Brook board help (wiring LS/DP/RS switch & led)

Tech Talk
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Hello everyone. I recently purchased a Brook wireless board for an arcade that i was building but have some issues that i was hoping you could help me with. As a nintendo switch and playstation user i would like to be able to play most of the games with the arcade board panel (because why not especially some nice arcade type games like Skyforce side to side with my wife) but i didn’t implement analogue sticks and now it’s too late as i have built everything (laser cut the panel , applied graphic art ,etc) then i saw that i could combo switch the joystick behavior to LS mode but after various tries i gave up.Reading various threads i saw that a lot of people have this issue and they switch to a 3 way rocker switch. As i am not quite acquainted with electronic work please bear with me. So from the manual i see that in my presoldered board there are 4 pins ( written LS DP RS) , so i suppose i need a 4 pin cable ( 3 for the modes + 1 grounding) and a 3 position switch. All the 3 position switches that i see they have 6 pins. Is it the correct one ? From the original aracde1up i have a 3 way switch that was used for the volume with 6 pins . Can i use this along with a 4pin button harness that i have ? How exactly should i plug the cables (attach a photo with the cable/switch https://imgur.com/mDsdYJw and the manual https://imgur.com/braG44O ) . Moreover i would like to implement a small light led to use as an indicator to when the pcb is working or not. In the manual i’m seeing that in the J2 position 5 pins with (VCC P1 P2 P3 P4) . Is it ok if i connect it to a led button positive pole to vcc and negative to P1? P1 stand for player 1 ? What the purpose of the other P2 P3 P4 if for each player im using a different board ? Or does it stands for each console mode (ps4/switch,etc) and i need to connect all the cables so i can see the status of each one (in the same manual its getting used 1P AND not P1 to define each system) .Thanx a lot !

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P.S. From some other schematics i saw that for the led bulb i need is a 5pin connector JST 22 AWG right ? This one is composed by 5 wires 4 will go to each of the positive terminal of each led bulb and the 5th wire will go to the negative pole terminal of each led bulb connecting all of them like a grounding correct (if i understand correct is called daisy chain) ? As for the switch i would need a 4 pin connector JST 22 AWG and made the same so 3 wires in each terminal of the switch + 3 ground to the other 3 terminals left. Well i can try to see what happens hehe .

in alternative is it ok this 5pin connector for the bulbs https://focusattack.com/187-to-5-pin-conversion-harness/ and this one 4 pin connector for the switch https://focusattack.com/4-pin-l3-r3-touchpad-button-harness-for-brook-universal-fighting-board/ ?

P.S.2 i noticed that the pins for the LsRsDp are bigger thsn the one on the sides. I have by the way the Brook wireless version with presoldered headers.

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For LS-DP-RS switch, on the Brook board it’s working like this:

  • to switch to LS mode, you need to move the switch to the left (connecting the two pins on the left together)
  • to switch to RS mode, you need to move the switch to the right (connecting the two pins on the right together)
  • to swith to DP mode, which is the default mode when you don’t need to connect any pins together. That means that the two pins in the middle are basically Ground points.

For P1, P2, P3, P4 LEDs: P1 means Player 1 indicator, P2 means Player 2 indicator, and so on.
You cannot wire a LED only on P1 if you want to have a LED indicating if the Brook board is working.
As P1, P2, P3, P4 LEDs indicators work like the LED indicators for your Dualshock 3 on PS3 or the LEDs from your Xbox 360 controller on 360.

Imagine you are connecting a pad or any controller to your system before your Brook.
This pad would take Player 1 assignment.
When you plug your Fightstick using the Brook PCB, it will take Player 2 spot.
Hence P1 LED won’t indicate anything.
P2 will be active.

1 Like
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Best answer hands down.

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thanx youuuuuu @Jackals i finally did it and the most important I T W O R K S ! Thanx really mate. I bought around 80 euros of tools(wire ,strippers, pliers) and accessories and to be honest i was going completely blind, i didnt know even if the connectors i bought would work , i connected to the board switch it and …voila magic. I really learned a lot during the whole arcade building journey and wouldn’t be possible without forums videos and people. A big shout of thanx you to all of you !

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Someone suggested I search for ls/rs/dp.

First I assume it’s way easier on fight-specific PCBs compared to hand wiring analog analog inputs as digital.

Second, may I have a diagram on the Brook Universal USB and the Paradise Cthulhu.

Third, certain training modes and the Genesis collections have things which use the L3 and R3.

Fourth, is the L3 and R3 on the Wii Classic Controller Pro easy to wire, (digital) hard to wire (analog) or non-existent (based on the fact that the original classic controller doesn’t have thumb buttons.

Fifth, does any Wii game that most people consider “joystick worthy” use the LS instead of DP AND requires a classic controller? Metal Slug Anthology requires an old Wii and GameCube controller, so that’s covered with the Paradise Cthulhu. Depending on quality and quantity, rhat will determine whether it’s worth digital modding LS and RS on a pad hacked Wii.

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Do not Hijack other people’s threads tripletopper.