Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases

[wikidone0321]

Will you offer the laser etchings with the top mounted and/or bottom art with these like you do with the panel replacements or is that in later models?

[arthong]

Thanks again everyone. It’s a crazy week for me so my correspondence is a bit limited. But here’s some quick answers before I’m back to work.

I really want to purchase one of these but do you have with keyboard layouts, ie stick replaced by keyboard buttons. I’m also concerned that there’d need to be some sort of wrist support aswell.

This may come later when I open up the custom panel builder for the case. But it’s a bit further down the road so I can’t give an estimate on that.

Errrrrr… Impressed!

Ahoy Doomy! How goes UK business =)

Sold. Can’t wait for a release date and price… Are you going to be selling templates for the top as well? I’m thinking purple case with my Akuma, Juri, Chun li template for the top (same as the one I just purchased from you actually lol) except for this case’s size. Semitsu skellies, clear purple ball top. And Akuma Ten symbols on the corners like you did in your sample pictures. It’s going to be glorious.

Now I just need to learn the PCB stuff so I can get it to work on my 360 lol

Thanks, but I don’t do my own artwork nor will I sell artwork that is not mine so you’ll have to submit your own artwork to be used.

Ok well I got someone that can put it together for me so its in August or October when they will be available to buy and it start out at $60 right including like my name engrave in it or that would cost extra?

Good question. I’ll update my Q&A later with this info, but here it is in a nutshell.

Here are all the default options:

*Top Panel = Clear

• Any Preset Button Configuration (ie: Vewlix, Blast City P1 & P2, UMK, Capcom 6 buttons, T5)
• Certain configs defaults with 8 buttons, but you will have a 6 button option.
• Can be flipped for Lefty controls (Joystick on right, buttons on left).

*Bottom Panel = Clear

*Front Panel = Clear

• Choice of S/S buttons on either left/right sides or none
• Choice of Neutrik hole on left or right side, or just wire opening

*Back Panel = Clear

***Side Panels x 2 = Clear **

• Choice of preset 24mm or 30mm holes on either piece, or none.
• Preset holes can be up to 3 30mm holes, or up to 4 24mm holes. (This may change)

*Name Plate = Clear

• Includes your personal Name/Handle/Small phrase cut into it.

*PCB Plate = Clear

• Includes 2x PCB Holders and 2x wire loop in clear.

*Diamond Joints x 8 = Clear (only clear for now)

• Will include one extra in case accidental break or stripping.

*Rubber Feet x 4

***Screws **= All that you need to complete the case.

All the above is included at the starting price of $60 (Does not include S/H).

Here’s one more thing I’m still considering how to include the JLF Plexi mounts. Because of the extra costs with the JLF m3 screws and other factors I could not add this in to fit within the basic $60 pricing. Also, since you can use a regular JLF metal plate to mount the joystick a the JLF plexi mount is considered an option. However, it does seem a little silly to not include the JLF plexi mount in the package since it adds to the whole scheme of the case. I may add $2 to the total for the JLF Plexi mount & screws rather than making it an option and possibly confuse some people, so the start may actually be $62… it takes away from the $60 start price as I intended… so I’m still playing with it in my head. What do you guys think? Adding that $2 ok with you?

Additional option pricing will be announced either here or on the website when they are finalized.

i got the sanwa’s parts (1 JLF, 6 action buttons and 2 select and start button in reds) do you have the art work the suitable for my parts…??

As jdm mentions, I do not make or sell any artwork. That will be decided by you to submit to me.

There’s a purple mirror acrylic tear drops…

Let me know who I have to kill to get an arrangement for some of that lol.

• :bluu:

Been crazy busy or I’d have given you samples pics of how they look. The Colored mirrored is a bit extra but I may start a poll later to see how many people are interested in certain mirror colors which will help me determine if I should buy certain ones in bulk. If/when I create that poll with sample pics I’ll update here.

Will you be supplying all screws? and will there be a wire slot like on the TE?

