Yep. I agree, but I don’t draw 'em – I just animate them.
Ever have one of those moments where the amount of things you could say in response to something is so great that it simply shorts your brain out and you’re left sitting there giggling for a few minutes?
That totally happened just now.
No takers for the V8 dremel?
Just give me a Honda F20C Engine or a Toyota 4A-GEU engine, and that’ll be enough.
My job here is done.
what kind of hurdles must one jump over to make a wireless stick?
How about a Nissan RB26DETT or Toyota 2JZ-GTE? Or maybe a VR38DETT?
Maybe the panty-duck is easy to please, but until I see an internal combustion engine (preferably FIA-GT2 or higher spec) I wont be impressed.
Nah, I like the Nissan SR20DETT over the RB26. Just a fan of the SR20s. The 2JZs are nice too, but not so much the VR38. Would chose the Mazda 13B-REW even though they are a b---- to maintain.
It depends. Single wireless, which system? Dual wireless? Triple Wireless?
But the RB can be tuned to output as much as a Veyron. More importantly, it’s an inline 6 - the greatest cylinder configuration for single digit cylinders ever made.
I can imagine it now. Tuned RB (with a custom Jun auto valve cover for street cred), connected to the a Honda SH-AWD diff, sending power to 4 different tools (hence the SH-AWD diff since that can balance power 4 diferent ways), dremel, drill, electric fan (for when it’s hot, and trust me, it will be) and smoothie blender.
Imagine the “pshh” of the blow off valves as you drill a hole in your weapons grade titanium casing with the tungsten carbide side panels.
Most likely single console. I won’t be attempting any time soon being I lack the funds, but I want to make a custom wireless out of ownership reasons.
Biggest thing I’m clueless about is the battery. And a way to make a port for charging the thing.
What console. If it’s a PS3, and your using the stock controller + Axisadapter, you can just connect a short USB cable to a Neutrik jack for another USB cable.
Forgot to mention, it’s gonna be 360.
Usually I can dig up guides for this stuff. I have something that could help, but not much.
you need to get a late version wireless 360 pad and a Play n Charge rechargable battery and cable. The late version is common ground where as the early version is common line. Tech since its a single system mod you could use either, but a common ground version would be more convenient.
do your standard padhack and have the PnC battery connected/wired to the 360 pcb. Connect or wire up the PnC cable to the 360 pcb and have that plug into a Neutrik USB port.
sync button is optional. It will auto sync when connected through usb and charge the battery.
P.S. the contact pads for the D-Pad are very tiny. It is very easy to have the contact pad ripped off the pcb with little force pulled on the wires. Hot glue will be very helpful.
triple wireless? a ps3, a 360 and what?
man I miss driving the maserati. 
Are it’s guts now powering your dremel/drill? If not I will be dissapoint son.
wii via PeeWii+remote.
ferrari took it back :X
I’m assuming Gummy has yet to read the front page bit about the Neo-Geo pad, especially this comment.
I think I"m going to just buy a bunch of 4066’s and some 14 pin ic sockets. Looks like the one I have in IS has been the culprit, and I may as well drop one in EL Guapo to get USB switching working. I’ll probably end up rewiring that with 28 gauge at some point, maybe even replacing the leo v1 for v2 (once I solder that up, anyway…)