The PS4 Pro doesn’t supply enough power to the front USB ports for the Brook PCBs to work. SO you will either have A) Get a Powered USB hub or B) Plug the Brook USB to the back of the PS4 Pro’s USB port.
Sorry for the probable dumb question, but would anyone know or would anyone be able to point in the direction of where to find out what the tension of the spring is in a Qanba Dragon?
Interesting. I have sticks with the little square PS3/PS4 board that’s a generation older, sans audio… and sticks with UFB’s. Both types of sticks work on the Pro’s front ports with zero problems. Perhaps it’s something with those particular board models. I wonder if the USB breakout board with the audio port might be the source of the issue. Have you tested everything with sticks with other Brook boards?
Are there any recommended mods for my Hrap4? I’m planning on playing a lot of Dragon Ball FighterZ. So far it feels like some of my movements don’t register.
On Many Sony consoles, Some computer motherboards, and so on the USB host is a little stingy with their power requests. They only want to give so many amps to devices.
This is actually a safety feature to prevent the overloading of power delivery on the motherboard.
I seen it happen on the Original Launch PS4s, most models of the PS3, and the slim PS2s. I also see this happen on Some PC motherboards and some macs.
For a PC, if its compatible the easy solution is to use a USB 3.0 port instead of a 2.0 port. On consoles the work around is a powered Hub.
Many systems are just power stingy by default. There only so much power thats allowed to be given with standard USB 2.0 protocols.
And its up to the individual USB Controller on the motherboard of that system to decide how much of that protocol’s power rules actually apply.
USB 3.0 does not have this issue, as it’s built for taking request up to +15 volts on whats typically a +5 volt bus with the more than 3 times the current as well.
(but a device has to request the extra power).
Audio amp on the Audio boards require slightly more watts than a typical USB board, and many USB hosts are very power-stingy.
With the USB handshake between Host and device, the device request a certain amount of watts, and the Host can approve or disprove.
We actually see this issue all the time with Sticks with LEDs in them. It also might be (but highly unlikely) the USB encoder on the UFB Audio only requesting power for the UFB USB functions and not the Audio side.
Using arbitrary and probability wrong numbers here, but this is to illustrate whats going on.
Senario 1 (unlikely Senario)
Its like I am a USB Encoder on a UFB board, I need 400 milliamps to do my job and the USB host only gives enough with a max of 500 milliamps, and the Audio side wants 130 for it self.
The USB host sees my request for 400 and not give any more, but because of the Audio there isn’t enough power being delivered.
Scenario 2 (most likely scenario)
I am a USB encoder, I asked for 530 but the host only gives out a Max of 500 and told me I am Shit out of luck.
With a USB Powered Hub Senario
The USB Hub "It’s cool boss I got the power requests, you just handle the data that I am repeating to you"
USB Host “Copy that, you are cleared hot”
Alright PS3 Madcatz TE Fightstick item #8838, windows 10 machine with z170x ultra gaming motherboard i7 chipset, i want to play DBZ and i just can’t get it to work.
Shows up as PC USB wired stick 8838 but wont take any input commands, the way I understand it this stick is one of the original ones and jsut won’t work do i need to buy a new stick or change the joystick board or what ?
If your TE is one of the originals, the OG (Round 1) or Round 2 sticks, then there are incompatibility issues with many PC motherboards.
The issue was reported as mostly with non-Intel chip sets on mother boards, but later Intel boards has the issue anyways due to most boards abandoning the old USB 1.1 UHCI protocols
The Old TE is completely incompatible with USB 3.0/3.1
It could be also a unrelated problem that DBFZ could be Xinput only and Every Model Mad Catz PS3 stick supports only Dinput.
You are bets off changing out the board inside with something compatible
It depends on your Solderingskills and your budget. Cheapest option is brook ps3/ps4 fighting board witch can be found for 35€/40$. The you have the brook ps3/4 breakout, ps4+ audio and universal fight board, witch are all more expensive, but require less soldering. If you want your home button and turbo buttons to work, or if you want to use the existing usb cable, youre going to have to do some soldering though.
Hello people, now I have time again I’ve resurrected an old project again on a 2 player stick. However the consoles I now own have changed.
What multi console non solder PCB can I implement which will allow me to use my stick on a Dreamcast, OG Xbox, Snes mini classic aka Wii port connection, PC and PS3 please?