All necessary screws are supplied. Wire Slot, as in “Wire Opening” is a default configuration. More examples will clarify when I have a chance to make the tutorial video

I can’t front, I wish I was in a room with all the parts in all the colors to try and piece together the look I want…I just know mirror and purple acrylic lol…I’m still in disbelief at how hot that is.

Are those corner pieces custom or is it premade designed?
-:bluu:

If by corner pieces you mean the Diamond Joints, jdm is correct and they are 1/4" acrylic, and only in one design. If you’re referring to the Side Decors, they will start off with premade designs. I will consider custom options to see how feasable it is to work with. It’s pretty hard to have people follow every bit of my written instructions on the site, so I have to see how worthwhile it is to me and the customer to work on custom pieces. Time will tell.

I’m planning to build my first full custom arcade stick with one of these acrylic cases, and putting in the RJ-45 MC Cthulhu+ IMP+ Xbox 360 Dual Mod Tutorial Diagram mod… I was wondering if there was enough room/pcb storage space? to accommodate 3 different pcbs? Can I put 3 PCB plates inside? Sorry for the easy questions, this will be my first advance project.

Do i really need 3 pcb plates or is it easy to make the imp, etc, stay in place inside the case?

The case has two pcb holders designated for pcb placement which are designed for CTHULHU sizes, but they can still support various PCB sizes by ziptying or other methods of securing to the pcb holders. But because there are 2 pcb holders, it doesn’t mean you’re limited to only placing 2 pcbs in the case. There’s adequate room within the case to place 3 pcbs, but you’ll probably have to be a little inventive on how you’re going to secure them.

Yang;8954428’]Hi there, you have plans on doing some of these cases for a Korean stick ( Fanta myoungshin actually ) in the future?

I love your art in cases, i’m gonna buy one for sure!

If I figure out a good way to secure a universal mount, this may happen. Or I may get a Korean stick down the line and see about it’s alignment with the panel. Not sure yet, we’ll see.

This is very awesome. Art, congratz to you and I really hope you are successful with this product. I may just buy one but it depends when it will be released and if I have the $$$ lol.

Two suggestions:

1. You said in the Q&A that the plastic may become stripped due to multiple screwing in and out. One suggestion for that is for the screw areas that are screwed a lot like the top and bottom panel can have a flat screw bottom + nut combo instead of the pointy screws.
   Also, theres these things that are made of metal that take screws. One of the stick builder on here using them in his wood cases so that the wood doesn’t get stripped. I can’t remember the name of them.
2. I’m still worried about the 1/8 top panel. Most stick builders (including myself) at least put a lower support for the plexi top. I actually use 2, a 1/4th real wood and a 1/8th hardboard. It may incease the total price from what you want to sell them for, but consider changing the top panel size to at least 1/4th. It will make a lot more people confident, including me.

Thanks for the insights, Canto. But I’ve taken a lot of the mentioned into consideration and a bit of time before I’ve come upon this project. I didn’t just jump into it without thought, lol. After successful testing and sales of the 1/8" Plexi Replacement Panels (if you’re not familiar with them, check them out on my website or the youtube video in post#2 Q&As), it has been determined that 1/8" plexi is strong enough for button mashing and extensive use. My TE’s plexi replacement is still in perfect condition after 3 months of on and off play. Of course I mention the limitations of not slamming on it in a crazed rage… even 1/4" will succumb to damage if you treat it like a metal plate.

But with a lot of thought, tests and feedback on previous products, this is the result. There are also more color options in 1/8" than 1/4". I’ve already mentioned in my Q&A where you cannot treat it like a metal case, and certain care should be considered. If people agree to it, then they will have a long lasting case. If they do not agree, then there are plenty other cases to choose from =)

As for the Diamond Joints, the sides have nuts to secure the screws. The top is tapped. That part does not have a nut combo because of the method in which it was made. A lot of consideration was taken to decide whether to go the nut combo for that part and end up charging more for the extra labor, or to go this route for a cheaper alternative. Believe me, a lot has been considered and for the case to start at a solid $60, these are the results.

