Looks like it’s possibly to break one of these - and just when SFIV is out! :crybaby:
The stick only reacts 1/4 of the time to a left input. The feel hasn’t changed. The HRAP has seen very little use and it hasn’t suffered any external damage so for a Sanwa stick it’s pretty weird.
From everybodies experience - is this a stick related thing that can be fixed by getting a new JFL or is this something more serious?
I would open it up and inspect the stick and switch for problems…it might be something that is easy to fix.
At the very least I would pop open the switch housing to see if the internals are working.
I’ll buy your broken stick off ya 
Can’t you just replace it with another Sanwa JLF?
It’s Soldered on.
No matter…its SUPER easy to de-solder the wires on the HRAP and install QDs onto the wires for the stick.
Seriously, if you have even a novice understanding of how to solder, the whole job might take you 30 minutes (including disassembly and reassebly of the case).
The HRAP EX is not like the cheaper models where the buttons or stick are soldered to the board…THAT is a PITA to mod…in this case you have wires soldered onto simple spade terminals at the switches for the stick…piece of cake.
the problem is the jlf pcb … its not a standard one because of the non common ground board … if the pcb of the jlf is dead it would be bad … the standard pcb for the jlf is made for common ground pcbs so you have to mod it pretty much
maybe just replace the microswitch
My understanding is that Akihabara shop sells a JLF that is non common ground and plug and play compatible with the HRAP EX.
I believe this one will work, as it does not have the 5 pin connector and therefore is ready for a non common ground board:
JLW-TM-8
Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.
If the microswitch is dead then you need MS-Y-3 switches:
NeoGeo…help me out here:
If someone who owns an HRAP EX wanted to replace the stick with something that was as good or better than the JLF it came with…what model would you recommend?
From looking at your site, the easiest models to use appear to be:
LS-32 (I would go with this first over the JLW-TM-8, but that is just my preference).
**Would this need new mount plates?
JLW-TM-8
**What is the performance of this compared to the JLF?
Can you get the exact model JLF that comes on the HRAP EX?
I am trying to help the OP (AND answer the question for myself in case my stick ever dies) and surprisingly…I did multiple searches and I didn’t find the answer…probably because this stick is so new.
Thanks for the advice everyone!
How do I know if it’s the microswitch? I opened the HRAP and without actually disassembling the JLF I can’t see any differences in the 4 microswitches. They all look alike, make the same click and all the directions have the same feel.
Looking at the wires I’m sure I could solder a stick with identical wiring even though I don’t understand about the non common ground thing. Could I put an LS-32 into the HRAP EX? If not, is the JLW-TM-8 somehow inferior to the Sanwa that I have now?
TheRealNeoGeo, you have an order coming up! (not just for this)
:bgrin: at the same questions!
Sanwa sold joysticks like this before, they were called JLF-TM-8, but they stopped selling :/.
You could either switch out the microswitches or get a LS-32 with a SS-mountingplate (if I recall correctly you need that plate).
JLW-TM-8 has a different mountingplate and a shorter shaft so I do not think it would work with this.
Look at what I wrote above, should help ;).
NeoGeo will answer for sure, but I just found another thread and the LS-32 is THE recommended replacement stick for the JLF that is in the HRAP EX.
Here is the deal with common ground:
Each switch has two terminals, we will call one HIGH and the other GROUND.
The switch works by closing the connection between HIGH and GROUND, allowing current to flow through the switch, which is how the PCB recognizes that the switch is being activated.
In a COMMON ground system, all the GROUND pins for all four switches in the stick are SHARED.
In a NON-COMMON ground system, each GROUND pin for each stick is wired seperately to the board.
The HRAP EX is a NON COMMON ground board…so the best stick for it is one that is made for non common ground board (i.e. it does NOT have the 5 pin connector).
You COULD convert a common ground stick to a non common ground stick, but it would be WAY more work than its worth.
**
I’m sure neogeo will come in here and school us on the best choice, but other members believe its the LS-32 with the S-SHAPED mount plate.**
EDIT: I see neogeo beat me to the punch but he confirmed my thoughts…you need teh LS-32 with S-Shaped plate.
(We should get this info into a sticky somewhere so its easier to find).
Man that really bothers the heck out of me… Why the heck did Hori choose to make the Ex a non-common ground? From all the reading it would seem that the best route would be the common ground due to the availability of common ground parts. Plus the 5 pin connection looks to be more stable and clean. Man Hori seriously needs to restaff their R&D department seems like they just got lazy. Don’t get me wrong it’s a solid piece of equipment but eventually the parts are going to have to\ be replaced, it’s money well spent but I just don’t know why they did what they did, it’s just flat out perplexing.
i have a feeling that it might not be the microswitch fault, it might be some problem in your xbox that cause this, because i have 3 different stick, and none of them working properly on my xbox, when ever i do a super combo on my right side of the screen, which mean i have to do 2 qcf to the left, it never register the left input, i always end up with the shoryuken, same goes for the left dash when i try to cancel into ultra, but this problem never happen when i try to the right…
Sorry to be be a little of subject but is the HRAP3 for PS3 the same as HRAP EX? I just bought a hrap3 and i’ m just wondering.
Thanks.
Similar in form factor.
The EX moniker is used for Xbox.
Sorry for the double post but what i meant to ask was does the hrap3 come with the same non common ground jlf stick or is it the other jlf stick?
What is even crazier…is that to support their non common ground design, they had to custom comission a verison of the Sanwa JLF that is not standard at all.
They could have used a common ground design and ANY common model of JLF with the 5pin harnass would have been a drop in replacement…but they had to go off into the weeks and use a version of the JLF that NO ONE carries.
My guess is that they did this so that when something breaks, rather than fix it yourself you have to send it to them or buy another one.
Shady…but I still LOVE my HRAP.