2 PCB's in one stick - Possible?

couple quick questions, I’m about to add a ps1 digital pad to my HRAP3. I’m planning to solder the button wires directly onto the quick disconnect coming from the HRAP3 PCB. Does it matter which wire I solder on for each button? Both are the same color for each button so I’m not sure which one is ground.

2nd, since the HRAP3 PCB is already grounded, all I need to do is to solder a single ground wire to the HRAP3 PCB ground? I won’t need to solder grounds to each individual button and joystick direction, right?

Here’s a quick sketch of what I had in mind. I just borrowed the diagram from the 1st page. Sorry for the messiness.

Will this setup work?

dunno how they put the disconnects on stock in an hrap but you can take away some guess work if you just soldered direct to the pcb like in here http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=5400292&postcount=1155

above tutorial is for dual modding with 360 but you can apply how to dual mod it with a psx pcb or any other common ground pcb.

I want to get my HRAP3 modded to work on PlayStation 2 console? What would I need to do?

Would I need to have the controller port sticking out of the arcade stick and use the PCB inside the arcade stick? I want to do this because I am going to Uni in a month and I am pretty restricted on funds

Many Thanks

wow this is a neet idea im a student studying electrical engineering ill probably consider making one it looks pretty simple just have em wired to both pcb and ground them both .although i never made a stick before since i dont got the tools to make the box but ill see. gonna get a job and start ordering parts ;0

Im normally good at this sort of thing :slight_smile:
How would you go about wiring it up if you have a non common line 360 pad and a ps1 pad?

is it possible to have a wireless ps3 + 360 stick?

oh man, those damn non common line pcbs :’(

okay, here’s the deal, it’s my first mod, I just a an hrap ex and a chinese ps1/2/3/pc ready pcb and I want to dual pcb mod that hrap.

problem is that the hrap ex’s pcb has a common line for evry single connections. (I’d guess the pcb is it’s the exact same as the ex2 one)

I read through the whole thread, but like I said it’s my first mod and I don’t wanna screw my hrap.

so can I do this ? if yes how ?
here’s some crappy pictures I just took:

overview(yeah, already changed the btns layout), the JLF-TM-8T-SK-K has no 5 pin connector (obvious for a non common pcb, no ?)(btw what’s with the soldered piece where the JLF is mounted on ? is it the same for every HRAP ? what other joystick can or can’t I mount on mine then ?)>
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/9696/hrapexoverviewpreviewdt2.jpg http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/3834/hrapexjlftm8tskkpreviewid2.jpg

HRAP pcb front, back
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/7901/hrapexpcb2previewkt7.jpg http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/4026/hrapexpcb1previewvq3.jpg
(1st pic, down and right color cables are the buttons, upper right the JLF connections, top is mic and left is X-guide buttons, on the 2nd pic top connector is usb cable)

the chinese ps1/2/3/pc ready pcb, front, back
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/204/ps123pcoverviewpreviewja1.jpg http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/6318/ps123pcpcb2previewbu7.jpg http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/5804/ps123pcpcb1previewze1.jpg
(1st pic common cable for buttons, 5pin connector for the joystick)
2nd pic, start, select, buttons, gnd, joystick (only one ground is soldered but I guess I could use all 8 connections for my JLF ?)

can I do it like that? the diode+fuse idea were nice too. does any body has a live pic on how it’s supposed to look like and what fuse tu use ? (diodes references, I already got on the previous pages)

sorry if I bored you guys to death with my problems but I’d really appreciate any kind of help and advice !

thanks a million in advance :slight_smile:

There’s no way to do it that would be easier or cheaper than ditching the EX2 pcb and using a madcatz CG gamepad.

okay, that’s what I though :
thanks for being honest :smiley:

can I still solder the original hori X-guide button to the madcatz pcb ?
what about the mic ? (I was planning on getting a wireless anyway so it’s okay not to have a wired input I guess)
btw, I just tested my ps1-2-3/pc ready pcb, it’s the one from the mayflash arcade stick

Hey guys I am about to try and dual mod my HRAP2 with a mad catz X360 controller and I am a little foggy on a couple things. I am a total noob so bear with me.
I am using the HRAP2 PCB for PS2 support but I am unclear as to what to do with the ground wire(s) going out to the terminal strip.
Hori has it so that each button has a ground on the PCB. From a previous post in this thread Toodles confirmed that the HRAP2 PCB does use a common ground. So what exactly would I do with all the ground wires? Should I cut them off and just solder a wire from any ground pad? Or do I need to track down where all the traces lead to on the PCB and solder there?
Here is a pic of the HRAP2 PCB (yes i know the pic sucks)
If someone could clear this up for me it would be much appreciated.