And JDM is under advise from me to not reveal too much info until further discussion. But he will soon give you a lot more info from his personal experience =)

Can they survive being dropped? I’d be so scared to play on them… Still so beautiful looking.

I’ve tested a 3ft drop onto carpet, but of course it’s a YMMV sort of thing. On hardwood floor it’s likely something may crack. It is plastic afterall. If you drop your TE from a high enough distance and on a hard enough surface, you’re likely to get part of the plastic to crack. But again, should an unfortunate accident happen to part of the case, there are parts to easily replace it back to new =).

[GeorgeC]

Is there any way to mount transparent art on the thing besides underneath the faceplate (glued?) or the bottom?

Do they even print art (at any printers) on transparent cel sheets like old-style animation? Xerox?

Looks like a nice option… Price isn’t bad at all for a custom non-wood case!

I’m taking it that the transparent case will also support the Seimitsu LS-32-01, LS-40-01, LS-55-01, and LS-56-01?

I really want to get away from the Sanwa JLF for most customizing projects… Still going to use Sanwa buttons or Seimitsu Pearls for main action, though.

[jdm714]

Oh man, I didn’t consider that Unreallystic may have meant the Side Decors when said corner pieces.

I’m going to do some stress tests.
Probably even throw down onto concrete from ten feet.

[arthong]

Is there any way to mount transparent art on the thing besides underneath the faceplate (glued?) or the bottom?

Do they even print art (at any printers) on transparent cel sheets like old-style animation? Xerox?

Looks like a nice option… Price isn’t bad at all for a custom non-wood case!

I’m taking it that the transparent case will also support the Seimitsu LS-32-01, LS-40-01, LS-55-01, and LS-56-01?

I really want to get away from the Sanwa JLF for most customizing projects… Still going to use Sanwa buttons or Seimitsu Pearls for main action, though.

If you can get a transparent print, you can sandwich it with a clear thin top or bottom, there’s no need to specifically place it underneath the panel unless there’s a very specific reason you want it that way. As for the Seimitsu joysticks, there’s info on that in the Q&A section of this thread. Post #2

Oh man, I didn’t consider that Unreallystic may have meant the Side Decors when said corner pieces.

I’m going to do some stress tests.
Probably even throw down onto concrete from ten feet.

You should record that. Do what the guy does with new releases of video consoles, like PS3 and Xbox360 where he’s like the first in line to buy and he sledge hammers the system.

Oh… and no warranty for you =P.

[zerofxi]

i got a question.

on the front panel wouldn’t it be a good idea to add another hole for the guide button for those that would like to have one? i hope there is an option for that when this thing goes live.

[arthong]

i got a question.

on the front panel wouldn’t it be a good idea to add another hole for the guide button for those that would like to have one? i hope there is an option for that when this thing goes live.

When you say another hole, what size hole are we talking about? And would this hole be preferred over a hole on one of the side or front panels instead where there’s less chance of accidentally hitting it?

[wikidone0321]

my questions didn’t get answered

[arthong]

Will you offer the laser etchings with the top mounted and/or bottom art with these like you do with the panel replacements or is that in later models?

Ah, you snuck your post in while I was making my reply, lol. To answer your question, yes. There will be etching options on various parts of the case including the Top and Bottom.

[wikidone0321]

awesome! and thx for the reply!

[jdm714]

Okay, let us go by just math calculations for now.
And using the numbers from slagcoin.com because I’m getting the same measurements with my caliper.

So we all know that standard Shaft Height for Japanese Joysticks from Control Panel to bottom of Handle is 23-24mm.
Thickness of Mounting Plates from Sanwa and Seimitsu Catalogs say 1.50mm being.
But I’m getting measurement of 1.60mm with my caliper.
But we’ll go with 1.50mm for now.

