If you want to.
You’ll still be solder wires back to the USB points.
Question about old HORI sticks… like the HRAP 1…
I’m looking for a way to NOT have to go through taking the bottom off. Perhaps gluing the nuts on the inside and replacing the top screws with ones like the TE sticks. I just don’t want them to fall off to cause me more headaches. That’s all. Any ideas?
Is there a decent 360 DDR pad I can hack with common ground for a 6 button arcade control pannel? I’d settle for 4 buttons on my tate cabinet if needed.
I took apart a dead one a friend gave me and was able to get nice fat solder points:
This seems expensive compared to the old xBox 1 hacks I have done: http://etokki.com/Xbox360/Joytron-Paewang-Revolution-PCB-Only
Thanks!
Godlike, thank you!
How is the panel going to be used? That pcb is expensive, but it might not be what you need depending on how you’re using the panel and your level of skill.
Thanks for the reply.
On my tate cab, I’ll likely have 4 buttons each player for shmupps. On my horizontal cab I’ll have 6 buttons mostly for death smiles but also for some fighters. I think I’ll get Streetfighter or WWE fight pads for the six buttons horizontal but want to save a couple of bucks for the 4 button CP.
Not sure that it matters but I’m going to move the RGH xbox between the cabs for my own use and use two old xBox1s for a majority of my family’s gameplay.
Yea, mainly what consoles it will be used on. If it’s xbox1, you can use a MC Cthulhu. It’s a custom pcb that supports PS3/PC and the old consoles. It has all the buttons. You’ll only need to work with fightpads if you need it to work with xbox360.
I’m basically looking for the least expensive pad hack for the 360 with a common ground. I can get a DDR pad for around $15. Gamestop pads are about $20 used. I have found the street fighter and wwe fight pads for like $30. All are wired.
I asked about DDR because they have big fat solder points.
Thank you.
Check out the gamestops around you. Can’t get them online, but if they have Brawlpads in stock, they’ll be 19.99. The solder points aren’t huge, but it’s not that difficult of a padhack.
EDIT:
I found two for $19.99.
Dannkk -> THANK YOU!
Odd aside:
The manager was cool so when a kid walked up to sell a wireless MS controller which I happened to be looking for, I asked how much he would get.
"$12 in trade"
I asked if I could give him $12 cash and the manager was cool with it.
About two years ago my stock 360 controller’s left analog stick started acting weird. Assuming the stick is like a clock, 10 o’clock to noon wouldn’t work all the way. I’d push the stick to the gate but the game would register it as being pushed partway. Windows’ configuration thing confirmed it. Obviously this made the majority of games unplayable.
I bought a Hori EX 2 pad to replace it. A few months later, EXACT same problem. Now, I know that suggests user error, but then guess what: same exact thing happened to my friend’s stock controller last month. He’s 3000 miles away and I have not once touched his controller. This is, without a doubt, some sort of manufacturing error. The problem is, I opened my hori up and didn’t see anything out of the ordinary, so I guess my question is this:
Why does this keep happening and is there any way to fix it?
My friend got a Qanba Q4RAF (really great stick), and just today we tried using it with my Xbox, and it wasn’t getting detected. The Xbox/Ps3 switch was certainly in the right position (though we tried both). The USB port was fine, as other wired controllers worked in both USB ports while the Qanba worked in neither. The Qanba was also receiving power from the Xbox (the LEDs for turbo lit up), and the Xbox was receiving data from the stick, as it was possible to turn the Xbox on with it; however, it just absolutely refused to recognize that the Qanba existed once the console was on (it would only register there being one controller when two sticks were plugged in). Any thoughts?
A couple of quick questions. I recently ordered WWE All Stars BrawlStick and when it arrives, I would like to mod it with Sanwa JLF stick and OBSF-30 buttons. Judging by the tutorials I’ve seen, there is no need for soldering and all parts should fit in perfectly right? Also I’m probably ordering from Etokki and the stick doesn’t come with mounting plate. Can I use the one that comes with BrawlStick? Help would be much appreciated!
Yep.
Yep.
Hello could somebody point the buttons that I can solder of this controller without failing cause I don’t wanna mess it up also I can’t afford to get a another controller this is the controller that I dissembled and wanted to make as a stick
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/2895/dsc01761g.jpg
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/6954/dsc01764w.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7837/mandodeps3compatiblesco.jpg
doesn’t look like its a common ground controller at all
if you have a multimeter, then you can check which grounds are common line with each other but looks like you’re going to have to do all of them individually
thankfully for you it looks like your directions use the same line for gnd so you’d only need to solder the gnd portion of your JLF cable to one instead of hassling around and cutting the TP-MA pcb.
I don’t know anyone who has worked with that controller or maybe even seen it for use so i’m pretty sure a padhack guide for this one doesn’t exist.
So what you’re going to have to do is touch each and every one of the side S-shaped pads where buttons exist on the pcb with one side of the S having a wire for gnd and the other S for a wire for input. As for directions, Solder only the points where it leads to smaller lines for signal and have one for GND where they meet up with the large amount of green.
I’m having trouble understanding of your reply ( lol thats how you can tell that I’m just a beginner) but it would be appreciated
if some had a diagram picture that shows every point of this controller like I said is my first time ;-3-
Yeah it does, just a kinda crappy one.
You can trace the GND line to each point using your eyes alone.
I appreciate for your supports guys but I still don’t get the meaning of ground lines do I have to solder them too or just the signals?