Sounds like a good deal to me.
Yes, now when others ask, I don’t have to tell them cut Traces on JLF-TP-8.
Just order JLF-TM-8 from Lizard Lick.
looks like rtdzign deleted his post. Did he suggest a test?
You’re right, I didn’t think about the Hori PCB having a problem. Could well be the culprit for all I know, and I’d hate to order all that stuff from Lizard Lick and not solve the problem. How to test Hori PCB?
thanks, JT
Easiest way would be to press in the microswitch yourself (just remove it from the base). If you get a response from the game, it’s not the PCB.
I think what you did before already confirmed from testing.
You said you can now go UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT.
DOWN before was not working for you.
I don’t know what you did.
Laugh.
Ok, simple test.
Disconnect the Microswitches.
Remember which Microswitch was the DOWN that not work.
Move the Microswitches to another position.
Like move the DOWN to Left or something.
Connect back.
See if the direction of where your DOWN Microswitch now exhibit problem.
If there is problem with new direction, then DOWN Microswitch is not being good.
If Down Direction is still bad, then it is not Microswitch.
Be then PCB or wire problem
I like that test. I’ll do it tonite and report my findings.
just to clarify from before. I am able to go up, down, left, right. I cannot, however, go down/back or down/ forward. As a result, I cannot crouch block from either side in SF, which is a bad thing! Individually, each microswitch seems to work fine, though.
Will do test soon . . . . .
Sorry I posted something before reading the entire thread. From your tests it look like my suggestion would be a waste of time. I would suggest now that you do not remove the microswitches from the wire.
When you do a test try checking if the shaft is pushing both microswitches at the same time, or if your gate or joystick is bent or something. If it is the PCB it might require a complicated PCB swap with a Madcatz Fightpad. Check out slagcoin.com in the PCB section to see what that entails.
Edit:
On second thought, since the Madcatz SE is like $50 right now you could take the PCB off that and swap the electronics with nothing more than a screw driver and a JLF PCB. Home button will take a little hacking to work I think.
so I took off the restrictor gate, rotated all microswitches by 90 degrees, and tested it out. All directions seemed to work fine. So I switched 'em back, and I dunno what to say, but everything was working ok for awhile (about 20 min).
Now the problem seems to be back. This was similar to the other day when I simply took the restrictor gate off and rotated it 180 degrees. Worked for about 15 min before the down/back and down/forward directionals were busted again.
Maybe something loosens when I play? The microswitches? They seem to feel pretty snug in there right now, with the restrictor gate on.
Getting increasingly frustrated. Will probably get new parts from Lizard Lick. Still doesn’t eliminate a possible PCB issue.
Is it possible that the impact from the fall directly onto the actual stick would’ve somehow maybe bent/damaged the mounting plate? Could that be a logical reason as to why down back, down forward directions are not working properly?
well, I’m really at a loss, but I guess in a good way.
I tried tightening up the mounting plate, although to be honest with u the screws were already on super tight, so not sure what difference it made. I then cleaned the stick area where it touches the red little clickable thingies on the microswitches.
Now, the joystick seems to working fine, and has been for the last half hour. Keeping fingers crossed.
so finally there is a happy ending.
Since the last update, my kid broke the joystick again! learning to not keep the joystick on a table anytime she is around . . .
anyways, the short story is that Hori was kind enough to replace my joystick, free of charge. The whole kit and kaboodle. I just swapped out the stock buttons for Sanwa, and man, what a difference. I am really glad I did that.
big props to Hori for customer service.
That is very cool.
bushinfist, could you tell me again what Microswitches are in your new Sanwa JLF-TM-8?
Because I don’t think they are always the same.
If I’m not mistaken I think I answered your question earlier in the thread. I can’t answer it now because I just screwed the entire thing together and don’t ever plan to take it apart again (hopefully!)
I know you already answered it.
But that was for the old JLF-TM-8.
Oh well.
It is probably the same OMRON V-10-1A5.