he can in the uk but people pay a few hundred to ship cabs in the states
Lol, that is an excellent idea!
Thanks, I am spending a couple of hours a day on it after work. I was hoping to have it finished before ssf4 release but got setback because I am still waiting for a special order router bit to arrive from the US.
It still looks abit messy in the photos. Once I applied the body filler and started sanding it all down and making it smooth it looks alot nicer. The body filler/sanding stage is one I detest the most.
Its a Bewlix, lol.
Thanks! I am soo excited to finish it but have promised myself not to rush it.
I tried that but still no joy. I think the battery is dead now as it nearly ran out of charge before it fell in the water. Im not sure if the shortcircuit has killed it. If I plug the charger in the tiny led lights up to say its charging but it doesnt turn on at all. Im guessing the battery is dead.
I used to spend alot of time on my previous cars before. Such as paint jobs, car audio etc so picked up a few tricks along the way.
Its not one days work. I would say to get to this stage I have spent a totaly of 3 whole days. Alot of time was wasted running about buying materials etc.
I think shipping wouldnt be that bad to be honest as it would be sent on a pallet and I THINK it would be a about 200. I THINK! I would need to check.
I dont think I will be building these to order. Its just not going to be financially rewarding enough to want to do it.
Sadly, I havent been able to recover the photos from my phone. So we have had to skip a step in the build.
I will give a brief breakdown of what I did.
After giving all of the components a thorough check I made sure to fill any holes, cuts etc followed by sandind, sanding and more sanding until the surfaces were as smooth as possible.
PLEASE NOTE! DO NOT RUSH THIS STAGE! AS ANY IMPERFECTIONS WILL ONLY BE HIGHLIGHTED x1000 ONCE THE PAINT GOES ON !
As you know mdf is very pourous so I sealed all of the elements with an MDF sealer. I applied this thinly using a small foam roller. 2-3 coats was more than enough.
This method seals the mdf so that any subsequent paints dont get absorbed into the wood. This will obviously improve quality of applied coats and stop the paints from getting sucked into the wood. This would mean double the amount of paint required.
Once the mdf sealer has fully cured. I used a high build filler primer. I like to apply this using a cheap paint gun with very thick coats. Dont worry if runs occur as it can be sanded back. Obviously its best to avoid drips etc as it means less work later.
I like the leave the primer to cure for at least 2 whole days. This way all of the chemicals inside have evaporated and the paint has fully cured. If you start sanding before the primer/paint has dried it may result in sand scratches developing once it has fully cured.
I then start by using a 180 grit wet/dry paper to start smoothing out the surfaces. I try to achieve a surface which is as smooth as glass. The smoother the primer is the better the overall finish of the paint and less wet sanding required at the end.
Work your way up from 180 - 600 grit wt/dry paper. As you start using finer paper have a bowl of water near by so you can shake the paper init to remove any particle buildup. This prolongs the life of the paper and also provides a better finish.
I use an “acryic stopper” to fill any tiny pin holes or pits I may find at this stage. It is the yellow filler shown in the photos below.
At this stage I dont even think about buying paints until I am 200% sure the surface is perfect and as smooth as humanly possible.
… 
Good God man… Want…More…
this is going ot be ridiculous
awesome work.
Just epic man…well done indeed. The fighting game experience will be way more exciting and intense on that beast.
Man, this is so awesome! I love reading about these kinds of builds. They are truly inspiring.
I can’t imagine the awesome paintjob this is going to have.
Just saw this thread, my goodness, this may shape up to be the best cabinet i’ve ever seen. I’m wishing I lived in the UK right about now.
Great job, keep up the great work.
This craftsmanship is fantastic.
I’m so following this through to the finish, it’s looking great. The shape and work put into it is astounding!
yo B…am in the uk…holla if u need a hand or nething…id love to check this baby out when its finished…
This thing brings tears to my eyes. I’m not really that big of a fan of the Viewlix itself, but the craftsmanship that’s going into this thing is impossible not to appreciate!
damnit! I just found this thread and was hoping that I was late enough to see it all t he way to the finished product but NOOOOO, now I have to wait! I must see the end result… This is epic! Wish I had a friend that was mad skilled like this so I could go play on his amazing cab every day with him for practice! lol
This build is awesome, and I will enjoy watching the progress!!
I find it funny that you wish you had a friend with great woodworking skills… I personally wish that I had the skills myself to do this.
Amazing… truly a testament to your skill… Huge respect to the master craftsman! Can’t wait to watch this develop and come to life…
I saw B15, Vewlix Clone and immediately though “F yes.” I definitely wasn’t disappointed in the content haha.
simply amazing…
Once the primer is perfectly smoothed and no pits/dips etc the next stage is to apply the colour coat.
For the colour scheme I am going to be using high gloss black, white and an accent colour. Havent decided on the accent colour yet as I still need to have a play around with colour swatches.
For the main cabinet I am going to use the black, white for the side panels (like the velix) and the accent colour for a few other components.
I applied a coat of high gloss black to see if were any other imprefections in the surface.
As you may already know the high gloss black shows up every imprefection more than any other colour where as light colours dont.
After allowing the first coat to cure for 24hrs I came back to check if there was anything that needed wetsanding.
I found a few areas that needed wetsanding as can be seen below. This is basically my last chance to make sure everything is mirror finish smooth. I used some 300-400 grit wet/dry paper. Again I like to keep the paper wet so it cuts through the paint more efficiently.