Looking for a resource about changing the system settings and maintaining an American Third Strike arcade cabinet, a buddy and I just picked one up for relatively cheap and the default volume is incredibly loud.
I have a keyring with allen wrenches of various size and none of them fit the bolts on my TE-S. Where do you get electronics tools cheap?
just a quick follow up. successfully switched out the ls-32 for the ls-58 in my 360 hori ex-se. absolutely lovin it, and much prefer the octagonal restrictor as well. thanks again for the help guys.
Make sure you are using a metric allen wench set…te bolts are #3 metric
This is random, but has anoyne seen the spartan halo costumes made of cardstock and fiberglass patches/resin ? I’m going to play around with thistechnique to make a case that’s car body like. Has anyone tried this ?
You can find them cheap online on eBay and Amazon.
Most hardware stores should also carry them.
Reason your Allen key set did not work because it was SAE (Standard American English) or Imperial English (British) sized Allen Keys.
You want a #3 Allen key which is Metric sized. Although if you ever used the replacement TE bolts that Toodles or myself sells, you want to get a #2.5 sized allen key as well.
Hey guys, I recently got my stick from B15 (it’s awesome BTW), but I have one problem. The back/select button is also the Turbo button, which is also used to switch between consoles (PS3/360). Now the issue I have is that, let’s say I’m playing UMvC3, in training mode, and I press Select+Start to reset the stage, the NEXT button I press (Cross, Triangle, etc) goes into Turbo mode. Is there a way to completely stop this? Or heck, remove the Turbo function completely? Or is it part of the design of the PCB? I emailed B15 about this, but thought I could see what the people say here. Thanks guys!
Nope that’s sadly how the paewang works. The Turbo function is the same as the console select
I thought you have to hold Turbo and press a button to have Turbo Input.
But you are saying that you only need to press Turbo, then press a button?
Ah, that’s why. My Allen Wrench key ring is for bicycles. 'MURICAN bicycles.
What’s the distance between the stick and buttons on a Namco Noir panel?
I opened up my TE-S today. While I have this thing opened, I might as well ask: how do people get artwork printed? Do they just go to kinkos? I was thinking of removing the SFIV art and making it all black for now. I’m not ready to order some fancy plexi art just yet.
d3v’s art thread has all you need to know about creating custom stick art. Have fun! 
Edit: But yes, printing at Kinko’s is an option.
Is there a way to stop the quick disconnect(circle button) inside a TE from coming loose in the middle of an intense match? Frankly I don’t handle my sticks with kid gloves and I mash really hard. I can get it to work again by taking it loose and putting it back on but needless to say that’s REALLY annoying.
Make sure when you do put back the QD on the button make sure you hear and/or feel a click, that’s when you know it’s fully secure.
Does anyone happen to know what size the start/select buttons are on a Mad Catz TE 2?
24mm
I hear a click everytime but I think it may be loose because one of the vertical connections have way too much play in it. I’m guessing there is a way to tighten this up?
Use a pair of crimping pliers or similar to tighten the QD up. Do this very carefully or you will squeeze it too hard, squashing the metal flat.
have a modded madcatz SE, first run of them, with sanwa buttons and stick. Was working fine until a couple of days ago when it would stop registering inputs. I would plug and unplug the stick, and it would go back to work. Afterwards about 7 minutes in it would revert to not functioning. Whenever I press the buttons they dont’ register on the screen although I can set some of the buttons to turbo. Where do I start searching for a problem?
This is a PS3 stick.
Common problem is the usb cord…over time the constant wrapping will damage the line and you get connection issues… I would start there before going further… Replacing the usb line requires soldering of four points so it’s a quick easy replacement… I don’t suggest using the solder less techniques… It’s sloppy and tend to be unreliable…do it right the first time…