AAARGH! Hori Real Pro Arcade joystick is broken! Please Help!

So I finally upgraded from the Hori EX2 to the Hori Real Arcade Pro Joystick for the 360. I got in a few good weeks of use, but last nite my 18 month old daughter pulled the joystick off the table and it hit the floor. I found it laying upside down (joystick was touching the floor).

Anyways, I cannot crouch anymore, period. So looks like it’s hosed. Does anybody have any advice on how to fix, or do I frickin’ need to buy a new one (again!) there is no much info on Hori on the internet. I bought the joystick off somebody on ebay . . . .

any help is greatly appreciated, JT

My guess is one of the wires to crouch down may come off and u need to solder it or microswitch is busted. U need to open and get pic for more info so ppl can help u out.

Take it apart, look inside, take some pictures, and then we’ll help out.

that uses a sanwa joystick correct? it might just be the microswitch. you can buy a whole replacement switch assembly.


I will take it apart and post pics in the next day or two. . thanks for the advice, all.

same thing happened to a happ custom stick i have. dropped it and could no longer hit down. opened it and turns out i had to resolder the wire

ok, finally took the thing apart. . .wasn’t very easy! Here are 2 picts, one a bit more zoomed in than the other. Any help is greatly appreciated. Not being to play SF HD Remix without a joystick is just killing me. Can’t seem to tell if anything is disconnected or came apart. Not sure what microswitch is either . . . .

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trying again . .

were you holding the joystick “up” in the second picture? anyways looks like the wires arn’t only soldered on tight, but glued on too. from the looks of it the “down” microswitch has been damaged. your two choices are to replace just the microswitch, about $3, or replace the whole switch assembly, which goes for about $!2 for all four switches. remember to label each wire so its easier for you to put it back together after.

The joystick was leaning against something, and that’s why it looks like I was holding it up in the 2nd picture.

thanks for your response, majinmajor. A few additional questions . . . .

  1. how can you tell the down microswitch is damaged? Where is the “microswitch”?
  2. would u recommend switching out the microswitch, or the entire switch assembly? (what is easier to do?)

if you do end up replacing just the switch heres a diagram.

Sanwa JLF-TM-8, which is in HRAP EX, HRAP EX SA, does not have PCB Microswitch Assembly.
Sanwa JLF-TP-8, does have PCB Microswitch Assembly; TP-MA.

So switch out one Microswitch if you want.
Or replace all four just to have be same.

Or can buy Sanwa TP-MA and use.
But since HRAP EX, HRAP EX SA, HRAP EX SE non-Common Ground, need modification.

Cutting Trace on TP-MA.
(Image by Jangofatt from site.)

Solder directly to Microswitches, either under PCB or there.
(Image by Jangofatt from site.)

You can solder off the Microswitches from TP-MA.
Dispose of the PCB and just use the Microswitches.

thanks for the correctin

sorry guys, lots of vernacular over my head . . . .

thanks everybody for your responses.

  1. how can I tell that the Down microswitch is broken? looks the same to me as the other microswitches . . .I just stared at the thing and still cannot tell.

  2. soldering, etc. . all sounds complicated. Do I need special tools? how to begin? is there a FAQ?

  3. Where do I purchase the part(s)? Any recommendations?

  4. alot of the abbreviations/acronyms I am unfamiliar with . . . what is PCB? what is the correct switch I should get for an Hori Real Arcade Pro for the 360?

How you guys can tell that the Microswitch for Down is now bad?
They all look the same to me.

Have to do by testing.

Don’t want to solder?
Use Quick Disconnects.

Won’t be buying a TP-MA though.

Snip off the wires near the Microswitch Terminals.
Strip off end of each wire.

Crimp on .187" Quick Disconnects with Crimper Tool.
No Tool? Use pliers.

Remove Restrictor Gate.
Remove the four Microswitches.

Replace with four other Microswitches.
Replace Restrictor Gate.

Slide on Quick Disconnects to Microswitch Terminals.
Will go on COM and NO.

BAM! You are done.

Microswitches from; Sanwa MS-O-3R.

Happ #95-0733-01 Cherry Microswitches if you want.
But Happ does not sell or use Cherry anymore.

Use Microswitches from your HORI Fighting Stick EX2 if you have to.

Quick Disconnect from RadioShack, or online.

  1. Try shorting out the 2-wires on the top micro switch, with it plug in and on, to see if the down signal registers.
  2. Radio Shack. 35 watt iron is plenty good. Soldering faq?; there are some on youtube.
  3. Radio Shack for the iron and solder. Lizardlick for the stick part(s)
  4. Printed Circuit Board. Sanwa MS-O-3R is replacement, MS-0-2P Microswitch will work well enough.

starting to sink in. Will order the down switch and go from there, probably use quick disconnect.

May have more questions soon. . but thanks very much for the help so far. Merry Xmas all. :slight_smile:

If you’re worried about soldering…tear apart something old or broken. Stereo…alarm clock…anything with a circuit board and solder some wires to it. It’s pretty simple, just need a little practice.

interesting suggestion. So I think I will poach a microswitch from my old EX2 (funnily enough the reason why I upgraded to the Real Arcade Pro is bec. the EX2 down switch is busted as well. . but it was definitely from lots of use).

I assume the microswitches for up, down, left, right, are all the same correct? i.e. there isn’t a specific switch per direction . . . . .