Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases

[arthong]

Just an update - I’ve been using the case with no problems thus far, and nothing really new to report (which, in my opinion, is something to report in itself - works just as a stick should). As a reminder, I’m using the original case - I have not tested the case w/ the weight adding options, though I must say the more options, the better. Some people may find other clever ways to use these slots, so more power to them.

One thing I’m really, really loving is the fact that you can very easily access the inside of the stick. Four screws, then done - get to work on your stick. The fact that you can see your wiring before you even open up your case is really great, too - if you have some sloppy exposed wires, or solder points that got undone due to various factors (too much tension, pulling, cold joints, etc), you won’t have to assume - pick the case up and look at it.

Art, are the BBs noisy? I can see that being a distraction in tournaments.

Thanks for the update dude. Much appreciated. As for BB noise, when compacted together there’s really not much noise. PM’ing you.

So I brought the Acrylic Case to Tournament of Thursday Night.
Wanted to see if it can withstand beating from the good guys in SoCal.

Was going cool the first two hours.
Then one of the screws for the securing of Joystick to Control Panel popped off.

Since it was one out of four, I just let them continue using.

Three hours later, two more screws popped off.
So the Joystick sunk inside the Case.
Laugh.

I’m going to screw on the Joystick from the outside and bring it next week.
Or just screw on tighter from the inside.

I got report that while playing, they felt the Control Panel would press down when hit Buttons.
And also that when press on Button, it would activate another Button also.
But said that when played gently, it did not happen.
Vibration from hard press probably caused.
Laugh.

Crack between Light Kick and Medium Kick.
Crack between Medium Kick and Heavy Kick.

Man, those guy really beat the Case.
Laugh.

But they said the Case looks really cool.
And performed well.

Going to do some things with the Weight Panels next week.

Wow, sounds like some guys really pounded on that thing, lol. Try tightening the screws from the bottom a bit more first. I haven’t really heard any other loosening issues from the plexi replacements.

Not too sure how pressing hard on one button would activate another, case-wise. Too much vibration perhaps? Can’t really think of a reason behind it that may be due to the case.

Anyway, I do have a design for people who may hammer the case a little more than some. I’ll update that soon as I get some new pics. In either case, it still goes to the point that the case is not meant for a very aggressive playstyle. Although there will be plans for a thicker case in the future. Thanks for the info!

[GeorgeC]

I’ve read the updates and I think you’re on to something nice here, Art…

(Wish I could have been one of the testers… :sad: )

BUT, anyhow, as you’re encountering problems you’re doing a nice job of solving them quickly!

That only inspired confidence that you’re going to put out something nice!

P.S. – Thanks for the heads-up on the BB’s!

[RaveSage]

Question: Will there be customizable options for the Neutrik slots. Like if I wanted a usb and ethernet port in the case, can I get the spots that would normally be the two 24mm holes (in the back panel) replaced with Neutrik spots and have the original one be a 24mm button hole?

[Nerrage]

Hey, I like your cases, and I’m excited to order one in the future (hopefully August, that would be great timing!), but I couldn’t clearly tell from your posts one thing; are you going to have artwork printing available for your own cases? I really liked what you have for the TE/HRAP/etc, but I only have an SE. Grr. You need to make SE plexi and artwork cutouts :deathstare:

[otter]

We’ve been begging for SE templates since the beginning, I think that ship has sailed. This new stuff is worth it though.

[Kakitajamie]

Hey, I like your cases, and I’m excited to order one in the future (hopefully August, that would be great timing!), but I couldn’t clearly tell from your posts one thing; are you going to have artwork printing available for your own cases? I really liked what you have for the TE/HRAP/etc, but I only have an SE. Grr. You need to make SE plexi and artwork cutouts :deathstare:

We’ve been begging for SE templates since the beginning, I think that ship has sailed. This new stuff is worth it though.

Art actually responded to this subject early on in this thread when I asked.

As for SE Lamination, I’m still working on it. The guy I’ve been talking to about procuring Lamination stock is being a moron. I’ve told him hundreds of times I need laminate and mounting (adhesive) material that is not vinyl based because laser cutting that stuff is toxic. However, him and/or the vendors he’s talking with are being airheads about it. They sent me samples claiming they are all vinyl free. Well good thing i double checked and googled the material they sent me cuz they were indeed vinyl based and I could’ve damaged my machinery as well as hurt myself had I cut those samples. Needless to say I wasn’t very happy with them. So I’m currently still looking. Sorry for the wait.

