if you want to post some photos sure, but Phreakazoid would be the expert on this.
When you plug it into your PC with start held down, do you see anything in the game controllers window? I just want a name, it won’t actually report inputs or anything. I think it should come up as dual strike HID or something… it’s been literal years since I’ve worked with it. I doubt it’s user error, the dual strike had weird issues that we never nailed down as to why it would just die, it’s one of the main reasons I did my own.
If it does come up, you probably just need to reflash the dual strike chip, I’d just grab their latest firmware since the bug I mentioned in that post is long taken care of IIRC.
https://github.com/IvIePhisto/Dual-Strike/blob/master/Firmware/Releases/Dual_Strike_Firmware_V3.3.1_Update.zip?raw=true
You should still be able to find an update_firmware_168.bat or something similar, so long as it’s for the 168 (atmega168) and not just for the 8 (atmega8).
If it wasn’t a round 1 I’d just tell you to update to a cerberus, but that becomes more hairy and involved when it’s the older variant.
Have a quick question. I know the bottom row of the barrier strip is ground however is the start and select bottom row as well? Or is it the top one that is ground and the bottom one the signals. I only ask because the start and select button are not working. The stock PCB is a ps3 PCB te
And the other one is 360
The whole bottom row is ground, all signals are on top.
Hmm well what could be the issue to thr start and select working the switch in the turbo panel is not locked
Is there a proper technique to using a fightstick? There’s a thread where people are mentioning not to ride the gate. Anything else I should be aware of?
This is my first fightstick and sadly there were almost no arcades here aside from the odd place here and there which would have a pac-man/galaga cocktail table or space invaders, asteroids or whatever other older game cabinet (which were awesome) so I don’t have a whole lot of experience with using these things for quick inputs.
then why use one? arcade sticks are the least advantageous when it comes to fighting games these days (unfortunately). A control pad or hitbox would put you at a distinct advantage from the get-go.
Because since I was a kid I always wanted an arcade cabinet. It was rare that I got to play metal slug or some other game (usually found while travelling) but I absolutely loved it. It’s so satisfying to play with these things and it was an absolute treat to use them. Sadly by the time I grew up to travel on my own and go to arcades in a nearby city they more or less all vanished. Bringing in a decent arcade kit or non-shitty cabinet is about $2000 and up. A fightstick lets me have the next best thing for a fraction of the cost.
Honestly after a few hours with this thing playing street fighter, metal slug and space invaders, while I’ve been knocked back to having to practise fireballs while I get used to it, it is so much fun and satisfying to use. Worth every penny.
I have to disagree that arcade sticks are inferior to d pads from an objective standpoint. I understand preferring pads (preference being inherently a subjective thing), but having access to 6 or 8 buttons with your fingers permits techniques that are difficult to impossible on a pad. Surely you’ve played games on a pad where you had to use “the claw” for certain button combinations? And shoulder buttons, while useable, are less than ideal for ease of use when doing specials/supers, particularly with the left hand.
One could make a better case for the hit box, objectively speaking, but certainly not a pad.
Not true. Not true at all.
Seriously This is SRK here, if you are going to bash sticks, you really need to go somewhere else and not post on these forums.
Where a stick becomes advantageous is that your body can make quicker motions with your wrist and arm than you can with just your fingers, you got so many larger muscles working for you.
The disadvantage is for those who are new at stick play need to develop the muscle memory before stick play becomes second nature. So on other words you need to practice.
More often than not a game pad controller (especially the Xbox 360 and PS3 game pads) is not equip for the precision that might be required for an arcade game like a fighter, beat-em-up, shmup or other arcade genre.
If taken properly care off, arcade parts (joysticks and arcade buttons) can last decades. Try to say that about fight pads that break in a few months.
Also the overwhelming consensus is that the Xbox 360 game pad is the worst d-pad design ever, and many people aren’t found of the Sony Dual Shock pad either.
Now Hitbox style controller is a different beast all together from game pads and is not fair to compare the two.
