I’m a PC gamer who has been messing around trying to get my TE1 stick working on PC to play SFV. I have a VIA chipset PCI-E usb port, but after working once, I can’t get the stick’s input to be recognized anymore, even in 360ce. I think this is a losing battle and have looked into doing some modding myself. The Joytron Paewang Revolution PCB is something people have used in the past, but I’m not finding it stocked anymore. Are there more recent, universal PCBs that people are using to upgrade these old sticks? I had already upgraded the buttons and changed the gate on the stick, so it’s a high-quality piece of hardware that I’d really like to be able to use. I’m in the Bronx, NYC, in case any modders see this and want to make me an offer. I’m not a genius with solder, but I think I’d be willing to take a stab at a PCB replacement, provided I have adequate documentation.
It’s an open source Xinput wrapper specifically for DS3. It might work with a Mad Catz TE1 PS3 stick too.
People are using it to play Brawlhalla with a DS3 controller according to the Brawlhalla Steam forums.
I can not test it myself but I would try that first before resolving to PCB replacement.
There’s the brook fighting board that you can install into it as it supports ps3,ps4,xbox360,xbox one, and pc and it’s pretty much one of the best ways to upgrade you stick if you want a better experience.
Cheapest solution (around $10 with all the wiring included) for PC is the zero delay USB encoder. It’s a super simple (no soldering) direct input device that also works on ps3 (works with the legacy driver on ps4 games that support it as well, do note that there’s no ps3 home button on the PC/ps3 version).
Next logical step up would be the Brook ps3/ps4/PC board. You can get it pre installed in a solderless install kit for about $50. The upside of this one vs the zero delay is that it has a native xinput mode that you can force when connecting to PC, and it will also work natively on ps4, should you come across one.
The only case where I would recommend the Brook UFB would be if you wanted 360 and/or xbone support in addition to ps4/ps3/PC support- it’s way too expensive if you don’t need the added functionality.
It does but only on the PS4, even then its only Wired PS3 USB controllers. No Dual Shock 3 support.
Also the Legacy driver can be flakey.
I don’t recommend the Zero Delay PCB, yes it is cheap. But my experiences with arcade controllers, you get what you paid for.
The Zero Delay PCB comes with connector headers for their own Pre-made wiring and not screw terminals. So you can’t just cleanly custom wire your stick.
A few people complain the System cable that comes with the Zero Delay PCB, especially the models that include a PS2 cable can be problematic due to the cables being off spec.
Ether of the Brooks boards would be the better choice.
While sfv does, there may be other games you want to use it on that do not (guilty gear didn’t, the last time I checked). Not really a concern of this is going to be strictly for pc use anyways.
gonna second @Darksakul and steer you away from the zerodelay encoder. i found on pc it maps the joystick inputs to use a x/y axis instead of the more precise hats. for fighting games you can tell a huge difference if your execution is tight. there is a toggle switch for it but you need to wire an additional button for it just to toggle.
I find the toggle button to be a positive on pc. Some older games and emulators require one or the other, and it’s much less cumbersome than switching input modes on a ps360. Button count is also generally less of a concern on pc, as home/guide aren’t needed.
Also wondering where this notion of x/y axis being less accurate than POV hat is coming from. I have never observed any difference in input accuracy with either mode on pc (despite playing a ton of SNK fighters with their long and complex motions/combos, not to mention bullet hell shmups), and I am to discern any difference in speed when looking at the inputs in device manager as I switch back and forth. Maybe there’s something I’m missing here?
Edit: playing KoF 02 Unlimited right now, have toggled back and forth so many times that I don’t know which is which, can’t tell any difference when doing stomp into phoenix kick or max mode combo cl.HP > HK rekka x2 > HK crescent > phoenix launch > air level 3 phoenix kick. Lots of rolling the lever around there, one would assume that would be a decent test.
It depends on the Game/Emulator and how they are interpreting the X,Y Axis data from the API layer.
Worst and most noticeable case is using a PS3/Xbox 360 game pad with MAME as MAME does not want to resister POV hat at all. And Mame does not do well with analog controls for a digital joystick input.
Its a bad hold over from when game pads with a D-pad used the Mini 15 pin game port instead of USB and the D-pad input was registered as X,Y Axis controls in the API layer.
There is a reason we use DP instead of LS on Consoles.
So using X/Y axis as default causes problems for what reason? Lots of people use MAME and emulators on PC, it sounds like defaulting to pov hat would be more annoying- I know I find it to be when I boot up an old NES emu while using a ps360. We know toodles has the Cthulhu outputting both signals simultaneously (to PC) for compatibility concerns, surely he wouldn’t have done that if the x/y axis inputs would slop things up.
I know it makes more of a difference on consoles, where using LS mode on a 360 stick causes the inputs to “hang” at times, but I haven’t experienced anything of the sort using either mode on a PC game that supports both (assuming the game has no different function for each built in, of course). Seems like the issue is more a concern of whether or not a game/program plays nice with one mode or the other, not one mode being less accurate than the other.
Wow, this thread definitely took flight and has reached over-my-head levels of technicality, but I really appreciate the feedback. I can solder (a bit) but I like the idea of screw terminals and figure the Brook ps3/4/PC board sounds like the best solution for me. The UFB at near 100 bucks with all the headers is just too much for me to justify, and I’m not likely to be doing any xbox gaming anytime soon. Really appreciate it guys!