Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases

Tech Talk
981

Cool, thanks for the info!

In the case assembly video on Art’s website, he mentions doing another video for weight slots and putting in artwork, but I can’t find a video explaining it. What can anyone tell me about the weight slots and how they work? And do I need to buy special weights to put into them?

982

More info about the weight slots can be found in the post earlier in this thread.

http://forums.shoryuken.com/t/arts-hobbies-diy-acrylic-cases/101140/241

983

Perfect, thank you!

984

Hi @arthong

For Mad Catz V.S. Bottom Cover MCVS-BREG it is possible to choose another color with a design etched?

Thanks

985

yes…europe=pain. shipping is hardcore.(dealbreaker)

986

Love my tek hitbox!

[IMG]http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p490/john_1776/20170416_173625_zps5vwfoad5.jpg[/img]

[IMG]http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p490/john_1776/20170416_173612_zpsc6lmgtoh.jpg[/img]

987

So I think I’ve got myself pretty much talked in to one of these in a hitbox configuration but I actually got hands on with a TE2+ tonight and was actually really blown away by the built quality. Between that PDP/Qanba Injustice stick I’ve been using and all the bad things I’ve read online about how the TE2 line feels I wasn’t actually expecting much from it. Instead that’s really what I’ve been hoping to find in terms of how the build quality felt and overall size/weight (and more what I was imagining the Qanba Dragon would feel like which makes that all the more intimidating). I think I’ve really got myself on the road to a hitbox layout though so can anyone compare/contrast for me how these cases feel compared to the TE2? All I have to compare it is a HRAP EX (which I absolutely hated) and that Injustice stick (which feels solid if hollow but has crap hardware).

That being said I would probably have ordered the case and all the parts already if I could decide on a color scheme already. So I did the only reasonable thing there was to do and spent my weekend learning a 3D package so I could rough together a model that I could approximate all the combinations I wanted on before committing to my regret! Didn’t do the wiring or hardware or a few other bits because that would have just been crazy!..

Think so far this transparent dark blue top/sides/supports with black bottom and clear front/back is in the lead right now (even though the blue probably came out a bit light based on the pictures/video I was eyeballing it off of).

988

I ordered a Plexi and Art for my Panzer Hitbox 3 from Art’s Hobbies on 4/27 and have yet to see anything else on it. I know they say 14 days but geez does it always take THAT long to get your stuff?

989

It’s a popular place so he usually has a ton of orders. My last one took 14 days exact.

990

@VarmintBaby Read his FAQ. This shouldn’t come as a surprise. Other than Focus Attack, the guy is really the only big name in plexiglass and print and cut art services.

I’ve ordered hundreds of $$ worth of stuff from him. He delivers like clockwork.

991

I love my tek hitbox.

992

I love my tek [non]hitbox[es] :smiley:

993

Couple of questions that have come to mind while looking at parts tonight. It seems like the Brook UFB is bigger than some of the boards out there, does it fit with the PCB plates still? If not is there a suggested way of mounting it? Are there any compatibility issues with any particular buttons (leaning towards Seimitsu screw ins) or other parts I should avoid? Lastly (for now) is the plexi that you would cover the art with cut so it goes under the buttons or around them?

994

Use adhesive PCB feet and span them across both plates like so:

I’ve used Sanwa and Seimitsu and both snap-in and screw-ins without issue, with a clear art overlay plexi and without…

995

I don’t own my own Tek-case (the current USD-CAD exchange rate is too crappy right now), but put together my brother’s Tek-case a few years ago for him.

  1. I’ve personally hand-cut my own PCB mounting-plates for my brother’s Tek-case, depending on whichever PCB he was using. So I have one that fits a ChIMP SMD perfectly, another that fits a PS360+ perfectly, and yet another that fits an MC Cthulhu+IMPv2.

  2. I’ve fit both Sanwas and Seimitsus in there. Sanwas snap-ins were a little tight; it made it easier to file down the little nubs under the rims to fit them in.

  3. The plexi fits under the buttons. As far as I know, the Mad Catz TE2 is the only stick that made the plexi go around the buttons, for easy artwork swaps, a feature that I don’t think most people cared about.

996

Thanks for the responses, figured that was going to be the case but would rather not make assumptions when trying to blindly order stuff online.

That’s kind of a brilliant way of doing it and I hadn’t even considered that.

997

It worked really well. I got the feet at Focus Attack, though I’m sure you could find comparable feet on the likes of Amazon, eBay, et. al.

https://www.focusattack.com/ez-snap-low-profile-adhesive-pcb-feet-set-of-4/

998

The internal wiring on this is super clean. Do you sell sticks/mods?

999

Thanks! I don’t offer anything (yet), but I’ve been thinking about it. :smile:

1000

Hey guys,

I was just admiring all of your designs. They all look so cool. I’m currently looking into ordering one of the tek cases (possibly hitbox style because I’m curious) but likely just a standard 8 button setup. Could anyone help me with figuring out what I need to get to build one of these? I’ve only used prebuilt fight sticks before. Like the Madcatz TE. I also have a Mayflash f500 that is good for modding. I’ve only done minor mods on them though like adding a different restrictor plate to the joystick and swapping buttons out for Sanwa buttons.

So you know, I need to build something that will work for the PS4 and possibly PC as well. It also needs to be legal for tournaments. Could anyone point me in the right direction?