Nope, you’ll have to get busy with a soldering iron.
There’s not a ton to clean wiring. Leave the wires long. Can cut them to size as you wire them into the stick. Bundle the wires into cables, one for each spot in the stick that wires will be going to. For example, in a PS3 stick, you’d have 2 or 3. 1 with all the buttons going to the terminal block, and one or two to the turbo panel with the PS3 USB, Home, and joystick leads. This is easiest with color coded wires, but you could also label the ends with a piece of tape. Check out my album or one of the other modders for examples.
This shouldn’t be a big deal. All the buttons are labeled on the Brawlpad pcb.
I’m aware of that! 
I’ll post pictures when i get the sticks done.
Just bought a WWE brawl stick (ps3) ordered some seimitsu and sanwa parts for it and want to change the artwork. Are there any vewlix templates for this stick, I would like for 2 versions if possible, the red/white one and the dark vewlix L one?
Thankyou
Hi, i’m pretty new in this modding sticks subject, so i will ask something… funny, i guess.
I’m reading a lot about this pcb on the TvC fighstick in order to play on the PS3. I’d like to know if those adapters for the Wii - USB won’t work in this case. I mean, it is possible to use the Classic Controller on the PS3 with that, so why not the TvC fightstick?
The reason i wanna do this is because here in Brazil it is extremely hard to find those SFIV fighsticks for PS3, and when we do, they’re selling for over R$ 400,00 (~ US$ 230,00). So, the TvC fighstick is pretty cheap around here, and there’s this possibility to mod it with new buttons. And the size is really pleasing.
By the way, this is the adapter i’m talking about:
http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-219316223-wii-classic-to-pcps3-adaptador-usb-p-controles-de-wii--_JM
Thanks in advance.
Techtalk, the side panel on my TE popped out after I “dropped” it. The little things that hold it to the main part of the stick are visible but it didn’t come unscrewed or anything. Is it okay to just try and pop it back into place?
Converter Compatibility Thread is the thread with most of the information regarding converters. Lots of people do use this, but some games (KOFXIII) have been known to not like the converters.
You can try, but some of the plastic molding may have become cracked and may not simply pop back in. It might be okay. I don’t really know how damaged it is. Doesn’t hurt to try, though, I suppose. If all else fails, you can order up replacement wooden sides and give it a cool, wooden look.
Thanks, I opened it up and popped it back in fairly easily. There are 3 plastic parts for each side, I’d imagine 2 is enough to hold it into place
I think the recent SNKP game patch may have fixed this issue.
Oh, neat. Needs a confirmation. I remember they had been real dicks about it, like “You wouldn’t expect it to work with a SNES controller, should we make it work for that, too? (Go Go Gummo!)” So, a patch fixing that would be unexpected, but a nice thing.
As far as I know they were forced to make a dramatic u-turn after the official Neo-Geo sticks released for PS3 did not work.
It was a laughable situation.
I’ve had it confirmed that the licensed sticks now work (the ones without a ‘Home’ button), so just need to confirm the converters.
Posted this in the artwork request thread, but thought I might try here too
Has anyone got a reproduction of the artwork on the old MvC2 TE?
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2158/22977413.png
I found a link in the old artwork thread to it, but the download was hosted on MegaUpload…so no chance of getting that. The user was sselemit
If you go further, there is actually another one made too.
By a different SRK Member.
Further or back.
I forgot.
I have a question for anyone who has experience dual-modding the x360 MadCatz WWE Brawlstick; I’m wanting to dual-mod using a ChImp SMD, but I’m looking at the circuit layout on the button connector board and it appears to be common ground EXCEPT the start button. I checked the circuit continuity on the main board and confirmed the common ground between the joystick and the rest of the buttons, but the start button seems to still use a separate ground (pin is labeled KGND on both boards).
Will the fact that the start button doesn’t share the same common ground with the rest of the buttons put a damper on my dual-mod plans? If not, could someone please give me a hint how to work around this? I did a search to see if anyone else had the same issue, but I didn’t turn up anything.
Thanks in advance!
KGND is connected to the Lockswitch. It is for Kill Ground. Whenever the switch is in the locked position, the KGND is not connected to anything, so the pushing of the button does not connect the signal wire to the Ground of the PCB, so it’s never engaged, to the PCB.
When the lockswitch is unlocked, KGND is connected to Ground. So, when button is pushed, signal gets connected to Ground, and acts normally.
You don’t have to do any extra connections. One ground from the BrawlStick PCB to the ChImp SMD will be sufficient. All the KGND will do is preserve the locking of the buttons like normal.
Don’t forget to find the POO on the PCB. There’s a little POO on it.
Ah, ok. That makes perfect sense. Thanks a bunch, Nerrage!
Also, I found the POO on the board - second pin down on the top connector leading to the turbo board. What does POO do?
Or am I missing a joke? 
It’s a joke. I think it’s actually P00.
It’s for the function that causes holding the select button to quickly activate the joystick as outputting analog directions, as opposed to using the slider switch.
The PCB is Common Ground.
Just wire everything as you would normally.
All inputs for Arcade Stick that you want is Common to the Ground.
You only have to wire up the pin above P00 if you are using the BrawlStick PCB alone without the Turbo Panel.
Thanks a bunch, Nerrage and jdm714. You guys rock!
Man, Tech Talk has some great, helpful folks. 