I’m getting a Brook and want to get an idea of whats in that area.
I figure back = Share, Xbox = PS home, and Turbo be the TPkey. Not sure if the turbo selector can be repurposed for DP/LS/RS or just leave it dead.
Hi
When I tried using the 360 vlx with a toodles six axis wireless mod, I could not get the Xbox button to work as ps, I used turbo for ps and back for select.
No soldering required, you can thread a cable into the connector of the wiring harness for the home/back/turbo panel
The turbo panel has 2 harnesses, make sure you connect to both of their grounds, then thread one signal wire to back and turbo.
Don’t know which ones which, except that they both on the first connector. 5 holes on the connector try each one and press the button each time and eliminate
BTW there is a labelled pic of what you ask in the og vlx thread, I’m on my phone otherwise I would link it for you
Plug and play solution…
Its a 360 stick .
Yea, I thought about that and how nice it makes it but quite a bit of cost just to save on cutting some wires. And Honestly I was aiming to keep the current wiring intact to put into a Mad Catz TE1 that likes to mess up, so I figured Id gut the wirign on that and try and move the Hori bits to that if it could be done without too much damage.
That it is.
Im mean the ez mod only works with ps4 vlxes, not the 360 vlx (afaik)
The Brook UFB came in so plan to start this tomorrow. I soldered to the pads sticking out, so I’ll leave the harnesses intact for now.
Any ideas how to solder the Player LEDs in this case?
I saw 1 wire was for each and I guess the 6th looks like its shared to them but going through some resistors. Would the brooks VCC go to that perhaps?
Well for those who may wonder, come here in the future.
From left to right it looks like for first harness
1: Player 4 LED
2: Player 3 LED
3: Player 1 LED
4: Player 2 LED
5: Xbox guide button
6: VCC perhaps? (confirmed, wired this to the VCC on brook and got p1 and p2 leds working fine. I dont think Ill need 3 and 4.)
7: Ground
2nd harness
1: Back button
2: Turbo button
3: Turbo slider 1
4: Turbo slider 2
5: Turbo slider 3
6: Turbo LED?
Theres a section on the top where the harness is soldered to the bottom and leaves plenty of room to solder on top, so I’m leaving the harness intact in the event I want to put the Hori’s PCB back in.
Due to how the Turbo 3 way slider is, I don’t think it can be used for the Dpad/Right stick/Left stick selector like other sticks have. Those seem to bridge between 4 pins, 1+2, 2+3, 3+4. This turbo selector looks shares 1 contact across all 3, so I think something like 1+ground, 2+ground, 3+ground.
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Brief follow up, but xbox button worked fine as PS button. Back = options, Turbo = Touchpad. I only soldered to 1 ground, and it works fine. Even found a small 4 pin harness from a rockband2 drum pcb I yanked out, so I wired up just 3 wires from it, vcc, p1 led and p2 led, plugged it into the brook pcb and those work fine as well.
Oh man, are you the guy who had to disassemble his VLX and dunk it in a trashcan because of roaches? That’s the best thread on this site
Don’t you know it! I refuse to give this thing up after all the work I did.
And not a trashcan, I think thats when I was spit balling ideas. The highlights were, I opened it and a small spider ran out, and there were several dead roach carapaces and legs all over. When I popped one of the white side caps off, there was a live bed bug there. Lastly, the creepiest, is when I fully broke it down and unscrewed the hinge and found a teeny baby bedbug. Just time, Clorox wipes, and some WD40, and its good. The PCB part still has a hint of roach stink in it. You just can’t get that out really. That lacquer absorbs it.
Also I don’t like to focus too much on the bottom of it, theres that foam padding and then the cutouts for the screws. If I look close I can see dead legs/chunks sometimes, or at least the paranoia does.
Man, I salute you for never saying die. That (and the one where the kid had painted and stuffed foam inside a TE1) are my two favourite stick restoration stories on this site.
Thanks. Can you link me the TE1 story? I dont think I know that one.
I have a TE1 as well that acts up. So i gutted all the wiring and used that for my VLX to keep the original wiring and pcb intact. That TE1 was given to me also by the same guy with the vlx, but before the “incident”.