So you have this?
http://www.focusattack.com/product_images/m/654/sanwa5pin__68183_zoom.jpg
If so you’ll have to solder it back to the board. I’m not sure of where you could get the exact cable that came in the stick, I’m sure people that mod have an extra one somewhere.
Yeah pretty sure thats it
Do you know how to solder and have an iron?
If you do know how then the board should be labeled up, down, left, right, ground, right where the box from the stick use to connect to it. The following diagram shows you which wires correspond…
yeah have done some solder in the past
is there some kind of tutorial on how to connect it to the pcb
There might be, I edited the previous post to explain where the wires would go.
I tried to replace the drive on my PS3, but stripped the screws on the HDD “basket” that keep the HDD in place. How can I get them off?
Got a couple questions, hoping there are some simple answers…
First, what does everyone do about ESD (electro-static discharge) when working with pcb’s? I’ve been working with chtulhu’s and pad hacks for a while now and have never had a problem with this, or i think i never did, until i recently shorted a board from a static shock from my body from working on carpet. I did a little research on this and it says to ground myself but im not entirely sure what that means exactly. Also, the only area i can work is carpeted and on a plastic table… i know these are main factors of ESD.
Second, what is the best way to get rid of rust from the bottom plate of a stick? What is a good product to use. Thanks in advance.
If you want to use a 6 button configuration, do all arcade games work fine, if you just combine L1 and L2 (or R1 and R2) or the equivalent Xbox shoulder button or trigger into one arcade button? Or are there some arcade games where they do serve a distcint function?
Hi guys. I just switched out the Sanwa stick in my stock Qanba Q4 for a Seimitsu LS-58. The install went well I thought. I pulled out the wire disconnect from the side, unscrewed it, then put everything back in with the new stick. However, now the directions aren’t being recognized correctly. The only direction that gets a response at all is upper right and upper left. Any idea what causes this? Could I have put the wires back in upside down or something? Thank you.
Edit: Looking at the posts above, The Seimitsu stick did come with it’s own set of wires. Can I not use the same wires that were already in the stick?
Check out this link, the image there explains it all.
Odds are you need to rotate the microswitch assembly 90 degrees
The plug that goes into the joystick - turn it upside down.
That was it, thank you! Thanks also to Darksakul. I’m learning a lot from this site and haven’t broken anything yet.
Why I did not think of that. Wait, Qanba uses the same stupid connector Mad Catz does for there Joystick Wiring Harness?
The connector is irrelevant as it could be anything. What is important is that Q4 sticks use JLF’s, the same as TE’s and a few others. Any motherboard which is used to accepting JLF pcb signals has to have the joystick plug turned upside down because Seimitsu pcb’s are wired in reverse.
depends on the game. My SSF4 is Lp, mp, hp top row lk, mk, hk for bottom.
For umvc I have l, m, h, assist 2 for top
S, assist 1, none, assist 1 + 2 bottom.
How was the modification for the Customer who drove 200 miles to you?
It is still funny to me that he contacted me.
Laugh.
That guy went through a travelling nightmare. Untold amount of vehicle problems!
There were a few minor issues caused by my unfamiliarity with the Nubytech, SIXAXIS, and AXISdapter boards. The ShinJn board was fine to work with, but there seems to be a design flaw with the Toodles pcb where you can’t plug in the USB cable without elevating either the AXISdapter pcb or the SIXAXIS. If the 20pin cable supplied were just a little bit longer it would have been fine, but regardless I was not expecting that and caused a headache with mounting. Bearing in mind I was not at my default workshop (which is another 200 miles away in the opposite direction) so I did not have all the equipment with me which I would have liked.
The LED diagram you provided was spot on, and is quite a nice touch to add to a converted TE stick. Also found a SIXAXIS driver for my laptop which meant I could test them out in my GameController applet.
But yeah… that’s the last time I do 4 unfamiliar mods in one day.
so i just got a ls-58 for replacement on my hori ex-se and realized i got the -01 version with the pcb (didn’t see any other option). am i screwed here or is there a way to get it to work in the ex-se? i can’t even find a place to order seimitsu sticks without the -01 at the end.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m197/b16sdm/seimitsu%20ls-58-01/5.jpg
Can’t you just wire the right-most pin/wire to ground and the rest to the u/d/l/r?
From what I have seen of that joystick there is only a PCB option. You can get non-pcb versions of the other joysticks from places like AkihabaraShop and Gremlins.
This is a complete guess, but can’t you just take the microswitches out of your old LS-32 and put them in your LS-58-01? So remove the pcb and put on the plastic gate to hold it all together. You could sell the pcb on SRK.
Alternatively do it the wretched way and cut the traces on your pcb and solder to the motherboard. Such a waste though…