If you have little experience making custom sticks, you WILL goof during the process. It’s inevitable. If you want a project to pursue, and not just something universal to start digging into fighting games (and shooters) then a DIY stick is the way to go. Just remember to set your expectations accordingly.
Oh, and fucking memorize slagcoin. Seriously…browsing is a waste of time.
Thanks, will definitely keep this in mind when I decide to try my hand at it.
A starter soldering Iron isn’t too expensive, another tool I recommend is a multi meter
Yeah, also necessary purchases, but I’ve decided to put it off for a while and just purchase a stick to start with. I thank you for all your advice so far and will keep everything I’ve learned here in mind when I have enough free time and hobby money to think about building one again.
hey guys, I recently got an ls40 which I love but I noticed a ton of dust from grinding on the gate. it’s weird cause when I played on my hayabusa for years I saw so little if anything at all. is the ls40 made with softer plastic or something? anyone know?
LS-40s actuator is made from Nylon plastic.
It’s softer than the Hayabusa Actuator, but Nylon is usually have a very high resistance to wear and tear.
Nylon last long as its not hard, it has just enough give that it absorbs impact rather than grind or crack.
Maybe you got a older production run of the LS-40 and the plastic has aged.
Actuator dust is more common with ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)Actuators found with Sanwa and Hayabusa joysticks
The only hard plastic for Actuators that is resistance to wear and tear is Polyoxymethylene (often goes by the brand name of Derlin)
@Darksakul thanks for the info. it shouldn’t be old since it’s pretty new according to arcadeshock. this is the one I got https://arcadeshock.com/products/seimitsu-ls-40-01-jaepo-2017-special-edition-dark-blue-or-deep-pink
Only other thing I can think of is the plastic could be from a bad batch?
yeah, that’s what I’m thinking. thanks for the help.
Hi there. Kind of a noob question, but I recently started modifying the stock JLF in my MadCatz fightstick with an octagonal gate and a 0.5mm LT oversized Delrin actuator from Paradise Arcade Shop. I really love the modification, as I feel considerably more accurate than I did with the stock parts. However, I’m not sure if an issue I’m experiencing is in my head or not, but I feel like I have to put in more force to move my stick than I did before.
If I am interested in making the stick easier to move, would I be more interested in getting a custom spring from PAS, or installing a Cherry microswitch mod? Apparently, microswitch mods are meant for lessening the actuation force required to register a direction on the stick, if I did my research correctly? Just to clarify, what is the physical difference in getting a spring mod versus a microswitch mod versus getting both?
I recently purchased a PS360+ and it is on 1.2 firmware, how can I update the pcb if I do not have access/ can not find the Atmel FLIP software?
While changing the pivot point (fulcrum) of a lever can give a perceivable increase (or decrease) in actuation pressure, this is simply not the case with going with just a slightly wider actuator. So, sorry to say this—but yes—it’s just in your head. Perhaps one could argue the change in restrictor gate, but I’ll stick to my guns, stating that only a change in shaft mount height or spring tension will change that feeling you’ve described.
A spring mod is typically done to increase the pressure needed to pivot the joystick shaft towards an actuation point (be it either a microswitch or an optical sensor). Once you get to a microswitch tab, it also has its own measure of force to actuate—which, on a Cherry mod, is slightly less than the stock SW-68 Switch on a JLF.
Usually people complain that the movement and actuation is too loose on a JLF. I personally go with a PAS .5mm Delrin actuator (not LT), and a stiffer 1.5lb spring on all my JLF-equipped sticks. It’s got the right balance for me. The stock JLF spring is rated at .9lbs. See if PAS has a lighter tension version than that and go from there. I’m not sure they carry anything like that though, @WritersBlah
Ah. Well, knowledge is knowledge, I suppose. I could venture to guess that perhaps the reason I’m feeling more force is due to the actuation being shorter leading to put more up-front force to move the stick versus naturally moving the stick to the further actuation point already having force behind it due to acceleration and whatnot. It could just entirely be in my head though.
PAS does carry one lighter-tension custom spring, seen here: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/springs/638-paradise-jlf-spring.html . However, going back to my stick, I’m actually not sure how much the spring is going to solve. Thing is, once I’ve moved the stick past a microswitch and I hear the “click” registering a direction, wiggling the stick back and forth within that zone isn’t really a problem. I suppose the only way I’d really be able to test this out would be to order the light spring to test with the stick, and if the force to move still feels similar, then I could switch out the stick to the Cherry mod. It’s entirely possible once I do that though that I may start feeling the desire for a stronger spring. It’s really hard to tell, and wish I could test this out somehow without committing myself to purchasing a lot of “what-if” products. I’m not sure what PAS’s return policy is, but paying $7 for shipping every time I’m dissatisfied with my experience seems like it’d add up over time. Guess I was just trying to see if there was a way to save myself that many purchases.
Then get the lighter spring AND the Cherry mod. Mix and match and decide based on your experience. Chalk up the expense to finding your own inner Goldilocks. Most people just stick with the stock button and stick feel. If you want to fine tune things, ya gotta pay to play.
Can anyone tell me what I need from the Razer Panthera part below to wire to my brook UFB?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d0kfsHaSyRXmGh6oK-ZeLBEaWfJ3L5YN/view?usp=sharing
and
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1POYcOFutqPL7CENa88MIyhG41FG2laiY/view?usp=sharing
Did you buy the UFB yet? Because if not, then just buy the following:
Yes, I bought the non ezmod one because my cable broke and it reuses the cable. Everything but that one piece is wired up and ready to go.
Answering my own question for posterity.
https://i.imgur.com/9p2BPW8.jpg
This is exactly the effect I was hoping for. Seems like I’ll need to enclose the screw portion and the led itself to prevent too muck light from leaking out, but other than it’s perfect. Hopefully someone somewhere in the internet-future will benefit from this information.
The link in the PS360+ firmware manual redirects to http://www.microchip.com/
In the search box, you can type Flip and it should be one of the first links you can click on. The newest versions of the program are located there.
Do Brook PCBs (PS3/PS4 board and UFB) not work on PS4 pro? I’ve tried both on different PS4 pros on multiple occasions and the console doesn’t detect it at all, but the exact same boards work fine on regular PS4s (and computers). Do I have to do anything special?