Does anyone see a problem with pairing a Toodles Chimp SMD (3v) with a SFAE 8v pcb?
I am concerned that the larger than normal voltage difference might cause problems.
My initial concern was that the SFAE PCB might overpower and damage the chimp. But after testing it seems that it is actually under powering it. When using it on the xbox the blue power light on the chimp is not as bright as usual and becomes dimmer when a button is pushed. It becomes even dimmer when multiple buttons are pushed, and goes out when 4 buttons are pushed. Once the pcb is receiving 4 or more inputs it begins to behave strangely, registering button pushes that are not actually occurring like rapid fire jabs (I imagine this is similar to what happens if the 2nd pcb was not powered). It all seems to work fine on pc and ps3 and I have not yet tested it on a playstation 2.
My main concern is that i may potentially damage some hardware but would be interested to know if my assumption about teh underpowing is correct or not. I can live the odd behavior on multiple button presses when using the xbox since i only occasionally use it to play 3rd strike and dont have a need to mash multiple buttons at once when playing that game.
OKAY! So Ive read this ENTIRE thread from beginning to end, and I think I know what Iām doing but just wanted to make sure my plan is airtight before i go in, soldering iron ablaze. I have a HRAP3SA that I want to make PS2 compatible and Iām planning on soldering in a PSOne DualShock.
1.Connect 3.3v on PSX pad to 5v on HRAP pcb
2.Connect ground from PSX pcb to HRAP pcb
3.Connect corresponding buttons and directionals from PSX pcb to quick disconnects and joystick terminals on HRAP pcb
4.Profit?
PLEASE correct me if Iām wrong on this. Iāve worked with electronics before (electric guitars) and am comfortable soldering, but joysticks are a bit different and I want to be sure Iām doing the right thing. Thanks in advance!
Hello, Iām currently having a problem with PS3 TE - PS2 dual mod where the stick works with the PS2 but does not work with the PS3, similar to this personās problem in this thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/weird-te-stick-ps3-problem-255612/
When I plug the TE into the PS3, there is no recognition and the lights next to the turbo button all flash at the same time every 5 seconds or so. However, it does work perfectly with the PS2. Iām using a ps1 digital pad H, and Iām pretty sure Iāve followed all the rules properly: connected the grounds together, connected the signals together, and connected VCCs together. Here are some pictures:
Any suggestions? Is this not possible and should I give up? I was able to make this work with a 360 TE but here I am having problems. I know using a MC Chuthlu would be ideal, but I wanted to try a cheaper alternative first.
Thatās odd. Iām having exactly the same problem. My HRAP3SA still works with USB but When I plug it into my PS2, itās like the PSX pcb isnāt getting any power because nothing Iāve wired up works. Iām pretty sure Iāve wired everything correctly (as per Krost/Rybreadās tutorial on page 3 of this thread, though I havenāt wired EVERYTHING, just a few buttons to make sure Iām doing it right.) No dice so far.
Also, Iāve considered soldering the wires from the PSX pad to the BACK of the quick disconnects on the HRAP buttons. Will this work? I figure it SHOULD still make a connection, but I thought Iād ask before soldering everything up. Thanks in advanceā¦
Iāve checked all the soldering points. Y came off of the SE board, but otherwise, there isnāt anything that shouldāve caused every single input on my stick to stop being received. This stick has been working fine for four months of use BTW.
The only things I can consider it being are the Imp Switch or the Saulabi board. But then, Iāve had my SE board fry on my SE and Iāve still been able to use the Cthulhu, and why would the Imp cause inputs to drop, since it goes to sleep after the system has been selected, and only acts as a USB bridge?
So Iām clueless.
EDIT: Nevermind. Overlooked something. Somehow Ground between boards got severed. I resoldered the two points, and itās working fine now.
OKā¦so Iāve been searching a ton in tech and canāt find what Iām looking for.
I just got a PS3, so I want to mod my custom Microsoft 360 wireless common ground stick w/charge and play via neutric usb adapter and add the latest PS3 wireless PCB so I can play wireless & charge on both systems.
Short of doing the A/B switch, does anybody have a diagram/advice/link(s) on adding the latest PS3 wireless PCB to play nice with the Microsoft common 360 PCB?
Iām looking to dual-mod a Dreamcast Agetec arcade stick, using the original agetec PCB and a PS1 Dual Shock PCB.
