toodle’s ur board is awesome. did a three pcb stick (you’d be surprised as to how much room there ISN’T in the TE) and the cthulu made it all the more painless. i only had to solder one wire from the 5V of the te stick and put that into vcc.
you’re a genius
Is the T5 Hori PCB common ground?
And can I dual mod it with a x360 retro stick PCB?
Nice work controlcommerce!
Can you use the stick wireless on PS3 or does it have to be both wired?
Just wanted to post that I followed some of the diagrams in this thread to dual mod the Mad Catz PS3 SE with a 360 pcb. I finally got it working and do not recommend it to anyone (at least not using the retro arcade madcatz pcb).
There’s not enough room inside the stick to place the additional pcb anywhere that makes sense (it ended up going underneath the buttons, but it was tight – I wouldn’t be surprised if the quick disconnects were getting bent). If I could do it over I would sell the ps3 stick, get a 360 one and mod with a cthulhu (some people mentioned this about the TE, but it’s even more so with the SE as it’s smaller).
Also, if someone has a safe way of stripping the boxes for the analog sticks from the pcb that would probably give me a little breathing room where I’d feel better about the mod.
Please put up some pictures of this if you don’t mind (labeling the soldering points would make me even happier). I bought a PS3 SE because it was all the store had, and the only console I own is a 360. I’m considering either dual modding it for 360 or just selling the thing and buying a stick I really want.
Sure. I wasn’t planning on since my wiring is horrible, but if helps you! 
I grabbed the 5v from right where the red wire from the usb goes to the mad catz pcb. I grabbed ground right from one of the button wires since I couldn’t get any diagrams for the SE.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/7748/53576218.jpg
This is where I ended up putting the 360 pcb. Only place where it barely fit (soldering points are on the other side as I had to flip the pcb for it to fit). I’ll probably find a way to velcro it down, but right now it’s so tight it can’t really go anywhere.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9862/cramped.jpg
I followed this diagram. Though since this is my first soldering job I soldered more wires than I needed to. Also the first time, half of the buttons were set up wrong, so definitely recommend testing everything with the stick plugged into windows.
I ended up going with 2 cables since it didn’t require modding the case (you can sort of cramp both usbs out), though eventually I’ll put a switch in there once I get tools to mod the case.
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2298/dualwire.jpg
But yeah, I’m really noob at this so I probably did this completely wrong (I need to redo the stick wiring at some point since I though it’d be a good idea to solder the extra wires to the existing wiring harness, don’t do this). But hey it works for both systems so I’m happy.
PS - I wired “select” to the guide button, since I have no idea how to grab the ps3 “home” button from the madcatz pcb.
No it is not common ground, You have to scrap the PCB in order to fit it with a true sanwa. I think the best thing to do would be to start over (that is, desolder the original pcb and use a ps1 dual shock pcb and 360 pcb), but I too need an answer to this question. What’s the best way to go about modding a t5 hori with a non common ground pcb?
OK, I just finished my dual PCB install, and nothing is working. Figures. I’m using a MS wired PCB and the Hori HRAP3 pcb. I followed the diagram posted earlier in this thread
http://homepage.mac.com/cramlet/.Pictures/extra/dualpcb1.jpg
Testing is being done in Windows. When switched to the 360, 2 of the LED’s on the PCB light up, and Windows detects NOTHING. Whe switched to PS3, Windows detects it as an HRAP3 and drivers are loaded. Opening up game control panel shows button 4 is pressed, none of the other buttons work except button 1 (square).
I’m not sure where I went wrong, and I don’t have a multimeter. I will buy one tomorrow if anybody has any ideas. Here are some pics, if you need to see anything closer, please let me know and I will try and get them up.
You didnt use a common ground 360 pcb.
If that’s the case, then wow I’m dumb. THIS is the PCB I used. It’s not common ground?
I had 2 of them laying around with broken USB cables…guess that means I have to spend some money on a madcatz… :arazz:
Awesome, thanks a ton. I was looking for a confirmation on the power and ground locations.
It is not common ground.
Thanks for confirmation. Should I not bother troubleshooting the PS3 side until I hook up a proper 360 PCB?
i modded my TE to work for ps2/ps3/360. they are all seperate wires unfortunately so i have a huge mess running around my room. Going to get a wire sleeve for it eventually.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/epy0nkaru/The%20Cabinet%20Project/Picture014.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/epy0nkaru/The%20Cabinet%20Project/Picture015.jpg
there’s the inside of it,. used the stock pcb, a cthulu board, and a ps1 pad. wanna thank jouki for the awesome idea of getting the buttons to share wires (it may not be his idea but it was because of him that it was so easy for me)
that’s the foam from the TE stick packaging if you’re asking
I was wondering is the HRAP 3’s PCB common ground? I might buy another retro stick for its PCB and throw it in there so that I’ll have 2 sticks that’ll be compatible for SF4 madness!
These threads are enormous! I just got a couple Madcatz Arcade Gamesticks, aka Retro sticks, and I’ve stripped one down to the PCB but I’m not actually sure what to do next. Where do I start? I’ve sure it’s discussed throughout this and/or the padhacking thread but they’re kinda disorganized. I’ve got some Lizardlick parts on order and I’d like to have my sticks wired up for drop in replacement when the parts come.
I’m trying to hack a Fighting Stick 3 and a Madcatz SE SFIV stick. The FS3 is the primary concern as it’ll likely be the more difficult one to hack. I have a few questions after looking at this diagram for the gamestick.
I assume the vibration motors can be removed without having to put in any kind of resistors in their place. Also it says to set the triggers to neutral, how do I do that? also what is the deal with the red and black wire with tape on them going across the back? What are they connected to and what to they accomplish?
This is pretty much my first electronics project and I’m kinda lost here. Any help would be greatly appreciated or at least if you could point me to the right posts or something.
Yeah you can just rip the vibration motor. From testing my particular controller’s inputs with a windows box, I don’t think you need to run that wire if you’re not planning on using the triggers. I used the bumpers as my fierce/roundhouse since the solder points were simpler so I didn’t end up doing the wire running down the back. Seemed to work just fine.
Can anyone (or Toodles :lovin:) tell me if this PCB is common ground? It is a Madcatz wired controller I got from Circuit City marked 2008 on the case, but it doesn’t quite match either photo on slagcoin.com.
And if it is common ground, do I solder to the left or right points of the button? And where is the ground I should use?
Thanks for putting up with my newbness
Thing is, I definitely want to use the triggers for an 8 button setup. That allows the most flexibility in button setups.
Any help with that would be appreciated.
It appears to be the same as the common ground madcatz controllers. The tell tale sign on which ones are the ground and which ones are the signal are the visible traces on the circuit board leading away from the pads. That said, it appears like it would match the previous madcatz diagrams. There isn’t an answer to the left or right points of the button because it could be different on each one. (X button signal its the right pad, B button its the left, etc) For the ground, any ground point will work (which is why common grounds are great) Just pick a button and hook on to that ground.
The most recent diagrams should be valid, but as always using the correct tools to measure it is the safest way.
