Switchcraft does make a patch panel blank. It looks like its a cover place for covering a hole a Switchcraft or Neutrik passthrough device once fitted.
You still have to drill a hole in that blank panel piece. You also have to solder the correct wiring to your audio jack.
Xbox 360 headsets are size 2.5 mm audio jacks.
any ETA on your mini case design?
Sorry about the pic quality. I used a wireless 360 pad for this, so it’s wireless. The neutrik adapter is for charging the batteries, which I upgraded to higher capacity Duracells. Had to drill a small hole in the front for the connect button(a small button from radio shack). Overall, it came out pretty good, but man is it cramped in there. I used the back half of the controller case to hold the PCB and battery, a play and charge cable, and a terminal block from eBay. No inside shots, but I’m not too happy with my sloppy wiring, so I’m ok with that. It works great though, and the case feels rock solid after over a month of daily use!
If I were to give one criticism, it would be that the vertical supports and bottom/top pieces snapped together too tightly. I had to open it up a few times to fix a few issues, and the bottom ring started to crack where it snaps together. I’m not exaggerating, they were really freaking tight.
Anyway, I’m super happy with it. Having a wireless 360 hitbox clone for home use is exactly what I needed.
Looks great Evolution!
Can I see some pics of what the SFxT VS mirror red and mirror purple side panels/front panel look like?
I guess I’ll repost this one more time since I’m totally in love with the final result :3
http://imageshack.us/a/img14/218/jm4x.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img6/9073/p5bs.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/4553/3tey.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/5493/8tfq.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/221/63gu.jpg
My only complain would be that I wish the PCB spacers and screws came with the case.
Keyboard stickless movement layout and american six buttons, that is one funky custom top you got there.
I really dig the melty + bb scheme though, looks gorgeous!
And evolution, man that stick bleeds style, it looks fantastic!
Hey Art how if possible would be to order some spacers for the JLF plexi mount ? I seem to have misplaced mine during some maintenance.
i’m not a fan of the hitbox setup (mainly because i’ve never used it) but that peacock stick looks great. the placement of that button on the eightball is perfect.
Oh man the edges on the top layer are sharp. Is there a way I can make them more comfortable? I’m using masking tape right now just so it doesn’t bother me too much. I might resort to wrist bands lol.
I use a wrist band. Might not look stylish but it keeps my hand from getting sore.
Thanks for the compliments, guys.
@LLeg3nd About the sharp edges, my first though is to rub the edge with something made out of hard plastic or even metal. But I’d do it on the bottom edge first, to make sure it doesn’t look funny.
I’ve been wanting one of Art’s TEK cases for over a year have been designing artwork for one since then. I finally bought an all black one (minus the front panel so you can see the name plate) and it arrived earlier this week. After putting it together, it is a high really quality and solid product. Nicely done Art.
All pieces I ordered.
Completed TEK case without any artwork applied and the clear Seimitsu buttons and bat top that I had on my old TE stick.
Bottom Panel w/ artwork.
I ordered 3 different pieces of art for the top panel.
Here is #1.
Here is #2.
Here is #3.
I designed this Tek-Case for a friend. I’m still waiting on parts from Paradise Arcade Shop but I thought I would post the built case anyway.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/IMAG0390.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/IMAG0392.jpg
Been about 10 months since I built mine, and I’m noticing lots of dust has become trapped between top and bottom pieces. I’m guessing this is because I have pictures in both of them.
I’m probably going to be taking this apart at some point to redo the wiring. Anyone have any tips on how to keep the dust out? I’m thinking I could rub a clear silicone into the crack, but I wanna know if someone else has tried this first. I could use tape too, but I think tape might look pretty trashy unless I’m able to hide it very well.
I like the idea of clear silicon to seal that seam. If I was going to try something like you are talking about, this is what I would do. Should be easy to remove if you ever want to swap art out too. I say go for it. I would be very careful not to push it too far into the seam though. Try to keep it all on the outside. Post up and show us how it looks when you’re done.
Yeah I think that’s what I’m gonna do. I’ll definitely post pics, but might be a while before I get around to cracking it open to clean it up.
Anyone have any tips on making art to be etched on the Tek case top panel? I can’t find the buttons on the template.
is it possible for a Hori SCV full plexi and maybe a cable door replacement?
The artwork on the sides and the bottom, how is it held there (stuck on, sandwiched between two plexi, etc.)?