Wiring shorts to ground?/Cold solder joints?
Have you tested with a multimeter to make sure any signals including activation of turbo (or anything else) is not grounded?
Pics of wiring will help
Shit, my phone is dead. Iāll post photos tomorrow of my wiring. Thank you for your help in this matter.
As of right now, I reattached the wire cables to the atrox PCBs and somehow managed to get the turbo buttons working to turn them off. For some reason the buttons donāt correspond to their actual button placement. Iām not too bothered by this at the moment.
Biggest (non-issue) issue is S+S=G for MCC. Disable home wasnāt bridged, guide + ground wasnāt bridged anywhere else. Iāve tested with a multimeter. Additionally, Iām not sure if this is a feature of the Impv2 board but when I boot into the atrox PCB S+S=G works until I hit the actual guide button. After hitting the guide button, S+S=G does not work. Iād rather S+S=G not work at all, but Iām glad it exists for the problem Iām having with the MCC board.
Hi guys, does anyone have a good idea what kind of quick disconnects the GGXrd TE2 uses? Accidently pulled one off the wire with pliers and it got ruined and needs replacing. Just read on SRKās recent review that they have release tabs to prevent the need for pliers. Wish I knew sooner. Also, how does one replace the wires attached to the connector/harness (donāt know if this is the right terminology)? The TE2 uses a 16pc wire connector/harness for the buttons. Was interested in changing the colors and possibly sleeving them in the near future. Thanks in advance!
Recently my ps360+ has been acting up, with button/directional presses failing to register. While unplugging/replugging the usb (into the pcb, not the system) does fix it for a little while, does anyone have a better solution?
I did replace the usb cable with another (and theyāre both 6ā I believe), but the problem has persisted. And it continues on different consoles too.
When did you buy yours? I bought mine when the re-release with the lag fixes came out this year, and I have similar issues. Sometimes it wonāt even register on PC. Iāve checked the wiring a few times so unless something on the board is shorting, I have no clue why it does that.
Only thing I can think of is a potential short between one of the data lines on the USB and ground depending on how clean your wiring is unless the PCB is going bad (not likely).
Any pics?
Hmm. Iāll have to check it again when I get home from work. Iāll post the images when I do though.
- Does PS360+ have the same pinout of RJ-45 as MC Cthulhu?
- Any chances that Per release VMU support on PS360+ anytime soon or this project is closed?
- Is it possible to perfom dualmod with PS360+ and stock Dreamcast Agetec PCB to retain orgignal VMU Support? Any diagrams or advices?
Thanks!
I saw original Saturn pad -> X360 adapters on ebay. Also there are Saturn pad -> PS2 adapters. If they are lagless this is much better than throwing $200-250 for original Saturn pad for PS2
- Yes, otherwise you would need different system cables.
- He showed a prototype add on, but right now theyāre working on something to fix ps4 and xbone support, so donāt hold your breath.
- Yes, assuming the agetech is common ground,I donāt see why you couldnāt. You may need a separate output for it since Iām assuming you would be switching more than d+ and d- if you intend on using the rj45 output on the ps360.
Iāve got a PS360+ dual modded to a PS4 GG pad which is all connected to an IMPv2 (inside an official Hitbox case). Output is via the IMPv2 USB jack.
I know the mod is good because everything works as it should but only when using a 15cm (6 inch) USB cable. If I use the stock Hitbox cable (3 meters) then the PS4 side works absolutely fine, but as soon as I try switching to PS360+ it detects it but freaks out & disconnects whenever a button or direction is pressed. Bootloader mode is working.
The PS360+ works fine on its own when using the stock 3 meter USB cable.
Soā¦ the PS360+ is either experiencing a power problem when travelling through the IMPv2 or massive data signal corruption. Is there a way I can fix this without having to use a tiny 15cm USB cable? Halp!
Iāve noticed that in the Check Out my New Arcade Stick Thread, among other places, that while Sanwa buttons and Seimitsu buttons are both very common in sticks, when it comes to clear buttons, especially those with art, the Seimitsu buttons are used almost exclusively. Is there a reason behind this?
Could be something to do with the impedance of the stock cable. Did you try a different (maybe a better made) 3 meter long cable?
Two reasons.
1 - Sanwa clears are relatively new. Sanwa started pumping them out a few years back whereas Seimitsu has had clears around for 10+ years? (Time periods might be a bit off, but rough estimates offhand)
2 - Clear Sanwas are garbage (purely my opinion, but Iāve spoken with a lot of people that agree with me). They just donāt feel right with the activation of the microswitch in comparison to a standard OBSF.
Probably also the fact that clear snap-in buttons (the only kind that Sanwa offers) are brittle and the tabs break easily. Same goes for GamerFinger buttons except they are worse since thereās very little give to the tabs. I guess they only break if you swap them out frequently like I do since I change the art on my stick every now and then. I imagine Sanwa clears would be popular if they had a good screw-in variant. Iām okay with how they feel, but Iām not too picky about buttons in the first place. xP
Clear plastic is more brittle than non-clear. Also screw in buttons are easier to install.
I bought a used T6 stick and its really nasty especially the guide button, what would be a good replacement for it button wise?
I really donāt want to resort to using paint.
As a follow up question then: would trading the rims of the buttons to solid plastic rims fix this? Also can you switch out the rims of a snap-in and a screw-in, for that matter?
You can buy buttons with a clear center and solid outside but if the only reason youāre doing that is fear of breaking a $3 button, Iāve had brand new Sanwa solid snap-in buttons break before and none of my clear ones ever broke from removing and changing them in different sticks,
but if you want to get clear and screw-ins work for whatever youāre putting it in then I would get screw-in over snap-in.
I want to do solid rims with art inserts, but would prefer Sanwa buttons over Seimitsu. If the OBSC plungers are compatible with the OBSN and OBSF rims, I would be able to do this, and also solve the snap-in issue. Unfortunately the only sanwa button combinations Iām able to find are clear rims and solid plungers.
I think they fit seeing how they sell just the clear plunger just for that purpose