oh haha yeah the first time it happened it was even funnier… he saw my drill case and asked me what it was… then i turned the case so he couldnt see what was inside as i opened it… grabbed the drill and put it on his chest and pulled the trigger… he jumped 5 feet back into my friend who bear hugged him… then i did it again and he yelled “i’m getting raped!” hahah
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/254/20110809102547857.jpg
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6968/20110809102604287.jpg
Hey guys, just wondering where I solder the power wire onto the PCB board, also it appears there is some sort of clear coat on the board, does this need to be removed first? Do you only need to solder the power to the USB top left connection on the PCB or a different one? Also, do you need to wire a ground as well or does it simply need power? Last question, do I need to connect any of the activation wires to the bottom of sparky or do you just connect the common LED black wires on top like I already have it…thanks for all the help
There might be some hotglue on the PCB… i don’t ever recall there being any, but if there is you should pull it off… anyhow, the PCB should be labeled… power is usually labeled VCC or +5v…
alternately you can try to follow the red wire coming in from the usb cable and tap that… it should run to the 360 PCB… that might be more difficult to solder to, and i know that has hotglue on it for sure… also keep in mind that power has to be fed back to the turbo panel, so if you follow the ribbon cable that connects the 360 PCB back to the turbo panel, its going to be one of those pins… i’ll see if i can take a pic and post it later tonite with the exact location highlighted…
Sparky needs a ground connection too of course. You can use the same method to tap ground that you use to tap the button signals (however you decided to do that). Best to ask Sparky related questions in the Sparky thread for benefit of all sparky users…
Thanks for the help, sorry for being the annoying amateur…
Hello, Im not going to get into to Boards here. But im going to build a Hitbox for a user and the Board i have will power 11 Arceyes. but I need 12. Is it possible to wire the 12th one directly to power? they will all be running white. and the 12th button will be a rarely used on like 4-kick. but for completeness id like to have all of them working. Even if the cool transition effects doesn’t work on one. But How can i wire it to allow button push activation?
Yes you can wire the common connection directly to power, and the desired color(s) to ground.
HOWEVER, usb only provides 500ma of power. A 360/PS3 controller consumes up to 120ma, leaving you with 380 left to power LEDs
Each color on the ArcEye will take 40ma, and if 3 colors makes white, that means lighting up all 3 will eat another 120ma.
So depending on how you wired your other 11 button LEDs, there may or may not be enough power to do what you want.
RGB LEDs are really only possible on USB powered joysticks because of intelligent controllers like Sparky or FGWidget, that pulse the lights in sequence so fast that they all appear to be on at the same time. But in reality, only one LED is ever on at a given time.
Ok so going to a color may be safer since its less draw.
i just wish the FGWidget would do 12 instead of 11. and the sparky well… to be in stock and to have more than 8.
I know most of this is for the “FGWidget” board. but i stay this last question for the LEDs themselves. if I set up the useless “LT” button straight to power can you point me to directions on how i can make it a momentary switch with that Seimitsu button?
Ive seen some modders with what looks like custom boards. I wonder if i can be pointed in the direction to graphs.
You mean you want the LED to light up on button press? its as easy as connecting the common pin to power, and the desired color to the signal terminal of the button…
ok i just didnt want to splice in and have the power short out the PCB.
Thank you PurpleArms. I should have an order out to you this week.
Nah that shouldn’t happen… worst case is if you connect ground (desired color) to the wrong button terminal (direct to ground), it’ll be lit all the time (in which case you can just switch it to the other terminal to get light up on button press)…
And the absolute worst thing you can do is plug power from your power source to one of the ground pins (i.e., one of the colors) and ground to the common (power) pin… that will fry the LED…
the cable harness i send out is usually meant for sparky (daisy chaining the arc-eyes). If you’re using fgwidget, i can send you the longer 450mm RGB cables instead… just send me a reminder
made my order…hehe!
you’ve single handedly bought 15% of my remaining stock lol
well the ones i bought were for future clients and for my personal sticks and mewlix project…but it mainly when to friends and their stick modding i did for them and i therefore dont have enough for my mewlix project and personal sticks…same story for my sparky boards…no clients since i am still a flounder in the deep sea of modders that are huge so what can ya do lol.
Only that much?
Thought you bought more. :sad:
will the arceyes 2 fitwork with the new sanwa clear buttons i get my set tomorrow
unfortunately i dont think so… in sanwas, the cap colides with the PCB itself… a solution is slow cooking in my head…
AE2 may not be the end of it after all
once AE2 is sold out, thats all she wrote… i won’t discount the possibility of a AE3, but my focus now is to sell off my stock before i even sit down to consider it…
AE3…hotness!..but sadness when the AE2 is sold out T_T
I hope theres a way to get the AE to fit the new sanwa but if anything Rollie + sanwa microswitch.
unfortunately, it doesnt fit… you can try to undermount it with some hot glue (and drill some holes were the LEDs are so the light shines through, if the button body is not clear)