Yeah LED’s was my first idea, but now I think I am going for UV lights
Gotta look up info on UV paint/dye I can use and I am sure Art can probably come up with some UV reactive acrylic at some point. (that yellow color on the iron man stick looks like it may react to UV its hard to tell)
I also think it would be cool to creatively cut out opaque artwork, say you did a full case artwork setup like Art showed with that carbon fiber. But instead of just a texture, use a design like the doors to the X-Men chamber opening and fill the case with white light so it looks like the doors are actually opening and this bright light is shining through.
Or maybe use the red acrylic for your top piece and have a design of a ninja or something and have the eyes cut out, so this dark desaturated ninja design has these bright red glowing eyes.
I definitely have some kind of lighting project planned for one of these clear cases.
I absolutely love the idea for the case, and I’m completely up for getting one.
I see that you’ve got plans for a USB pass through already, but do you think it would be possible to work something out for a DB9 connector? I want to make this stick into an all in one stick, and I’m more comfortable working with DB9 as opposed to RJ-45.
Since there are no standard DB9 connectors I do not think there is a way for him to make the right hole, you will probably have to make your own. If that is the case I recommend a cheap laminate trimmer and a small trimming bit thats what I used for my project that used DB25 connectors.
Given what I read in his FAQ’s about requests for custom stuff I do not think he has time to do anything he does not already have templates for and there is a big need for (of course I cant speak on his behalf just guessing). The Neurotek stuff just happens to be one of those things that is in high demand and also uses a simple standard 24mm hole for mounting (same as the 24mm buttons)
Also dont be afraid of RJ45 its not too hard to work with, all my cables came out fine the first time and its kinda nice to just crimp stuff rather than solder it like I did with the DB25 connections.
Edit also you could just use the standard cable hole and put a DB9 cable through it and work with a DB9 header on the inside of the box rather than mounting it to the outside of the box, im sure thats not ideal having a pigtail sticking out the back but its still a valid way to use DB9 with the current design.
Check out this cool DB25 thing I used on my Mame cab. Goes to DB25 with a PCB with screw terminals for connecting the wires.
They probably make a DB9 version of it and you can plug directly into it on the inside of the box using one of the supplied pcb mounting brackets. So yeah just an idea to maybe get you started with a brain storm.
(This is HRAP V3 SA, it uses the two middle holes for Seimitsu, instead of the four corners like other Universal Mounting Bracket.)
(But can use the corners too, since distance same for both Sanwa and Seimitsu.)
So what you can do if you want to use those little spacer things is to use Seimitsu SS Mounting Plate.
That will let for LS-32(-01) to be as close to the top as possible.
So, can there be an Acrylic Mounting Plate for LS-32(-01)?
I don’t know.
Probably, if just mount directly to the Control Panel.
No use of the spacers.
Then of course, that would require countersinking.
Which you said you will not do.
^ jdm I don’t think I could ever get sick of your explanations, you just always find a way to inform the general public don’t you? lol Well im really hoping that the LS-32-01’s get a green light for these cases. If so, the only thing that will be left in my wallet are little tumbleweed rolling around.
wow wow wee wow… awesome stuff… I just got my tracking numbers from Art for my 2 full te plexi covers and very excited about getting them… definitely gonna transplant one of my te’s guts into one of these bad boys… hope theres room for 8 buttoms
i dont know if this has been stated but i like the 6 button lay out, my question is will there be a option to place the 2 else where? i hate when i have friends over and one cant play without the PPP and KKK buttons. this would solve it
If you are able to pull this off and produce a product that is 100% Happ/IL compatible, yours would be one of the few if only option on the market catering to the “old-school” scene such as myself. I’ve longed to find a supplier for a case in which to build and customize my own Happ-based controller. With MAS nolonger truly in any real form of business, there are just too few options for to build such a custom arcade stick for these types of components. X-Arcade is crap and “Arcade-In-A-Box” while aesthetically pleasing, simply offers too limited a design base. Cudos to you, sir and best of luck!
I got enough parts on my old Mame cab to make 2 full Happ comp sticks I may just do that when that version is out, its been awhile since a bat top and clicky button has graced my hands.
Uhm, what?
D-sub are standard, I’ve bought various Male and Female DB/DE9 (they’re the same thing) connectors from many places for projects over the years, and they are all the exact same size for the pins (otherwise the male/female counterpart would not fit) and the mounting holes off to the side wouldn’t fit. The only difference I’ve ever noticed is sometimes the physical plate is a mm bigger, but it doesn’t offset the size/placement at all. Same thing goes for monitor cables (DB25) and any other D-Sub connectors.
Its not that I’m “afraid” to work with RJ-45, its that DB9 is a.)cheaper (If I went with RJ-45 I’d want to put some nice boots on the cables, like the Neurtek ones) b.)just as secure and c.)much quicker for me to work with (and I can test the connection much more easily, straight to the pin before I screw the hood on). Its a nice option for people who don’t mind sacrificing a bit of space.
I still think it’s a viable option, and I’d be willing to even cover the costs of a D-Sub connector (as small as the cost is lol) if need be.
I dont think you understood me, I didnt go into detail because I thought it was obvious. Of course the connector is standard thats why it has a designated name. Im talking about the header you use for that connection type. I have have use atleast 7 different DB25 headers and each one of them had a different way to fit and would require a different hole, I meant (the obvious I thought) the hole for the connector would not be standard so that he could just look it up and produce the hole you need per spec. The RJ45 header we are using does however have documented specs for the type of hole it would need (24mm aka 15/16")
I think some people are worried about weight of the stick, I suggested the brute method of just putting like a metal plate on/in the bottom to increase weight but lets face it, unless your going to use artwork that is going to ruin the case looks and maybe you dont really want to do that. It may also be a problem getting something cut to the right size and getting it inside the case and into position.
So now I upgraded my idea, had magnets on the brain
An easy fix is to get 4 strong magnets like these:
Glue them with some hot glue or something to the inside bottom 4 corner areas.
Now the stick will sit nice and tight on any metal surface, and you can easily come up with some kind of metal plate to put on the bottom for weight if you need. Id probably just modify one of those lap desks to have a piece of metal on it so I get the comfort of the lap desk and the added stability of the magnets.
The magnets inside wont really ruin any of the looks, it may look pretty neat since they are reflective and will kinda reflect light in the case.
If I do this I am definitely also following up by putting a metal plate on my wall somewhere. I have absolutely no space to store anything and have a hard time finding a place to put my joysticks when not in use. The magnets would just let me “hang” the joystick on the wall for both storage and display when not in use.
The trick is to find a magnet strong enough to get the right hold, I think the one pictured is about right it maybe even a bit strong since its a rare earth type, and they are only like $3.00.
