Can’t wait to order and get my hands on one of these. =)
Hey Art,
I was just wondering if you have plans to offer an option to cut out an area for the turbo part of the madcatz te/se sticks. I ask because I just got my girlfriend an SE stick and I have plans that when these cases are released ill gut the SE and put the turbo/guide button area and all the guts into the new plexy case.
I’m sorry if I worded my question confusingly. What I was asking was if you are going to be offering the services you currently do for the TE sticks and such. We give you our art, and you print/cut it according to the proper size for the acrylic cases. Based on your response to my oddly worded question it sounds like you will be 
Great to see you around, Dan. Lol, so it looks like you are up for the Fluorescent Green/Red combo I was talking about =). I will set aside some colors for ya.
Heh, it has been mentioned that the side panels will have a few button configurations to choose from. I’m aiming for 1 to 3 30mm buttons, or 1 to 4 24mm buttons. I haven’t set it in stone, but 3 24mm buttons on either of the side panels is no problem.
I haven’t gotten a chance to setup all the pricing for all the extra options yet. There’s a lot of details for me to prepare and I’m trying to keep pricing low as I can while keeping it worthwhile for me to do, so all that info will take some time and won’t be available until the cases are available.
Replied, thanks!
I’m afraid the cases aren’t designed specifically in mind to replace the SE/TE’s, so there will not be a turbo area setup. Keep in mind screw holes need to be created and tapped specifically for the turbo area and it’s not practical to do for one or two case orders. Sorry.
Ah yes, there will be PSD templates for the Top, Bottom and sides of the case so you can do whatever you want =)
Thanks very much!
And I can’t wait to put them into full production! =)
The cases look amazing. I wish I was lucky enough to of been a tester 
I’ll be sure to buy one when they are finally for sale. I only have one problem, I don’t know if I will want to make it a triple wireless stick or a 360/MC + rj45 stick.
I wonder what a led mod would look like in those cases?
Okay, I am finally done with this Case.
I wanted to be done on Thursday, but there were some complications.
Here is the journey:
Parts laid out.
The Diamond Joints.
Start putting the sides together using Diamond Joints.
Bottom Border.
Then the Bottom Panel with Feet.
Then I removed the Bottom Border to have easier the PCB Mounts.
I’m using stuff from Tournament Edition.
There are two holes on the PCB Mount that match up to TE PCB.
But I did not have the screws for it.
So used cable ties.
Add the Name Plate.
I have four of them. :wgrin:
Close the bottom.
Put on Acrylic Mounting Plate.
1/4" Spacers to the Control Panel.
Mount the Joystick.
Put in the Buttons.
I shaved off the little nub things under the Rim of two Buttons.
Turned out that I did not need to do that.
Now I have two Buttons that spin. :sad:
Wired up.
I forgot about the Top Border, so disconnect the wires.
It was so hard putting it on.
The Bottom Border cracked, but I think was from the Support Piece that holds PCB Mount?
Put on the Top Panel.
Now is for fun time.
I was wearing latex gloves the whole time building.
And also while I played.
Laugh.
Could I have specified for Second Player 6-Button Astro City?
I didn’t know if you could have done it, so I chose First Player.
I really like having the guide button area on my stick (shows which player I am, etc). And I like to have the turbo there for when I play old school arcade games. From what I understand you are going to be including the option to have buttons on the sides. Perhaps I could use OBSF 30’s as a substitute? One to use for a guide button, and one to press and hold down to use as a turbo activator/deactivator. I would also assume that I would have to do some soldering to make that work, which I am trying to avoid completely as I hate soldering lol. That also still leaves the two toggle switches (stick selector and lock) out of the picture. If I can’t figure my problems out I may have to rethink my purchase
Akka,
There’s no point in getting an alternate case to put in TE or HRAP PCB’s if you want Turbo support. Half the time Turbo and Home buttons in those PCB set-ups are what you call “pressure contact” buttons. They’re not directly wired to the PCB – instead, the PCB senses when they get pushed down on… there’s actually a rubber ‘suction cup-like’ between the outer button and PCB that contacts the PCB. These buttons and PCB’s like that are notoriously hard to solder to. They’re just not intended for that kind of mod. A lot of older-style joysticks before the HRAP line had their action buttons set up like this, too. PS/PS2/PS3 and most other control pads still use contact pads for their buttons, too. Most Sega control pads and controllers prior to the Agetec Dreamcast Arcade Stick have contact pad buttons, too.
