Thank you very much Funky!
How much wire do I need to make a custom arcade stick?
I plan on buying 22-24 AWG wire, but I don’t know how much I need. The stick I’m going to make will be similar in size to a TE.
Also should I get stranded or solid wire? Or does it not matter?
Okay, I didn’t see this covered anywhere else, so I’ll just ask here.
I play with the TE on my lap, and I want to remove the pegs on the underside of the TE, but still do want some traction (Like maybe laying a rough(but flat) pad over the entire bottom). how would I go about doing this without killing my access to the screws down there?
Help With Mayflash modding problem
After putting in Sanwa buttons and a JLF stick I plugged the Mayflash (2009 PCB) into my PS2 and got no response whatsoever from the stick.I have no clue what could be the problem because I soldered everything according to this diagram, and read guides from this forum.Here are pics of my work on the stick so far:
Stick Topside
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/337137ab.jpg
(I left in the two stock buttons as makeshift buttons plugs)
Stick innards
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/6397e5d0.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/debdc2dd.jpg
Buttons
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/84d2159f.jpg
JLF joystick
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/3b3c48c8.jpg
PCB
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/9d395add.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/9ff5a7b9.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k90/dspimage/a02a0c16.jpg
I tested the stick before I gutted it and it worked fine on PS2.I then kept it in a drawer till my parts came, so I doubt it’s the PCB that’s broken.The only other problem I can think of is because I left out the two buttons at the end.
Thanks for any help, I hope there’s a simple fix.
Did you cut the Traces on Sanwa JLF?
That is need to be done.
Also, not all Mayflash have same color wires for Ground and Signal.
Sometimes Ground is red and Signal is black.
Sometimes Signal is red and Ground is black.
So you can’t always follow a picture.
You have to look at your PCB.
Ok but shouldn’t the buttons at least be working even if they aren’t soldered into the corresponding part of button PCB?If one button is out of place will it stop everything else working?
Also what do you mean by traces on the Sanwa JLF?
Oh, you meant the Arcade Stick as whole.
Thought you meant only Joystick.
Leaving Buttons not connected does not cause any problems.
Does not matter if rewire out of place.
Nothing looks wrong from your pictures.
Just that you stripped too much insulation from wires is all; they incredibly exposed.
Shortage somewhere?
Heated up PCB too long?
http://pineconeattack.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/23.jpg
Cutting Trace on TP-MA.
(Image by Jangofatt from http://pineconeattack.com/2009/03/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-ex2hori-wii-fighting-stick-with-actual-sanwa-joystick-and-buttons/ site.)
http://pineconeattack.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/26.jpg
Solder directly to Microswitches, either under PCB or there.
(Image by Jangofatt from http://pineconeattack.com/2009/03/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-ex2hori-wii-fighting-stick-with-actual-sanwa-joystick-and-buttons/ site.)
Or you can solder off the Microswitches from TP-MA.
Dispose of the PCB and just use the Microswitches.
OK the above did work and my stick is now fully functioning!
For the people who have hrap ex/se. Does it come with the mic port? if so, where?
I’m new to using an arcade stick…I just got the Mad Catz TE stick and I’m trying to change the artwork…I’ve found videos on how to open it up and all that…I just need the artwork now…I’m trying to make my own and have a bunch of different templates to use…my question is why do they seem so big? Even the templates of other people’s artwork…I’m using Photoshop…when I bring them up and click on view actual size, it’s massive! Is this normal? Would I just bring this picture as a jpeg to Kinko’s to print? Do I have to re-size at all? I’ve searched a lot but there’s so many threads on this topic…please help and be kind I’m new to this : p
It is correct.
Do not resize the PSD.
Print at 100% (No Scale), 300 DPI.
If you do bring to FedEx Kinkos, be sure to tell them not to Fit to Scale.
Their computers are default for that.
You do not want.
But I do save it as a jpeg? or gif?or just leave it psd? any specific kind of paper?
Leave as whatever image format you want.
Just do not resize it, and make sure they don’t resize it.
Are you going to have a Custom Acrylic Panel to protect art?
Or are you going to protect by having laminate?
probably just laminate…i have now idea how to do the custom acrylic panel
Just buy everything from arthong then.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=183523
He provides Print and Cut Service and makes Custom Acrylic Panel.
Or did you not want to do that?
I’ve only seen two people use laminate on their Tournament Edition.
Looks kind of funny.
Laugh.
Right on man, Didn’t notice that lil block is port. Thanks.
Do you remember the names or where the pics are? I’m curious to see what a Mame Marquees print would look like on the TE, and if it has any texture to it.
Could someone tell me the size, or even better where to get 6 replacement hex screws for the deck of the madcatz TE stick? I stripped a bolt on accident and my buddy who dremeled them out tossed them when he was finished. Thanks!