[d3v]

Been looking into getting one of these when it drops (either this or a Voltech case) with what I’ve been able to make from art commissions. Hoping for an art template out soon, I’ve some ideas for artwork to put on this.

[TheSoulhunter]

Was going cool the first two hours.
Then one of the screws for the securing of Joystick to Control Panel popped off.

Since it was one out of four, I just let them continue using.

Three hours later, two more screws popped off.
So the Joystick sunk inside the Case.
Laugh.

Perhaps some Loctite would help?
Screws in the Madcatz sticks seem to be laden with it, lol!

[jdm714]

It was just me not tightening enough.
Laugh.

[NHTRAN328]

Wow Art these cases are awesome! Good job man I can’t wait until August to pick one of these up for myself.

[Nerrage]

Art actually responded to this subject early on in this thread when I asked.

Figures. I’d love to get a hawt plexi cover. My SE artwork job is garbage, honestly.

[Twinkle]

I guess this case is not child-proof yet. Why not incorporate 0.5 inch acrylic bars as pilars w/ backing plates as internal support around those weak areas?

[jdm714]

I found this in my room.
Didn’t notice it until late.

Don’t know when I got it, but arthong shipped it on Tuesday.

What is it?
More Acrylic stuff.

New Weight Panels.

New Joystick Mounting.

New Support Panel.

New Top Panel.

Okay, so here is how it goes.

First to screw on the Joints for the Weight Panel.

To use these, you have to remove the old Side Panels.

Here is on one side.

Both sides with the Weight Panel.

Next part you will need to work from the inside.

Screw on the Slot Panel.

arthong, I didn’t have the four sets of screws and nuts to install the Slot Panel.
So I had to remove the PCB Mounts to use their screws and nuts.

Both sides done.

I had the Bottom Panel off before for something else, so I screw back.

Next is to insert the Reinforcement Panels.

Two for each side.

Hello BB.

After adding the BB, replace back the Top Border.

Then the Top Panel.

Man guys, the added weight of the BB really weighs the Case down compare to without.
It is cool.

There you are done with adding the Weight Option to your standard TEK-CASE S1-A.

But I’m not done there.
I got parts to make a TEK-CASE S1-B.

This B Version is same as A, except for it not having a Border and different Top.

Instead of a Border, there is now a Support Layer.

This Layer is where the Joystick will mount to.

Then a Top Panel will go on that.
This is where the Buttons will go into.
Since the Joystick is mounted on Support Layer, there are no holes on the Top.

So basically, with this design, the Control Panel is 1/8" thick, having two 1/16" Panels.
This giving more tension and strength for more beating.
If you guys read my previous Post, you know.

Well here goes the new parts.

Here are the new Joystick Mounting.

Being in two pieces instead of four Spacers is cool.

Put on the two Mounting Pieces.

Lay on the Joystick with Mounting Plate already installed.

Put on the 1/16" Spacers.

Because of the different thickness, 3/8" Screws this time.
Screwed on tight this time.

Don’t want like last.
Laugh.

Remove the Top Border.

Put on the Support Panel to Case.

This is the 2P Astro City if you guys not know.

Here is with the Top Panel on the Support Panel.

Buttons installed.

As can see, the Support Panel has big cutout.
That is to allow for both Snap-in and Screw-in Buttons to be used.

I don’t have any Screw-in Buttons.
So I cannot show.

That is all for TEK-CASE S1-B.
Enjoy.

[Ragnorok64]

Can this new mounting system be made to accommodate and LS-32?

[jdm714]

Not with the Seimitsu SS Mounting Plate.

I don’t know how short the exposed Shaft will be with the Seimitsu RE Mounting Plate.
I will get one to test.

[Nerrage]

Holy crap. I seriously want one. But I’m thinking something quite custom. Thankfully, since the plates will come on an individual basis, hopefully you might be able to squeeze these ideas in.

For front or back panel (Don’t know if these are interchangeable, would like to see this if it were possible. I think dual name plates would be freaking sweet. Why? You could combine your real name/handle on a single stick, or put a featured character’s name and your handle or mix-n-match etc. Either way, it sells more name plates for you, and prevents you from having to manufacture one more part, since the front and back will be the same), I’d really like to see a two 24 mm hole with a centered 30mm for dedicated guide with Neutrik outlet. However, it may be hard with the amount of available space to avoid any hassles with the name plate. Maybe it could be mounted to the face. Just pretty sure a lot of players, myself included, would like to see a 24-30-24 for their Start, Back, and Guide.