Another thing to consider is if you want to participate in tournaments with a joystick. They frown on people cheating/using Turbo buttons so it really wouldn’t be in your best interest anyway to put a TE/HRAP PCB in a new case if you want that Turbo support.
As for Home/Guide buttons (speaking of PS3), you don’t need a dedicated Home button if you get a Cthulu or MC Cthulu for a new case. There’s support to add wiring or short a specific area on the MC/Cthulu PCB so that when press ‘Start’ and ‘Select’ together you automatically activate the Home/Guide function. You can put in a button for a dedicated Home/Guide function if you want it, too.
At any rate, it sounds like you’ve made up your mind and know what you want which is very good. You’ll save yourself a good wad of cash!
I don’t consider half the stuff on the TE/HRAP PCBs to be absolutely necessary. If you already have a wireless DS3 or 360 control pad, you don’t really need a Home/Guide button or lockout/analog stick switches for a joystick. The basic PS2 Hori Tekken 5 PCB functionality would be enough for most people if they took the time to think about this stuff… Home buttons are convenient on joysticks but not absolutely necessary when you have a standard control pad that has that built into it.
It would be cool to see what people can come up with. How about you give the tripple mod plus LED mod all a try =D.
Hey guys. I should have some new updates on some new modification options to the cases soon. One being the ability to add more weight to the stick, and another is adding another 1/8" panel under the top panel for more support for those who feel they may hit the top quite hard. This still doesn’t mean you should go gung-ho on it, but it’ll be an option to explore.
Very beautiful pics and details. Thanks for your efforts! I almost don’t even need to make the video tutorial, lol.
Oh about the border, that’s one of the things I will point out in my video. Aside from going into too much technical detail, the kerf made from the laser cutter may have a very slight angle due to the len’s focal points on thicker material. This can make one side’s kerf “thinner” on one side than the another. In the case of the slots being made to snuggly fit with the PCB and Nameplate “tabs”, it could end up being tighter on one side. If you feel it’s hard to press in on one side, flip the border around and it should be easier.
Because I haven’t had the chance to make the video I couldn’t point this out yet, and it probably doesn’t make a lot of sense in writing (even after I typed it above, it’s still a little hard to understand). Regardless, I’m slightly increasing the tab openings for an easier fit on both sides.
As for Astro City P2 buttons, yes I can do that too =).
And Latex gloves are a great idea to prevent finger prints from getting all over the place.
I’d like to hear about your playing experiences.
Thanks again for your efforts!
Yeah sorry dude, a TE/SE turbo guide area isn’t going to be an option any time soon. My cases may not fit your need at this time.
Yes, I thought one side would be different from the other.
I flipped over to see while placing the plates.
Laugh.
I didn’t want to fill the Thread with my pictures with all the details.
I leave the assembling instructions to your video.
So the details are only for me to see.
Laugh.
I really appreciate your reply. I found it very informative and after sitting on it for a little bit it really changed my outlook on the guide/turbo area. My question now is, as a nooby, what would I need, and what would I need to leave out, when transferring SE guts to the acrylic cases? I can handle swapping buttons, sticks, all just fine. Its the PCB boards/soldering where I need someone to hold my hand.
-I would assume that I could disconnect the Start/Select region and replace those wires with new ones and crimps to use some 24mm or 30mm Sanwas instead (like the TE).
-The Home/Turbo board, would I just disconnect that entirely from the other PCB board?
-And the little board labeled “???” What is that? Do I need it?
The other things such as the PCBs with the wires for the buttons I obviously need. Its just those main ones that I asked direct questions over that I need some clarification. What else would I need to make this stick work on 360? I’m sorry for all the questions. I just really want one of these cases and want to get everything I need before they are released. Thanks for the help and patience guys.
Yes, you would have to cut the connectors off the Start/Select wires and crimp on .110" Quick Disconnects.
You just get rid of the Turbo PCB, yes.
Disconnect entirely.
That is the Microphone PCB.
So, you would only need two things of the Mad Catz SE stuff.
The two things on the bottom, that look like in my pictures.
And you just need the two ribbons that connect the PCB to Terminal Strip where the Buttons are.
Then you just need that black Wire Harness for your Joystick.
Thanks for the help JDM! What would I need in order to activate The 360 Dashboard? That way I can send/accept invites?
One of the three ribbons that connect to the Turbo, one of them does Guide.
It is labeled on the main PCB.
So what you do is just cut off the connector.
