Laugh.
I’m with scabby796.
The Microswitch in PS-14-KN is same as in PS-14-G.
http://www.tokaicom.jp/product30/page10/detail.htm
It is the TKC MM9-4.
Well even the TKC MM9-3 same rating.
And those are in the 24mm Seimitsu Buttons, and PS-14-K and PS-15 and PS-14-P.
And even the TKC MM9-2 is same.
And those are in the the Namco Buttons.
Hell-0 yall,
[warning: brain melt-down]
I have a HRAP3. I’d like to change my hori buttons with sanwa buttons. I want to change the regular 8 buttons & the start and select buttons. I want to change the joystick as well.
questions :
1] what are the sizes i should order? regular and the smaller ones for the start and select.
2] what model of sanwa joystick is a square gate? (I’ve adjusted my gameplay to a square-gate)
also I’d like to know the size of the balltop(same as hrap3), since i want to change the color of that.
bonus question] what’s a restrictor for? how does it affect inputs?hears someone screaming far away…maybe jdm doing Seppuku
i’m gonna order my stuff from this site – www.arcadeshop.de
p.s. i’m sorry if i’m the #12423523452345 guy asking the same thing. thanks for your patience.
Got a question about push button clips. My stock SE stick buttons did not like being popped out and eventually most of their clips lost their resistance and are loose. Should I try not taking out Sanwa buttons outta my sticks as often? Good thing about the madcatz buttons, they were already busted before the clips “broke”.
@syn13:
yeah, continually taking your buttons out will eventually mess with the clip’s resistance… so i say get some screw-in buttons and you should be fine…
so yeah, hope that helps both of you… enjoy
That was really helpfull, thank you.
Yes, thank you very much.
EDIT: can you also link me a guide on how to swap the buttons without damaging anything, please?
Quick question: On the Happ horizontal microswitches, does that L-shaped prong serve any purpose? Right now I’m wiring only the 2 parallel prongs and completly ignoring the 3rd one on the side.
I’ve just built a joystick for PS2… Using a third party PS1 PCB.
It was alright on my fat PS2(5000X series), and on another fat PS2(probably a refurbished 3000X one).
BUT, when I used it on a PS2 that has a HDD installed…the stick went ntus…
Sometimes random inputs came out, and the most annoying part was when the start button went crazy… :looney:
So, the quesion is…
do some PCBs have problems when they are used on a PS2 with a HDD installed??
Is it actually an issue with the PS2 custom firmware?
Has anyone with a MC-Cthulhu had a similiar problem? coz that’d suck… 
So question about installing my Sanwa JLF. The stick came shipped from Lizard lick with 2 dust covers. Was this an error or am I supposed to do something with the second one?
i got 2 as well, probably a backup one.
Ok I thought what I had in mind was correct but these happ buttons arent working… There’s 3 prongs, i’ve ignored that l-shaped one and when i went to test my wiring no buttons were responding, when i touched the lshaped wire there was a connection and some thing was responding, but it was hella laggy. What is happening?
I did not kill myself yet.
Laugh.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132472
You are supposed to use one of the straight ones, and use the bent one.
The three Terminals are: Normally Closed (NC), Normally Open (NO), COM (Ground).
You use the NO and COM for doing this type of stuff.
So don’t do what you did, or think of doing.
Not an error.
All JLF come with two Dust Disc.
You can use one if you want.
The second one is used for under the Control Panel.
So it goes like this:
JLF > Dust Disc > Control Panel > Dust Disc > Ball Top.
But only do that if your Arcade Stick lets you do that.
If your Arcade Stick has a Mounting Bracket, then you can do.
But if your Arcade Stick is a Custom, then using the second Dust Disc will not work.
which normal do i use? the one farthest from the com or the closer one to it?
I already got the buttons wired up the way you just said not to. Right now the ground in all daisy chained up on the COM. the start button works… but for some reason, I cannot throw any punches unless PPP is held down, or kick unless i hold KKK down. I should take a pic and post, gimme a min.
Oh man, I typed wrong.
Supposed to be Normally Closed (NC), Normally Open (NO), COM (Ground).
Now you know which two Terminals to use.
so the on that’s closest to the ground? Also, why are the buttons so weird, they work fine in the menu they weren’t working when i was playing… also there is a distinct lag between clicking the button and the action coming out. I know it’s not the controller i ripped off because the jlf is fully responsive with barely noticeable lag.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/1148/dsc08743j.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9815/dsc08744d.jpg
funny the start button is hella quick on response with little lag.
please refer to previous post for more info.
The Terminals are labeled.
But yes, NO is the one closest to COM.
About the needing to hold a Button to have other Buttons work.
That means usually switched Ground and Signal somewhere.
But I can’t find that fault in the pictures.
The Terminals are labeled.
But yes, NO is the one closest to COM.
About the needing to hold a Button to have other Buttons work.
That means usually switched Ground and Signal somewhere.
But I can’t find that fault in the pictures.
Is every Button NO and COM?
umm no. right now all the COMs are daisy chained (black wire), and aal the buttons are on the NC, the farthest prong from the ground. I’ll go get that fixed first, but that still confuses me as to why I have to hold 3K or 3P to do any actions.
Oh, I thought those pictures are of when you fixed everything.
I thought I was crazy seeing wires going to NC.
Then I doubted that because I see solder on NO.
That tricked me.
Laugh.
I have idea of why you need to hold 3K or 3P.
i’ll redraw a diagram soon, but after i tried soldering one button to the NO instead of NC, the response was quicker, but still not as quick as most buttons should be. Could I possibly have fucked up the prongs or something?
well, if you are still replying, i guess so OYAJIIIII
btw, thanks a lot for the link. that’s exactly what i needed. cheers.
nevermind my sis got it working somehow… apparently the ground on the 3k and 3p can’t be combined. She was doing the soldering with me since she loves soldering for some unknown reason.