Wood panel? Shaft too short? Route more wood. Shaft too long? Washers.
I donāt know 100% if this is the right thread (but I think this should be okay), so hopefully I donāt get in shit for this or something, but kinda have an issue. I just got a brand new āBenQ RL2460HT 24-inch 1ms GTG ZeroFlicker Gaming Monitorā (you know, the one co-developed by Justin Wong), but I canāt seem to get it working with my 80 gig fat PS3. I have 2 different HDMI cables, both of which work perfectly fine with my brotherās 36 or 40 inch (I canāt remember which, LG monitor when hooked up to the PS3.
When I turn the monitor on, it says āno cable connectedā seemingly regardless of whether I put the HDMI in HDMI Out, HDMI1, or HDMI2, and when I click the button on the side that brings up the inputs, which I think (not sure on the first one) are like USB, DVI, HDMI1, HDMI2, and click to move it down to one of the HDMI ones, it wonāt move at all to let me select them. If I click the button that brought up the menu again, then the DVI selection will just flash and go back to where it was before. I havenāt really been able to find a solution to this online, and nobody I know that has a BenQ that Iāve asked has given an answer so uhā¦Iād kind of hope somebody here could help out so I wouldnāt be having what Iāve heard is like the ideal Fighting Game monitor justā¦sitting around without me being able to use it.
This isnāt really a stick question but the B button on my XB1 controller has started to stick really badly and I was wondering if there was any quick fix to get it back to normal? I donāt think itāll be as easy as rubbing a little WD-40 on it or something but any ideas will help.
Take it apart and clean that button with rubbing alcohol.
does anyone know what type of screws go in the top and bottom plates of the Qanba Q4? My bottom plate is missing a foot, and id like to have colored screws in the top.
Thanks.
Cool. But how do you take this thing apart? I donāt see any screws like the 360 controller had.
*Nvm
I donāt have one, couldnāt tell you firsthand. Look up the xbone pad hacking thread and youāll probably find directions.
ifix it also have tear down tutorials.
I got the small SF4 MC SE stick for free from my dads work. The stickās sensors died out on it, but all the buttons work. I tried connecting another stick of mine into it with my XTekken sticks cables into the pcb, but only Up works on it when I did that.
When I put in the original really long cable only right and left worked and itd slip off since my other sticks pins are shorter.
What should I do? Should I just use electrical tape and tape them together or will that not work?
First, put a good lever in it. Easier to troubleshoot after that.
Does anyone know if a JLF Link will install in a Hori Hayabusa? Specifically the silenced version, using the original actuator and spring. Iāve seen things saying that it should but Iād like some confirmation before buying.
YES.
The Hayabusa is compatible with all JLF shafts including the link.
The silent versionās differences are with the switches not the shaft.
Thanks!
Well I have a JLF, the Qanba stick with different shaft parts in it, and receiving a Seimitsu stick soon. The big problem is getting the cable to work with another stick or the right replacement 5 pin wiring to hook up to the pcb. I thought the Xtekken stick wiring would work since its 5 wires too but it doesnt.
The 5 pin cable should be fine. You mentioned using a different cable and only having up work, did you try flipping it over? Normally, only one direction will work if itās upside down.
IIRC, godlikecontrols.com (which is currently down for the holidays) has 5 pin cables with the correct harness for mad catz pcbs. You could also just get a plain old 5 pin cable without a harness on the pcb side and solder it to the board.
I had it on the right way, and yes I flipped it over and it still didnt work. I actually just now tried out the cable from my Qanba 1 stick and it works with the JLF.
Planning to make a cheap silent JLF for a friend and silent Hayabusa for myself but donāt want to go optical, I know it wonāt feel the same as a stock JLF but what would get me as close as possible to the feel of one? Doesnāt have to be dead silent but quiet enough.
I was thinking .5mm larger actuator but not sure what microswitches, 75g Cherry? Omrons? 50g or 20g Zippys?
Ok, Um it started registering the JLF and Qanba sticks with the stock wiresā¦Weird. I got this for free from my dads work. Who ever donated it must have hated how the stickās pcb was acting up. When I first plugged it into my computer the diagonals didnt register and then last night they did with the stock stick all of a sudden. So at least now I know I can put in a better stick into it.
This is why I dont like Mad Catz sticks, they put me through so much frustration. I hate the inside of the XTekken stick because it should have SO MUCH ROOM but its cramped as hell and my fingers always get pinched and they went over board on screws and what to screw in along the inside of the body! /rant.
Any new on a converter for sticks ? besides cronus ?