Crimp on Quick Disconnect.
Put to a Button.
you could always have someone cut the turbo guide for you later? worse case scenario couldent you rig the home/guide button to say the select button? you dont really need the select button. i havent really looked into how the turbo/guide area is wired but it could be a possibility.
SNCR was pretty fun. Art, do I have some feedback for you :rock:
Had an issue where screw-ins came unscrewed and fell out. I had some aggressive people playing on them (Valle BODIED FilipinoChamp’s Dhalsim with his Guy 
and FChamp beat Marn in two seperate FTxs (forgot how many matches). ShinJN explained why this happened, but I don’t exactly remember what he said (I do have a transcript of sorts, which I’ll get directly to Art). He basically said because the plexi is so smooth, screw-ins will NOT be able to hold securely and reliably; more friction is ideal. However, snap-ins will be perfectly fine. This doesn’t apply to all potential customers, but the possibility is definitely there (think PS-14KNs). A solution had to do with notching the panel so the screw-ins have something to hold onto… I’ll get Art the exact words ShinJN said, so check back or post up a question if it isn’t addressed in the next Art update.
In summary, though, most people said…
- For it’s size, it needs an appropriate weight. It was put this way; for the SE, the light weight is fine, because it’s a small stick. But for something larger, you want something more substantial.
- Customization potential is a HUGE draw. People have suggested the option for three buttons on the back panel (Start/Select/Guide), placing them in different places (eg, back left instead of back right), extra PCB mounting options and solutions, custom button layouts, support for American parts, etc. What people have said (and I agree) is that since it IS a DIY case that was made to be modular, being customizable to a very high degree should definitely be part of the product.
- More options CAN confuse customers, but some people suggested offering the case as it is now (with it’s current options) as a base option. Other, more complex configs (more height depth to accomodate American sticks, universal mounting, custom button layouts) could be available as a more expensive, custom option. Only issue I see is that production can be slowed down due to the custom nature of these orders, so you can charge a fair premium for this service.
- People really liked the look of the stick and explicitly told me so (Alex Valle liked it, FilipinoChamp liked it, MarkMan
liked it, ShinJN liked it, James Chen liked it… on and on. And, of course, all the other people that asked and told me they liked it too :D) - People really really liked the look of the stick (I knew it looked cool, but it got quite a few inquiries and curious looks :D).
liked it, ShinJN liked it, James Chen liked it… on and on. And, of course, all the other people that asked and told me they liked it too :D)You don’t know how many people asked me if I was Art Hong
Also, after having used it in tourney (on my lap), I can honestly say I didn’t really notice the weight difference too much. There were a few times where it felt different, but not noticably so. My combos were all hitting, I was able to plink, and everything felt fine (I swear I can successfully plink HK~MK a bit easier on Art’s case than my two TEs). Then again, do consider I am light on my stick. Valle expressed that it felt fine - just like a Japanese part equipped stock stick - but probably because it was so light, he felt like the stick “wasn’t there” and it felt a bit awkward at times. He didn’t seem to pull any punches on his joystick rotating and hard button presses, and it held up fine.
Regarding durability, it travelled in a very lightly padded backpack, cushioned between a few T shirts. It was packed in with quite a lot of stuff and it survived the trip to and from SNCR.
Other than some wiring issues (my own fault entirely), the stick worked great.
Looking forward to seeing your reply, Art! And check your inbox soon :tup:
Excellent! Because art is going to be doing extra button slots on the sides if we want them right? So ill have start select on top, guide on the side. Thanks for the help JDM!
Gonna try to get some updates on new add-ons for the case, particularly the weight slots and extra support to the top panel for those who would like it. Also got in my LS-56 so I will look into a plexi mount for that and the LS-32 along with height checking. Also gotta figure out the threading of the screws for those mounts. A lot going on so I’ll try to update with pics and details soon as I can. Thanks all!
Dude, that’s awesome! Thanks for the details of your experience. I will have to chat with you soon for more info. It’s quite exciting that all those people have had a chance to check out the case and play with it. Man, if only there was a video of that =). Alright bud I will touch up with you on PM. Thanks again!
Yep, extra buttons all around if you want =)
@arthong
bro, i would like to order your product at the first picture. i’m using the sixaxis PCB for the custom arcade, 6 buttons layout like TE. i’m at indonesia, how much does it gonna costs?? thanks a lot man
From the FAQ in the second post…
There is more details that will address your other question and more then likely any other questions in the FAQ. Please read it.