About a month ago I got myself a DOL-001 GameCube and an N64 at a local pawn shop for $20 and $40 Canadian respectively ($15 and $30 USD respectively). No cables or controllers on either of them.
Both consoles were FILTHY, but I cleaned them up real nice:
Before:
I’m tempted by the GCLoader, but the drive works just fine, so I’d feel a little bad in taking it out for the time being…
I unfortunately didn’t take any “before” pics of the N64 being filthy, but there was a dead bug inside…
Cleaned it up nicely and installed Voultar’s RGB board on it to get the best for my RAD2X.
At this point in time, in terms of retro consoles that I still want to get, it’d be just a top-loader NES.
I had a RGB modded NES, I ended up selling it and now have a RGB modded Front loader (Actually a nodded AV famicom) with the Lockout chip disabled.
I probably never ever getting rid of the front loader. Kinda regret selling the RGB modded AV famicom.
One good pro of the top loader is it’s easier to use adapters for Famicom games
“Pegasus” brand optical pcb (dirt simple, considering what’s on the PCB) for some brazilian (probably chinese made) happ clone sticks. The trimpot pot makes it adjustable just like a SparkCE:
Why a happ super / iL compact clone ? I don’t like that joystick and the clones are even worse.
Otoh, 2nd Impact also made an optical PCB for Sanwa JLF , branded “2nd impact-perfect360-sanwa” but it’s not sensitivity adjustable.
Optical microswitch for US / EU type pushbuttons , still by Pegasus, designed by “Alextec” starting in 2014 more or less according to his claims :
For iL PSL-L concave clear and PSL convex clear plunger stems to shade correctly the NIR sensor in the PEGASUS switch , said stems need to be “darkened” with a black permanent marker (!!!) .Who knows if that will last, eheh…honestly it would be best to stay with opaque plunger stems.
There are negative ground and positive ground versions depending on the encoder pcb present in the stick.
Interesting Happ clone stuff. I played around with a P360 for a stick I built for a friend of mine and could see the appeal. Couldn’t find an optical for myself after that. Between the Magenta and this, there may be options for my build this year
After watching this video, I found the “Almost” perfect Power Supply
Apparently the inline off/on switch most people were using causes a voltage drop
Except I didn’t want to use a USB Micro to 5.5mm x 2.1mm adapter, so taking apart the switch housing of the NorthPada Raspberry Pi Adapter, I can solder in a cord with a 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC power plug rather easily.
Do any of you have any experience with that new connector that Sanwa came up with recently? I’m thinking about putting a set on my travel stick, but wanted to know if the connector could be easily removed if need be.
So I finally figured out what was wrong all this time with my Neo Geo core of my Mister.
Somehow the romset.xml was keep on getting corrupted.
Trying to download the file as a text/HTML file was getting corrupted.
Going for the file (with all the supporting files) as a Zip seems to get around the issue.
Sanwa connector? You mean the thing on the Victrix FS? Disconnecting the lever, i.e. like a Phreakmods Link, is easy when you’ve got dry hands, and near impossible when you’ve got the hand sweats, orange Dorito hands, or grease from delicious cheese fries.
If you mean uninstalling the whole lever assembly from your travel stick, i.e. from the ball top, quick disconnect top half shaft, bottom half base shaft, all the way down to the c-clip, that’s pretty straightforward too. @Jasen_Hicks did an in depth comparison video on his YouTube channel. Can dig it up if you need it.
If this is not at all what you were asking about Orz
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P.S. So far I’ve only dug out the GameCube from my recent CL pick. It powers up, but does not read discs
Bought an iFixIt kit to open it up for cleaning, and if that doesn’t work, then I’ll give the adjust the laser’s pot fix that seems to be all over the internets a try. I have a volt meter to check the pot, before\after adjusting it, anything else I should worry about before diving in?
Holy moly, I need that. I didn’t plan accordingly and drilled holes in my AFS case for extra option buttons. Only problem is, one of them is directly in line with my left directional button, so the only way I can close the case is if I scissor those bad boys and it’s a nightmare
So after years of not using it. I plugged in the old Logitech G25 and got it to work with PCSX2. After some fumbling with plug-ins and drivers, I finally got it to work for a couple of hours. After awhile however, it started acting up and steering wrong. After power cycling, the thing wont steer anymore and the power light is blinking. Anyone got any experience with this? I’d hate to have to let it go since Logitech stopped making wheels with the changeable H pattern to sequential shifter anymore (that, and new wheels are hella expensive).
