I’ve seen for the UFB say that it’s solderless unless you want to enable non-critical functions like the LEDs and Select. Yet the USB wires seem like they’re supposed to be soldered to their respective pins. Am I okay just buying this and plugging it into the header that already comes on the side of the UFB instead http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/ps360/1665-3m-black-usb-cable.html?search_query=USB&results=34 ?
– Probably the silliest question, but do I need to worry about switching the Qanba’s PlayStation/Xbox function to the appropriate console after installing this board?
Thanks in advance.
Grab the 10 chain, cut whatever isn’t used. I.e. if only 8 is used, cut the last two. For the directions, you just use your joystick harness and wire it up that way via cutting and stripping unless you don’t have one. You can use a USB-B to USB-A cable on the brook UFB. No need to worry about that last one.
For some reason my UFB isn’t working on PS4. It doesn’t even recognize the stick. It works on PC/XBOX360/PS3 but for some reason it isn’t working on PS4. Think anyone could help with this?
Nevermind figure it out. 
For some reason mine’s not working on Xbox One. I can manually set it to each console and it comes up correctly on pc, but when I try to use it on my Xbox, it lights up my stick and does nothing else. Firmware is up to date. I even tried setting it to Xbox One mode manually and it still won’t work. When i just leave it to auto detect, it turns off the “reconnect controller” for a second and then it pops back up. Please help
I don’t think bootloader does that, but clicking update takes literally 10 seconds, so just update if you’re unsure.
This specific stick has been answered at least twice in either the qanba, this, the ps3/4 fightboard, or absolute q&a thread.
Good luck.
did you press home once plugged in? also on PC if you hold 4P does it show up as an xb1 controller?
The Qanba PS3/PC rocker switch is an SPDT toggle switch that hooks to the “Switch” pin on the circuit board, nothing more. You could hook that up to “LS” pin on a pre-soldered UFB (not really needed anymore as the UFB now has LS/RS/DP “combokeys” option now, but was required in much older firmware, if you wanted analog LS availability), or TPkey if you don’t mind having it as a toggle. The Xbox 360 position connects to nothing. The PS3/PC position connects to GND. If you chose to hook the “Switch” pin to LS on the UFB, then Xbox 360 left position (No connection) would be Dpad, and PS3/PC right position (GND) would be LS.
The Qanba USB cable connects right to the UFB USB cable pins if your UFB has pre-soldered headers. Then you can use the Qanba cable stop and the cable door just like before, which will put no stress on the connector, which is why the pre-soldered UFB headers is very useful. If you choose the RJ45 jack cable, you will need to do a mod to secure the cable so you can’t yank on it internally.
For Home (Xbox/guide), select, mode and turbo buttons, you will need wire crimps if you don’t want to solder.
You can use these
Then just strip 1 end into bare cable to use into the screw terminals. If your UFB is presoldered then you can use the TPkey/R3/L3 pins and hook them to something like Select, Mode, Turbo.
Then Tpkey would function as select, back, options, etc.
You would still need the “original” select button attached to something (like one going to the screw terminals) for firmware updates, as TPkey as select won’t work for firmware updating.
If you’re doing that and are using TPkey as Select, make sure you have the original select wired to an extra wire so you can swap it in for firmware updating.
This only works if your UFB has presoldered headers. Otherwise you will have to solder.
possible to shoot a video?
As promised here’s the video for the Madcatz:
https://youtu.be/2jOG5WO2rQo
The one about the PDP should be up soon.
Cheers,