I’ve looked through threads in regards to this, and nobody seemed to have asked this question: Can I hook it up to an ethernet hub and have one plug into a console, and one plug into a PC, and have them work simultaneously? The benefit of this is if I decide to put this inside a cab, and I don’t want to keep switching out the cables, so all I need to do is just hit 1 switch (KVM Switch) and it’ll switch over to the dreamcast or PC and everything will work (In theory). I figure I can’t use a KVM switch on the controllers because it has 2 PCB’s as opposed to 1, but it would mean I need to get 2 switches…
Does not work like that.
1.The RJ45 we use on controllers and controller PCBs is just the connector, we use the connector as it’s a easy to find and easy to wire 8 pin connector, we could easily used Din 8 or DB 9 connectors
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The ethernet hub is designed and is looking for TCIP ethernet data, the data that is send along your controller cable is not TCIP data, the hub has no idea what it’s looking at.
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When you plug In your stick or controller or what ever with a Brook Retro board, MC Cthlhu or PS360 Plus, that whole board switches modes to that console or system. It cant deal with being connected to 2 different sources.
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Possible voltage overload.
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is there a way where I can hit a switch, and it’ll move the controls over to other platform? I understand I’ll have to switch the source button on the kvm, which is easy enough, but I wonder if it’ll switch the controller over as well? Or do I have to manually unplug the RJ-45 switch from the DC to the PC. Don’t mind switching 2 devices… since this DC will sit inside an arcade cab.
No. It doesn’t work like that, the board has to be reset first.
Plus as explain in point 4, voltage overload
I guess the only way for a remote possibility is through adapters then. I’d use like a brooks UFB, and get the PS3/PS4 adapter and get a USB hub (x2 one per PCB) and have the adapter plug into the DC. That regulates the voltage right?
Nope, the board can only do one mode at a time.
It could be done with maybe a KVM switch. But you need to disconnect the board for the reset. Perhaps with the KVM switch, you need to manually force what system is in use.
ah gotcha… so swapping cables it is!
I recently purchased a Brook Retro Board, and I am thoroughly disappointed with it. I strongly recommend people avoid the Brook Retro Board until they fix the button press dropping bugs that have been around for almost a year, with no firmware bug fix release date on the horizon:
Damn, I just purchased 2x DC to RJ-45 cables on ebay… So they have input drops?
Yes. Confirmed there are button and joystick press drops on both the NES and SNES. I swapped out the Brook Retro Board for a simple shift register control board (the standard circuit design used by Nintendo in the NES and SNES gamepads), and the button drops issue went away. What concerns me the most is Brook won’t even provide a date when a firmware fix will be provided, even though this issue has been known for a year. Makes me think no fix is coming.
Why build an expensive arcade stick and then use a board that drops button presses?
wonder if they’re gonna do this for dreamcast… this primary work for my dreamcast/PC
I’ve had no issues with the retro board on pc or dc.
I believe the new firmware addresses this exact issue.
welp. It works. retroboard + 20 pin multiplyer + UFB, one plugged into the dreamcast, and the other to my PC. I didn’t even need to turn my PC off, and it works straight in both dreamcast and PC. Of course, I have the UFB plugged into the PC and the brook retro plugged in the to DC. The funny thing is, when I plug in the PC, my dreamcast power light comes on. But doesn’t turn on. I still have to physically turn on the dreamcast. I even created a switch just in case, but that switch is only for if the unit is plugged into one board only, so unnecessary.
Now I have a KVM switch JUST to switch the HDMI, which makes me think I should return it and get the framemeister so I can have 4:3 on my dreamcast, and standard HDMI on my PC hmm…