Aslo, sorry abut the SE plexi inquiries. Totally dumb of me, remembered how it’s angled downwards. Sad. I own one and forgot this. Fail.

Also @jdm714? Quite some photography. I lol’d when you said Hello BB. Marvelous. And looks really classy. Think I’m gonna do this when I order one.

Good stuff, guys. :tup:

[d3v]

Holy crap. I seriously want one. But I’m thinking something quite custom. Thankfully, since the plates will come on an individual basis, hopefully you might be able to squeeze these ideas in.

For front or back panel (Don’t know if these are interchangeable, would like to see this if it were possible. I think dual name plates would be freaking sweet. Why? You could combine your real name/handle on a single stick, or put a featured character’s name and your handle or mix-n-match etc. Either way, it sells more name plates for you, and prevents you from having to manufacture one more part, since the front and back will be the same), I’d really like to see a two 24 mm hole with a centered 30mm for dedicated guide with Neutrik outlet. However, it may be hard with the amount of available space to avoid any hassles with the name plate. Maybe it could be mounted to the face. Just pretty sure a lot of players, myself included, would like to see a 24-30-24 for their Start, Back, and Guide.

Aslo, sorry abut the SE plexi inquiries. Totally dumb of me, remembered how it’s angled downwards. Sad. I own one and forgot this. Fail.

Also @jdm714? Quite some photography. I lol’d when you said Hello BB. Marvelous. And looks really classy. Think I’m gonna do this when I order one.

Good stuff, guys. :tup:

I think you’d have to dissemble the stick to swap nameplates seeing as they’re a structural part of the stick and are mounted inside the case. That, and the back panel has the mounting for the PCBs where the nameplate would be. Also you can request a Neutrick hole if you want (there’s an example in the front page).

[Nerrage]

I think you’d have to dissemble the stick to swap nameplates seeing as they’re a structural part of the stick and are mounted inside the case. That, and the back panel has the mounting for the PCBs where the nameplate would be. Also you can request a Neutrick hole if you want (there’s an example in the front page).

I’m just talking on speculation and suggestions, of course. I’d guess that they would be designed to be easily removable, after all. Playing locally, I’d wanna have “Skate,” but if I were at Evo or Final Fight, etc., I’d prolly swap it out for “Nerrage” to be more easily identifiable to people more familiar with me through SRK, PSN, and the rest of the internetz. Having both would be freaking sweet, though. Less hassle before a major. WHich is why I suggested having a back plate interchangable with a front. Though, I didn’t know the PCB mounts were part of the back. Bit of a damper. Aw, well. Looking over the photos, though, looks like no way to get what I’d like, which is 3 buttons on the front panel. And while a side would probably work, I’m likely going to get the plates for weight. Which leaves the back and the face. I’ll likely make due, though. With whatever comes to be in stock, I certainly intend to stretch the customization to the limit!

[d3v]

I’m just talking on speculation and suggestions, of course. I’d guess that they would be designed to be easily removable, after all. Playing locally, I’d wanna have “Skate,” but if I were at Evo or Final Fight, etc., I’d prolly swap it out for “Nerrage” to be more easily identifiable to people more familiar with me through SRK, PSN, and the rest of the internetz. Having both would be freaking sweet, though. Less hassle before a major. WHich is why I suggested having a back plate interchangable with a front. Though, I didn’t know the PCB mounts were part of the back. Bit of a damper. Aw, well. Looking over the photos, though, looks like no way to get what I’d like, which is 3 buttons on the front panel. And while a side would probably work, I’m likely going to get the plates for weight. Which leaves the back and the face. I’ll likely make due, though. With whatever comes to be in stock, I certainly intend to stretch the customization to the limit!

Seems like a bit of a hassle (you should just really stick to one handle). The “nameplate” sits on the inside of the stick and functions as a structural element. This means that you’d have to open up the stick every time you wanted to change it.

Might as well have either “Skate” or “Nerrage” etched somewhere on the stick.

[jdm714]

Forgot some pictures.

If you guys cool, then you know about these Plushies.
So, who is cool person?