The same, dude.
I believe it will work if you take the button out, then place the nut under the bracket and screw the button into it. Or to put it another way: Place the nut in it’s final position and screw in the button into it instead of placing the button into its final position and screwing the nut onto it.)
So I’m planning on getting a Mad Catz TE S Stick in a couple days, and replacing the buttons, ball top, dust washer, and shaft cover with an all-green Sanwa on top of a black acrylic top. I’m wondering if anyone would happen to know if the shaft covers and dust washers offered on the Game Shark Store are the same colors as the rest the Sanwa parts? For reference:
http://store.gameshark.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4890&idCategory=329 Shaft Cover & Dust Washer
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-OBSF-30-30mm-Pushbutton-Green_p_358.html Pushbuttons
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-LB-35-Ball-Top-Green_p_284.html Ball Top
They are, I ordered the orange bezel and shaft cover and they matched the sanwa colour exactly.
I did the same as you (inc the black plexi) but in orange 
Cool, thanks!
Hey, do you have any pictures of a 24mm button you’ve done with a 3mm led in it?
Okay, I’m trying to get my Mayflash Fighting Stick open to check the PCB date but it just won’t come open. I’ve removed the only two screws on the entire thing and nothing seems lose at all.
I also wanted to replace the top panel, but everything is connected except for the metal plate at the bottom. (The sides are attached to the top panel.)
Here is the Mayflash stick I have. It’s different from the one that I’ve seen everyone else use.
Thanks in advance.
Hurm…
I’ve not seen that model before. It looks like a Hori FS3 but with a really long shaft and giant JLW style dustwasher. Would be interesting to see if it uses a common ground pcb…
Are there any screws underneath the rubber pads you missed?
Yeah, there’s probably screws underneath the rubber pads. I feel stupid now. XD I just didn’t want to take them off since they look like they’re glued on.
How would I be able to tell if it uses a common ground PCB? (Without actually touching anything.) I don’t want to do much more than open this so I can see the year on the PCB.
If you can take some closeup hi-res pics of it then that would help. Both sides of the board if possible.
Okay, I’ll try to see if I can get a hold of a camera. I have no experience taking the PCB out of the case though.
But wow, this looks like I got a really bad one. The board for the buttons is all scratched. Also, there is lots of glue on the back of the PCB. This is not a very good Mayflash to modify. I think the universal model is probably better.
Is there a LED mod that has the lights on all the time instead of being push activated?
Sure! Toodles’ FG Widget LED controller has an inverted mode, where the lights are always on and turn OFF on activation.
I don’t know if this is the right place to ask but what would be a good capture card to use for game capture?
You just do not wire the LED to Button.
They will always be on when you plug in Arcade Stick.
Or can install a switch so you can turn off and on of the LED while Arcade Stick is playing.
Hello, Im new to SRK. And new to SF as well. Played some tekken here and there, and a lot of MK(don’t hold it against me) Anyway my problem/ question is: I have always used a pad, (ps2) and lately I have really wanted to learn to play on a stick, I have a MK pdp stick but don’t dig it because I’m younger a missed out on the arcade glory days and never really got used to the X layout the PDP has. Its too far apart for my hands and i feel i would like viewlix layout or something similar. I have done my research and i would prefer sanwa parts, and a six button layout. Six buttons mainly because i can see myself hitting the extra two buttons a lot by mistake at first. Plus i won’t need the extra two buttons.
The problem is I can’t find a stick outside of the custom builds(which is more than i want to pay at the moment)
I really like the HRAP but its 8 buttons. I don’t care for the TE because id rather have a plain stick no art. I checked out the hori v3 and its six buttons i believe, But its compact… i may go with this but what kind of parts and quality is it compared to the HRAP?
Also is there any other options out there i missed? any mods or ways to make an 8 button a six button?
My perfect layout would be a 6 button all sanwa with two buttons on the side. Guys I’m a noob when it comes to sticks so please help me make a good choice for my upcoming purchase. Let me know what my options are.
Feel free to PM me or just reply here on the thread, ill check back tomorrow. Thanks everyone!
The most obvious solution would be to take out the two buttons you don’t want and cover the holes with plugs.
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-OBSM-30-30mm-Hole-Plug_p_368.html
.
You could also leave the buttons in and disable them in game. Most games let you do that now. Or you could just unplug the buttonsfrom the wires and leave the buttons in there.
Hi
I use a Hauppauge HD PVR, I don’t think I have this exact model but have one that looks like it.
www.amazon.com/Hauppauge-1445-Definition-Personal-Recorder/dp/B005P5UMVM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1328158678&sr=8-2
However the machine does allow you to record in 720p, it does not allow you to record in 1080p (only 1080i).
There was a thread out there in Shoyruken forums where a guy wanted something besides a Hauppauge HD PVR because it sometimes had tearing & flickering. You can find that thread here at
They bring up several alternatives to the Hauupauge but I am not familiar with any of them to give opinions on what does or does not work.
Personally I don’t find any flickering in my recordings. However on very rare occassions there is tearing. These occassions do not seem to be often or related to time spent with the machine in use or anything like that. Rather the tearing only seems to occur when something extra flashy occurs.
In my experience 99% of the time everything is fine.
However when I am recording Marvel Vs Capcom 3 and Ryu does a super fireball, or phoenix does a super fireball, and the screen turns black except your character performing his super and there are TONS of bright lights everywhere, then maybe 1-5 frames out of 120 may tear. You may notice it, but it is kind of negligible to the casual viewer.
Example of when I record something and it did NOT tear (atleast not as far as I could tell)
[media=youtube]d2ji1Opthhc[/media]
Example of when I record something and it DID tear a few frames
I feel the Hauppauge is very good because I only saw this screen tearing with the supers of some characters consistently out of the hundreds of MvC3 gifs I’ve made (each of which made from Hauppauge recordings). I have possibly made over a thousand gifs, nearly every one made from Hauppauge recordings and only find this tearing in certain games under certain circumstances. From what I could tell, 99% of the time it was without error.
Hello, I’ve got a noob question ^_^;;
I’ve just finished soldering a bunch of wires to the X,Y,B,A,LB,RB,LT, and RT of two xbox 360 controllers. When I went to check if I didn’t GAUNTLET HADES the controller or not, it worked fine in the Xbox menu (although I can’t recall if the triggers or bumpers worked in the menu). However, when I went into training mode in UMvC3, the game would only register the A input. Strangely, I know for sure that the B input works (I could back out of the mode selection screen), but not register as an input for an attack (this applies for a lot of the other buttons, but it’s a slightly different one on each controller).
So…whats going on?
As a side note, each one of my buttons has a wire running to from the signal (?) to the button and out to a corresponding ground (?) (I assumed the solder-able place opposite of the signal would be the ground… o_o;;). Is that related?