I know this might be different than most. I still see this as two PCB’s in one stick. I use this on my Modded SF Anniversary Stick. I have the buttons hooked up to barrier strips then from there I have a db 25 port.
It fits inside the Box itself, right below the stick. Industrial Velcro holds it in.
I recently received a 6-switch db25. I’ll get around to using it eventually, I’m sure. Not exactly sure what the best way of using it is, but I guess I’ll just have to figure that out.
It has the 6 db25 female outlets, and 1 In/Out. I guess, I just wire the actual arcade switches to the in/out, and then wire the PCB buttons to the actual, db25 switches.
Edit: For reference, this is what I bought: http://www.computercablestore.com/6_Way_DB25_Manual_Switchb_PID169.aspx
I don’t think all those PCB’s can fit in there…
Plus it’ll be a bitch to carry, but I guess better then 6 project boxes.
This thread has really inspired me. I am now determined to make a stick with 360/PS3/Wii/GC support. Think of the usefulness!
Err, does anyone know if the Pelican 3-system PCB is common ground? I’d like to stick it in a stick with a VSHG and MadCatz PCB as well… That’d support quite a lot of systems!
EDIT: No, the Pelican 3-system PCB is not common ground. Dang.
That’s because the SFAC stick uses a common 5V setup rather than common ground setup, doesn’t it?
I just purchased a VSHG and wanted to do a dual pcb set up. I have two questions. Question 1 is I want to do a dual pcb set up with an xbox 360 pcb. If I hook up both pcbs to a small hub when I hook up the usb plug out of the hub will I fry my console/computer. I want to eliminate having two usb plugs coming out of the stick to ease confusion.
Question two is assuming I can run the set up that I explained above with the hub, when I decide to hook up the stick to a computer will I have problems playing a game. I assume I would because I would technically have two different controllers plugged in at once.
I’m sorry if I don’t make sense I just got out of work a little while ago and I’m beat ass tired. God damn graveyard shift :mad:.
This is the best way to do it: http://virtuafighter.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/175874/fpart/1
using a DPDT switch to toggle between the data lines of the 2 PCBs and using only one cable.
EDIT: But of course the guy below me says your way is fine too. I’d rather have just one cable though.
It should work fine with no frying. You still need to connect each button to both PCB’s, and they still need to be powered, but outside of wiring mistakes, there isn’t any reason it should fry. This idea was suggested a number of months ago.
You would have two controllers plugged in and working simultaneously, but that shouldnt be any problem.
This isn’t a priority project at this point, but when I incorporate the switch, I won’t really be using the steel-casing. It’ll just be part of a big-surfaced arcade controller (it’ll be on the inside essentially, unseen, except for a custom switch on the outside. )
Thanks toodles appreciate your help
I’m planning to conect a PS1 and an x360 (madcatz live arcade stick - common ground) PCB together and since I’ll only use them with regular sanwa/seimitsu sticks, am I right to assume I can skip step 2 and don’t need to find and connect +5v pins? Or is it still needed? 
^ It’s still needed or the controls will get all wonky.
I may be wrong here - but the product he linked was a switchbox… not a “PCB server” (for lack of a better term). The idea is novel however. You would simply attach your 6 project boxes to this switch & then run a single cable to your joystick. Then, depending on which system you are using, you toggle which channel the switchbox passes.
I could see this working (well) if a person has a dedicated A/V rack where all the hardware is stored. That way your cabling would remain permanent & you wouldn’t haven’t to plug/unplug anything ever.
I’ve seen similar switchboxes which are remote controlled… which would add even another layer of convenience.
Thank you for the answer, Tetsuosan!
I wanted to ask for more details on the cause, but then I just read the whole thread again and now I’m totally confident in what I do. :woot:
Should have done it in the first place instead of spamming, tbh. 
If you’re going to wire multiple PCBs, I recommend using a diode on the power lead of each pcb.
Something like http://www.geocities.com/alainprice/5v.bmp
That way, you can actually plug it into mutiple consoles at once and not have to worry. In fact, you can play multiple games at once. The pads will draw power from the highest voltage source.
The last resort is a switch to choose which cord supplies power to all the pads.
The reason you need to power them is because they’re digital circuits using ICs. If you don’t power all the ICs in a circuit(all the pads), the circuit probably won’t work.
You can also add circuits to power LEDs and so forth using the same principle.
p.s. please do not connect the +5v wires of multiple pads without a switch or diodes.
Hi
I’ve read most of this thread and i think this is a proper way of having multiple PCBs?
Assuming both are common ground PCBs is there any reason this shouldn’t work?
Excuse the MSpaint skills… :\
Thanks.
Dude, I know you said to excuse it but that drawing…
You don’t need a switch to toggle between 2 different PCBs unless they’re sharing the same cord (such as 360 and PS3 both using a single USB cable).
You need to wire up the +v and ground of the pcbs to each other. There is a picture earlier in the thread. I don’t know whether that switch is effective or not, but I think it’s the wrong way to wire up a switch.
Or you could do what I do: put both systems so far away from each other that it is physically impossible to have them both plugged in at once!
I might give the diodes a shot for my next stick though. I’m not sure I fully understand the diagram though… you’re basically butting a loop in the +v with a diode? Do you not also connect the grounds too?