Shaft Height of JLF from Mounting Plate to bottom of Ball Top is 32mm.
Your Control Panels are 3.175mm (1/8").
Your Spacers are 6.35mm (1/4").

So that is 22.475mm for Shaft Height from Control Panel to bottom of Ball Top.
With an Acrylic Mounting Plate, it will be 20.8mm from Control Panel to bottom of Ball Top.

*Wow, are Shaft Heights really being like this?
I’m just doing calculations, not doing actual measurements.

Shaft Height of Seimitsu LS-32(-01) from Mounting Plate to bottom of Ball Top is 27.5mm being.
Your Control Panels are 3.175mm (1/8").
Your Spacers are 6.35mm (1/4").

So that is 17.975mm for Shaft Height from Control Panel to bottom of Ball Top.
With an Acrylic Mounting Plate, it will be 16.3mm from Control Panel to bottom of Ball Top.

*Wow, are Shaft Heights really being like this?
I’m just doing calculations, not doing actual measurements.

As can see, the Seimitsu LS-32 and LS-32-01 will always be that short to the JLF if use RE Mounting Plate (Flat).
With the SS Mounting Plate, it lets for LS-32 and LS-32-01 be more of the JLF height, because the SS Mounting Plate (S-shape) gives a +5mm.

The part I’m confuse is how you are getting LS-32 to be close to JLF.
Unless a difference of 5mm or something is not a lot to you.

Again, these are all just calculations from known measurements alone.
I don’t have have a JLF mounted with Acrylic Mounting Plate onto 1/8" to really know.

Just waiting for your pictures.

[Matty]

August!? I need a UMK3 stick right now and don’t want to waste money on something else now that I have seen these =/ What do I have to do to get one early, Art? I’ll do anything… anything.

I assume you can do custom button layouts on these just like the TE replacement panels?

Also, do these cases have enough clearance for Sanwa OBSF-30RGs? If you want to send me a early case I can test it out lol

Edit: Thought of something else… Have you thought about doing some kind of compartment on the backside that you could put the start/back/home buttons in and maybe store a usb cable? Kind of like the TE stick with the cable storage… Would probably look pretty cool and stop people from accidently hitting those buttons.

[arthong]

Okay, let us go by just math calculations for now.
And using the numbers from slagcoin.com because I’m getting the same measurements with my caliper.
snip

No you’re right, it is slightly shorter. I didn’t account for the minor slant the HRAP SE has, so my first attempt at quickly gauging it was a little off. So I tried to match the slant a bit more tonight and I can see the slight difference a bit more. But there’s a potential solution to move the stick up.

The way my spacers work now is that you apply the 1/4" spacers, mount, then 3/32" spacers, which helps even out the screw length to the panel. So what we can do is swap the 3/32" spacers with the 1/4" spacers like so:

______________________________ <- Panel
= <- 1/4" spacer
---------- <- LS-32 flat Mount

• <- 3/32" spacer

And do this instead

______________________________ <- Panel

• <- 3/32" spacer
  ---------- <- LS-32 flat Mount
  = <- 1/4" spacer

Perhaps that should work better. Or even replace the 3/32" spacers with the 1/16" to move it up even more. I’ll have to make a tutorial on this. Thanks for the details.

August!? I need a UMK3 stick right now and don’t want to waste money on something else now that I have seen these =/ What do I have to do to get one early, Art? I’ll do anything… anything.

I assume you can do custom button layouts on these just like the TE replacement panels?

Also, do these cases have enough clearance for Sanwa OBSF-30RGs? If you want to send me a early case I can test it out lol

Edit: Thought of something else… Have you thought about doing some kind of compartment on the backside that you could put the start/back/home buttons in and maybe store a usb cable? Kind of like the TE stick with the cable storage… Would probably look pretty cool and stop people from accidently hitting those buttons.

Sorry dude, but at this point in time August is still the date. I can’t drop everything and start production any earlier with everything else on my plate in the next few weeks. If I can, I will announce it.

