you mean solder the wipers to their respective positions on the chimp, right?
RT wiper to 4K_INVERT
LT wiper to 3K_INVERT
will I have to change LB to 4P_INVERT? or RB to 3P_INVERT?
nevermind aha im going to try what i think might be the case
so i soldered RT wiper to3K_INVERT , LT wiper to 4K_INVERT
now when i plug it in the 360 ring stays steady on
pc doesn’t recognize it : (
i’ve checked all my solder points and everything looks fine
is there smething i could check for without using a voltometer?
coloring TE Stick case
hey there i wanted to ask what kind of color i need to color my TE stick from black (round 2)
to white.
i dont want it to look good,i want it to look pro since i dont have the money for another in case i screw things up ^^
also i want to color the shaft cover white,too…
any suggestions or links to threads where these wuestions are answered?
thanks in advance.
-mofo
For the shaft you can buy new ones from lizardlick and Akihabara I think.
As for colouring the plastic, I only know of using sprays for a job like that, though it would be susceptible to chipping if not done right.
coloring TE Stick case
hmm i cant buy them cause im from germany and shipping costs too much for just one shaft cover
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I am having real trouble removing the buttons from my HRAP V3 SA. I understand that they have “quick release” connectors, but for some reason one connector is easily removed while the other refuses to budge when I tug on it. I don’t really want to put some serious force in my tugs because I am afraid of breaking my stick. Is there a special technique to this that I am missing? Should I just pull harder? Currently I am trying to pull out the wires by holding onto the plastic “connector” part. Is that technique correct?
I have a quick question about the sales on MadCatz sticks this weekend. I’m still a bit of a Street Fighter noob, but I know that I want to get a stick. Would it be cheaper to get the SE stick for $50 and eventually mod it with better parts than to get the TE stick right away? From all the reviews I’ve read, it sounds like the SE’s parts will need to be replaced eventually, but if the cost of the parts adds up to $50 I figure I might as well go ahead and get the TE Round 2.
@ukyo_rulz:
dont tug on the wire itself… u may tear it out of the quick disconnect… best thing to do is grab some pliers and grab the long neck of the quick disconnect and “gently” rock it back and forth until it eventually comes off…
@beggar89:
It may be a choice of preference or even budget but i’ll break it down for yeah… if you’re buying a $50 SE and “you know” u are going to change the parts out for arcade quality stuff (now or later) then yes, u are looking at adding about another $50 just for basic components (buttons and joystick). If u are more of a casual gamer and couldn’t care less since u may or may not play as intensely then by all means the SE is for you lol… Now with that said though, i think the TE is the better choice… Overall it has everything u need right outta da box… no mods necessary and it feels wonderful to play on to boot (its got some good weight to it and has a wider body vs the SE)… This may be a bias opinion from me but since i owned both, the comparisons where like a VW Beetle to a sports car lol… ionno just my 2 cents really…
*hope that helped out both of ya… enjoy.
@toshinu:
Thanks for the advice, but unfortunately I did not have any pliers with me (currently living in Japan, toolbox is 3000km away). I wound up slipping a flat head screwdriver underneath the metal connector and gently twisting it in a circular motion to get the connector off.
Hey guys, I finally got a kit to start creating and modding my own arcade stick out of tupperware, and I have a few questions. Sorry if this has been asked a billion times before, but :
1 - I know the Sanwa that I’m using are 30mm, but what’s the best way to drill the 30mm holes? I also want it to be in a 6 Button Vewlix-style layout, what’s the best way to go about drilling the holes exactly like the Vewlix layout? Also, what size do I drill in for the stick?
2 - Right now I have an LS-32 and I was wondering what’s the best way to drill in the holes to bottom-mount my LS-32? I can see that there are 4 slots to put in screws, but I’m iffy about drilling the holes wrong and destroying a good and hard to find piece of tupperware.
3 - Wire mapping for the PS1 Pad PCB? I’m also new to soldering, so any good tips would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Somebody mind telling me how realistic this is? I want to make a custom arcade stick and preferably buy a bag to go with it. Push come to shove, I’ll pass on the bag. I have a preferred budget of 150 to 180 and a max budget of 200.
I want Sanwa parts; nothing fancy, just 11 see-through buttons and a stick. I want the stick to be multi-console with a USB and a second plug, but I’ll settle for PS/xbox360/PC if the budget won’t allow it. I want the bottom to be a window, so the wiring has to look presentable. Nothing fancy on the glass, just something that won’t break when I drop it.
I also want a wood case. It’s going to be painted so I don’t care about the type of wood as long it doesn’t break when I sneeze on it. I want the glass on the top of the stick to be screwless, but I’ll settle for the screws if it’s too expensive. Finally I want original art. Nothing too detailed, but it has to look good.
I don’t know if this is the right area to post but i was wondering on my SE stick should I put the Joystick on the d-pad switch or the left-analog switch.
DP, never LS or RS.
Templates/Skins???
I have noticed many cool skins/templates on arcade sticks and have become interested in either buying or somehow creating my own. I have the TE arcade stick for 360 and was wondering if there is a tutorial for creating a template or somewhere I could buy one for it, if it even can be modded in this way.
Thank you.
-
for tupperware 30mm or 1 3/16 holesaw seems safest. Drill pilot holes and clamp that shit down for safety.
Slagcoin.com for layouts. Poke hules through button center and mark with a sharpie. -
LS-32 or 32-01? Remove mounting plate. Get a sharpie and mark the 4 corner holes with the mounting plate. Drill.
3)slagcoin.com pcb and wiring section.
$200 is possible if you pass on the bag. There are no see through center Sanwa buttons you can buy (out of production. you can have 6 of my highly used red ones for $100 dollars) only Seimitsu. For a case you should get from qcfgaming.com before they close up this summer for good. You need a MC Cthulhu dual mod which is not something a beginner should try and usually cost like $150 for someone like gummowned to do that on the trading forum.
Try to buy a stick off the trading forum I say.
I’m seemingly struggling to find wiring for buttons if I were to make a custom stick. Closest I could find to my needs were these:
But the connectors on them are the wrong ones x_x Anyone know what I can do about this? Or if it’s worth buying them and replacing the connectors if that’s possible?
I’m willing to pay for uniqueness, otherwise I’d just get a TE and have that modded. 
Anyway, if that’s the case, then I definitely will be passing on Sanwa buttons, or at least the see-through ones. Depends on how I like the feel of seimitsu buttons. I will consider Qcfgaming’s cases. Also, is the $150 just labor?
Thanks for the reply, man.
Super Newb
Hello Everyone I really want to learn how to dual mod an arcade stick can anyone help me out with a tutorial that I would be able to understand? Video or Thread Doesn’t matter. I would Highly Appreciate it. Thanks. SRK RULES!!!
How do I add a ls-56 spring to a jlf? =o