Ok folks, I can’t seem to find any reference to using a single USB cable for a PS3 and XBox 360 pad. I have read hints around here but nothing concrete that I could find. This would seem to be the thread that it should be in anyway.

Mr.Nemoperson, any of the ground points on the HRAP2 PCB should do the trick.

TTFN
Kaytrim

  • edit * I found a diagram a few pages back but there seemed to be some disagreement as to if it was correct or not. Could someone please confirm if this works and post a pic of a stick where this was done? Thanks

toodles said you could try a usb hub. I saw a slimline straight one that could save alot of space than those circle types. Bit more expensive though.

Which part is unclear?
Everything in this thread shows you how to connect two PCBs so they both work, with two cables, one from each PCB, hanging out the back.
If those two cables are both USB, like PS3 and xbox360, then it seems silly to have two identical cables. Each USB cable has four wires: power, ground, and two wires for the actual communication called D+ and D-. We know the two power wires (one from each USB cable) are connected together inside; we had to do that to get the dual PCB to work. Ditto for ground. So all we have to deal with is the two communication wires from each PCB.
A DPTDT switch (Dual Pole, Dual Throw) has two wires coming out (the ‘dual pole’) and each of those two can be connected to either one of two pair of wires coming in (the ‘dual throw’). If the switch is one way, the center ‘out’ wires are connected to the two on the left, and if the switch is the other way, the center wires are connected to the two on the right.
We use this so the D+ and D- wires on the single USB cable coming out will be connected to the D+ and D- wires on the single PCB we want to deal with, either PS3 or xbox360.

Could you be a bit more specific than that?

The diagram post by A.C. on the previous page works fine. I’ve done it that way with a few times.

I understand the purpose of the DPDT switch but how do I know which wire is D+ and which is D-? Shin Ace was the one that muddied the waters.

Thanks,
Kaytrim

You dont have to worry about that too much. See, the USB standard includes the color coding of the wires inside the cable. If you look at just about any USB pad you have and check the wires where they go into the board, the D+ and D- and white and green. I may have those backwards, but it doesn’t matter. Just remember for each pad which was originally green and which was originally white.

The business end of the DPDT switch looks a bit like this:

A B C
D E F

Connect the white line of the USB cable going out to the B terminal. Connect the spot on your ps3 board that had a white wire in it to A. Connect the spot on your xbox360 board that had a white wire to C.
Connect the green line of the USB cable going out to the E terminal. Connect the spot on your ps3 board that had a green wire in it to D. Connect the spot on your xbox360 board that had a green wire to F.

Just keep track of which was a white wire, and which was a green wire, and it should come together beautifully.

wait, this is slightly confusing for me to understand. why exactly do i need to connect the 2 power terminal things together? wouldn’t both pcb’s work regardless? (i guess i’m trying to avoid 1 less piece of solder screwup)

To be clear, in order to do something like this, I’ll need common ground on my PCB’s?

I’m getting a little more ambitious with my project now and want to have it work for both my ps2 for Guilty Gear and 360 for ST:HD.

This is what I understand as the purpose of connecting the two boards together in this way. Even though one board is not sending signals to a console it still needs power so as to not confuse the other board. I may be putting this in an over simplified manner. If I am wrong I know that someone will correct me.

Yes both boards need to be common ground. In other words if you connect single ground line to the signal line for each button or joystick direction you should get a signal sent to the console. The most recent 360 pads IIRC are common ground but don’t quote me on that. Go to slagcoin.com and check out the schematics posted for each game pad.

TTFN
Michael

so i wouldn’t need to connect both power sources on both pcb’s?