The PS1 PCB is a Dual Shock rev H (early version) - this one. Now, Iām happy with the principle of what I need to do - wire ground to ground, VCC to VCC and connect the signals - but whatās got me puzzled is the two voltages available on the PS1 PCB. Is it best to use 3.3V or 7V? As I understand it, the DC PCB is 5V. I donāt want to wire it up to 7V if thatās going to fry it!
hello ! i am having a small problem with a dual mod i completed recently using a USB hub to work with xbox and ps3. I used a cheap usb hub. All my connections were tested for continuity with my multimeter and all the button presses possible register properly.
The problem: every minute or two the devices lose power and āresetā. I can see blips of the āplease connect a controllerā flash across the screen for a split second. I am trying my best to find possible reasons for this so i can try different things. Iām hoping to get hypotheses on why this is happening. The 2 PCBs being used are the Madcatz PS3 Round 2 TE stick PCB and the Madcatz Xbox360 Fightpad PCB
These pictures are probably not very helpful, but may provide insight.
Here are the possibilities i have thought of and tested for:
the hub is not providing enough power for both PCBs?
I was sure it was this, but if i disable the Xbox PCB completely the problem STILL occurs with ONLY the PS3 PCB plugged into the Hub.
my connections are faulty?
I thought this was the reason, however the problem DISAPPEARS when i take the PS3 PCB USB and plug it directly into the PS3. Then i thought it must be the main USB wire that goes from the hub to the console that is faulty, so i cut it shorter (the white wire going into the USB hub, in the second picture) and re soldered the wires together very meticulously and tested it. But the problem persists.
I want to think itās just the USB hub that is no good. But i am sure itās not just that simple. I will buy a new one later today and test it but in the meantime i would really appreciate some advice ! THANK YOU !
Iām leaving this behind for anyone interested or anyone who ends up having the same issue. The problem was indeed the USB hub. I changed it for a CHEAPER hub and everything works perfectly. Turbo button works on both PS3 and xbox for scrolling shooters, RS DP LS switch work on both consoles for navigation or any game that may require a use of one of those analogs. Plug and play into either console without pressing any buttons or pulling switches. The usb ports in the back work very well too, i was able to charge and use my keypad while playing without a problem.
So i have been and i feel that I am getting the grasp of things, sort of at least. I must say I thought it would be a lot easier at first but this seems to be manageable if I take my time. So basically what i want to do is put a PS360 pcb in a madcatz SE stick for the wii. Thus giving me a stick working on all 3 systems and the pc. I pretty much understand that i should wire the ground and power wires on both pcbs together in order to power both pcbs. But i find my self with three small problems in this process. 1 is that the cords from the wii cord are drenched in some kind of glue that i donĀ“t really know how to get rid of. So can i just peel back the plastic further up the wire and connect it in a Y-type connection there? Also if any one knows right of the bat which two wires that are the ones IĀ“m looking for on the wii pcb it would make thing easier for me. The second problem is that i dont know where to hook these wires up on the ps360. The third problem is that i have no clue which cables from the pushbuttons are ground wires and which are not. They are not marked but as far as i can tell 11 wires for 10 buttons goes from the wire harness to the pcb so im guessing 1 ground and 10 other wires. How do i know what wire goes where in the ps360 pcb wire slots? IĀ“m posting a few pictures of how the stick and wiring looks and i hope that some one here can help me.
Based on all the information you provided I donāt think youāre ready to dual mod the stick. Start by reading around. That information is posted everywhere on this site. Next, take that stick apart and take notes where everything goes. The pcb is labeled making is very easy to keep track of everything, there are two sides on the pcb.
If thatās too much to do get a Wii controller to USB adaptor by Mayflash. Theyāre $20 and work on PC and PS3.
I have PS3 TE Stick and a 360 SE Stick. I want to put the 360 PCB inside the TE stick and dual mod ghetto style with two USB wires coming out of the case.
I understand the basic idea around it but i donāt quite get the correct wiring i need to follow. Can someone help me out?
Edit - They are no replies on this thread for a year? Oopsā¦
Nercos happen. Anyway youāre going to want to use the home panel from the 360 te because itās actually a separate board. From there you are going to need to be able to solder to connect it to both boards. About the two cable thing, you need to power both boards anyway or they will eat all your ground voltage powering themselves, so since you have to to power both off either cable you are a spdt selector switch from just using one cable which why no one does it that way with USB.
Anyway youāre going to want to use the home panel from the 360 te because itās actually a separate board. From there you are going to need to be able to solder to connect it to both boards. About the two cable thing, you need to power both boards anyway or they will eat all your ground voltage powering themselves, so since you have to to power both off either cable you are a spdt selector switch from just using one cable which why no one does it that way with USB.