Hit box and other stick-less or all button controllers are still built on the same foundation as arcade sticks. Hit Boxes favor those who do ALOT of finger work like professional typist or musicians.
If I remember right the folks behind Hitbox are all either play an instrument or are professional musicians. The thing is you have to conceptualize what your finger work looks like with a hitbox and have some practice with it.
You are still using those larger muscles in your arms, even your shoulders compared to Game pad play.
Also finally there a nostalgia factor behind sticks and controllers like the hit box (as it still uses arcade parts) it creates this mental awareness, this comfort you aren’t always going to get with a crummy game pad.
There sorta is, there various grip styles you can you for the joystick, each with its only philosophy, Pros and Cons. The idea here is find a style that provides comfort while providing/keeping full control.
And there videos on this on you tube.
Often we tell you not to ride the gate and the reason is two fold.
- As you use the gate as a guide (and not a restrictor) to find your position faster. You want to glide to each directional.
- and more important, if you ride the gate and become too forceful you now risk wearing your joystick out faster. Now this piece of equipment that design to and could last decades only last years or even months.
You risk wearing out the Actuator, Pivot and Spring quicker, damaging or even cracking the gate and maybe even wearing out the switches as you the grind the actuator and pivot you can create plastic dust that could get into the switches and prevent electrical contact and keep the switch from working.
are the shiny MLG TE sides white underneath? anything good to remove the paint or whatever that’s on them completely?
I picked up a Madcatz TE for PS3 from a friend who gave me a good deal. I’m on PC and obviously, it doesn’t work. The only thing is I’ve read up on all the issues and none of them seem relevant to me, my mainboard is a Z87-G45 so its using an intel chipset. The stick connects fine and even shows up in SF’s controller options- but the buttons just don’t work, even if I try and rebind them. I’ve also made sure to try the USB3.0 ports and it still won’t work, I really have no idea what to do. I’m eager to start using it but I’m starting to get worried that dual modding it will the be the only solution, which raises two issues. Firstly I don’t know how to solder, and secondly, from what I’ve gathered I’m going to have to order a PCB from somewhere and I’m pretty sure I’m going to be unable to get it delivered where I live or the shipping will be ludicrous. I read somewhere about something to do with removing a xbox controllers PCB? If anyone knows something about that or just anything that could help me out at all I’d be really grateful.
I basically have the same problem as the above poster, i’m also on PC, W8, however i have an xbox360 HRAP VX-SA. The device is recognized by my laptop, it shows up as RAP.NX, i also went under propertiest and “TEST”, all buttons work fine, also the joystick. However in USFIVthe stick doesn’t show up nor do any buttons work. Even my Xbox360 controller for windows doesn’t work.
*Edit: It works in KOFXIII however, guess i need to reïnstall USFIV.
*It works now after revalidating the files.
The zero delay pc encoder is the easiest and cheapest solution for pc compatibility. $10 shipped on eBay (from China, so it usually takes 2 weeks to America) and solder free- basically plug and play. Your want the .110 connector version for Japanese parts (which is what the te and all hori sticks have).http://m.ebay.com/itm/171017609206?cmd=VIDESC
You may have to rotate the joystick pcb or rearrange the pins in the 5 pin harness (both simple tasks).
Thanks dude, this looks like a good option. I’m gonna try getting a USB VIA port locally just in case, if that doesn’t work I’ll order one of those since it’s free shipping.
Reinstall the drivers @LockM I had the same problem with my hori vlx
Iim looking for a smoke grey or a grey plastic battop or a clear. And clear buttons with black rim cant find these?
Thanks.
I’m not sure what all of the ways to hold the stick are, but I feel pretty comfortable holding it between my ring finger and middle finger. Wrist to move forward and thumb + wrist to move back. Seems pretty natural to me. I’ll look up videos on youtube to see what other ways there are. So far I don’t ride the gate for anything other than crouch blocking, but I’ll work to improve that.
Drivers were up to date, some (lack of)files from USFIV were fucking me over.