As for extra compartment. I’ve run some ideas through my head, but the fact that a compartment is best made with hinges and locking mechanism, there’s a bit more to consider for a DIY concept and laser cut pieces without any adhesive/gluing element to it. So that will be on the drawing board.

[jdm714]

Cool, cool.
Thinner Spacers would definitely help the LS-32(-01).

I’m sorry arthong.
I feel as I have done something bad. :sad:

[GeorgeC]

I went back and read the first two posts…

They answered most of my questions but I do have a general comment, Art.

You do know that the LS-32-01 comes standard with an S-shaped mounting plate?

It looks like all your JPEGs show the LS-32 which comes standard with a flat mounting plate. (Why Seimitsu uses different mount plates for sticks that differ basically only with a PCB 5-pin in the -01 version is beyond me but that’s how they pack them!)

Most players get the LS-32-01 because of the easier to use and more compatible 5-pin harness connect. The universal mounts for both the Mad Catz TE and Hori HRAP SA/SE(?) lines were designed with the standard LS-32-01 S-shaped mounting plate in mind. Of course, most of us know by now (thanks to JDM!) that there are flat mounts for all the other Seimitsu 5-pin harness sticks that are generally compatible with the JLF mounting position.

Granted, for most of us dropping $60 and then spending $5 more for a flat mount might not be THAT big a deal but for the more budget-conscious it’s going to force them to drop an option (Buttons? Acrylic flames? ) or postpone a buy of a case…

I’m only harping about this because generally speaking the LS-32-01 is the Number 2 stick of choice behind the JLF for many players.

[jdm714]

Well people would be spending the extra on Acrylic Mounting Plate for their LS-32-01 right?
Same as those who buy for their JLF?

[ViciousXUSMC]

Optimally Art gets the universal mount thing down made of acrylic, it seems like something he can do and then just charge the $2.00 more for it like he was saying. Then no matter if you have the LS-32 or the LS-32-01 you can just use the acrylic mount. I do not think many people would be interested in using the standard metal mounting plate on the LS-32-01 even if there was an easy way for it to work considering its a clear type case.

[jdm714]

So, something plopped in front of my door.
And I brought it in not knowing, right?

It took a peek.

BAM!

jdm714 is me.

Here is comparison to a TE which has the Sides from TE S.

These are just quick shots.
I don’t have time to do detail right now, because doing my Final and Paper.

The color is Light Blue.
The Button Layout is Astro City.

Will be back in four hours for more pictures.
Maybe.

[System_1]

No you’re right, it is slightly shorter. I didn’t account for the minor slant the HRAP SE has, so my first attempt at quickly gauging it was a little off. So I tried to match the slant a bit more tonight and I can see the slight difference a bit more. But there’s a potential solution to move the stick up.

The way my spacers work now is that you apply the 1/4" spacers, mount, then 3/32" spacers, which helps even out the screw length to the panel. So what we can do is swap the 3/32" spacers with the 1/4" spacers like so:

______________________________ <- Panel
= <- 1/4" spacer
---------- <- LS-32 flat Mount

• <- 3/32" spacer

And do this instead

______________________________ <- Panel

• <- 3/32" spacer
  ---------- <- LS-32 flat Mount
  = <- 1/4" spacer

Perhaps that should work better. Or even replace the 3/32" spacers with the 1/16" to move it up even more. I’ll have to make a tutorial on this. Thanks for the details.

Sorry dude, but at this point in time August is still the date. I can’t drop everything and start production any earlier with everything else on my plate in the next few weeks. If I can, I will announce it.

As for extra compartment. I’ve run some ideas through my head, but the fact that a compartment is best made with hinges and locking mechanism, there’s a bit more to consider for a DIY concept and laser cut pieces without any adhesive/gluing element to it. So that will be on the drawing board.

So I’m guessing the acrylic cases are up for purchase cause I just saw someone posting pictures of them receiving a acrylic case…

[jdm714]

I’m actually one of the Testers.