How would I go about locating it? The only soldering I did to the PCB was 3 wires that are now unsoldered (power from the Cthulhu and the two USB data lines). It doesn’t look like there’s any solder touching any two different points on the PCB from my attempt to connect the wires.
Edit: here are pics I just took, with the area in question circled. Can anyone spot a reason it might be showing continuity between the 5V and ground spots? The 5V looks clearly separated from the other spots to my untrained eyes. It’s driving me crazy. My girlfriend is going to kill me if I don’t get this figured out soon…
The Good news it yes I did finally get it working. :tup:
The bad news is I’m a freaking idiot. :tdown:
I was going to resolder the project to use Xbox USB cord and partay through I realized I had the DPDT switch wired up incorrectly! That was my problem the whole freakin time! i had the SE PCB hooked up to the middle connection points instead of the D+ and D- from the USB cable. now all that’s left is to whip out the dremel, and modthe case.
Hopefully this is the correct place to ask this question. How many additional pcb’s can realistically be soldered to the existing HRAP3 pcb? I’d like to get an MC Cthulhu for PS/GC functionality, I have a spare DC controller I can strip down, and I also would like to add a common ground 360 pcb. I’ve never attempted anything like this, so pretend you’re talking to an unintelligent toddler… then dumb it down a notch. Thanks.
Edit: I also wonder if someone could recommend a good quality soldering iron, the proper gauge of wire to use, and what type/size of solder is best for this type of work. Thanks again.
this is my first post… i have read all the thread and didnt find anything on the wii pcb… or the wii hori stick… im planning on buying the wii hori stick and adding the xbox 360 (early version) pcb… to make it dual…
Im assuming the voltage of the wii pcb to be 3V… since the wii remote is the one powering the wii pcb… i know the xbox 360 pcb is 5v… so according to what i have read here all i have to do is follow this diagram riiiiiiiiight???
Here’s the fruits of my labor thus far. The mod won’t be fully done until I get my Sanwa parts. Considering I ordered on the 6th of March… well that wont be for a while. My cutting is really rough, unfortunately.
I’ve also got a Hori Fightstick 3 that’ll be modded with my other retro Gamestick.
Here’s my situation. I have a custom stick that I didn’t make myself.
The problem is, the sanwa JLF is attached to the box in a way that I can’t figure out to remove or unsolder the wires that come from the PS1 PCB. However I can remove the wires that connect to the buttons, since they are just quick disconnects.
I want to place a 360 PCB in there now. I drew a diagram. Will it work?
I don’t see why not. You have the ground and power all connected.
I’m not sure how you plan to attach the 360 lines along with the PS1 lines to the same contact point, but it should work. A terminal block would make it a lot cleaner (and easier if you ever wanted to change PCBs), but I guess you already considered that option.
Alright, thanks a lot AK.
Yea a terminal strip would definitely make it a lot cleaner,
however I’m not that experienced with the whole soldering technique and I’m afraid I might mess something up when I desolder/solder.
What I plan to do, is unhook the quick disconnects from the buttons (leading to PS1 PCB) and hook the 360 wires onto the button terminals with quick disconnects.
But it’s okay to have both PCB’s D-pad hooked up to the same joystick? (since I can’t figure out how to unsolder the PS1’s that is currently hooked on the joystick)
I hope I don’t annoy anyone here with my beginner’s questions but I’m building my first stick and would like it to work with 360/PC/PS3 and possibly a gamecube/Wii in the end.
Do I connect the D- and D+ (to the dpdt switch) directly to the corresponding pins of the Cthulhu’s USB jack? I did not see D-/D+ duplicated in the unlabeled points in the welcome doc. I did see controlcommerce’s impressive stick in this thread (p.18) and I did see the piggyback connections but cannot figure out the data lines from it.
Could one use the 2 PCBs together with the RJ-45 modular connections? That means not using the USB cable or Cthulhu USB jack but the modular setup?
Dpdt switch position 1 would then work for the 360 (using th Cthulhu’s output pins with USB cable attached to the RJ-45) and dpdt switch pos. 2 would work for Cthulhu-powered PS3 (with USB cable) and GC (with GC cable to the RJ-45)?
Can a socket be fit to the unlabeled points of the Cthulhu? I want to start with the madcatz retro PCB only, and it might be easier if I could attach/detach the cthulhu with pins rather than dirctly soldering each piggyback cable.
I am sorry if these are really stupid questions or if I overlooked the obvious, but there is such a wealth of information here since I got into building my own stick that I mighthave gotten it wrong.
If you like. It would probably be easier to the wires the appropriate columns on the Cthulhu. First post in the Cthulhu thread says which column is D+ and which is D-
Yup.
The modular RJ-45 socket? Nope. The output columns don’t go to the unlabelled points, only the direction and button inputs, along with VCC and GND.
Thank you, Toodles.
No. 1 is really what I meant when I wrote overlooked, I read your 1st cthulhu post 3 times and did not see it, sorry.
No. 3: I didn’t mean to connect the modular RJ-45 to the unlabeled point but rather if there is a standard socket/pin header that fits the holes in the PCB to solder to the board (for using quick disconnects or a plug for the piggyback connection instead of soldering each wire directly from the madcatz to the cthulhu). I’m sorry if I worded that bad, how do you call a socket/pin header in english? To make a pluggable connection so I don’t need to solder in the case’s confined space? I hope I managed to describe better now what I meant. Appeared like a good idea to me but maybe it’s not.
But to confirm, the RJ-45 ‘cable magic’ would work as I described (using the output columns GA…FV, to avoid confusion)?
Respect for your work, you managed to combine your hobby and studies into a really nice and well made product.
Oh, I think I see. Yes, you can use pin headers; the holes in the rows are a standard 2.54mm pitch, so standard cheap 100mil header pins will fit just fine.
If I understand your question, you want to dual pcb mod the Cthulhu with a common ground 360 pcb using a DPDT switch, all going to an 8 pin RJ45 jack, and have the connections to the Cthulhu be detachable using pin headers. Yes, that can work.
What I would do is get a Cthulhu kit, so there would NOT be a soldered USB jack on it. Get a 90 degree angle, 8 pin male pin header: http://futurlec.com/Connectors/HEADRAS8.shtml
and solder it to row 1. Crimp 8 wires into an 8 pin female connector http://futurlec.com/Connectors/HDCONNS8.shtml
Run the two D+ and D- wires to the DPDT switch
Have the middle wires from the DPDT switch joining with the other 6 wires from the Cthulhu to the RJ 45 jack.
I appreciate the kind words.
I just had a thought, a friend of mine is a big ms. pac-man fan and I was wondering, if one were to solder a cthulhu to one of those crappy plug into the tv ms-pac-man joysticks (assuming technical stuff like common ground works) so it would be either ms-pac-man or ps3, would dead or no batteries in the ms pac-man game prevent the stick from working in ps3 mode?
I think you might find it a little too cramped inside the existing case.
But assuming the electronics work connected up, a dead battery wouldn’t prevent it from working on PC or PS3
thanks again toodles
yeah i mean i wouldnt try to get the cthulhu into the pac man case, but rather the pac-man pcb into a fight stick case, i wonder what the pac-man thing looks like on the inside.
