How do you determine which PTC to get? I’m looking at the Itrip rating and it’s in mA. I could always get the one Toodles uses, but I would like to know how to determine the trip mA just knowing you have a 5V and 3.3V source.
Same can be asked for diodes as well.
Been testing and used the method in the image - diode and dpdt’s.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9413/ps360pcbstrip1acd4.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/ps360pcbstrip1acd4.jpg/1/w514.png
More dpdt’s for the lights, but other than that you only really need one dpdt without lights. I cut both pcb usb cables and wired datas to the pcb and powers to the usb, you can make one for about $20-30 if you can buy second hand pads.
http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/5703/ps360pcbusb1awu8.jpg
http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/ps360pcbusb1awu8.jpg/1/w700.png
PS360, the switches are at the back.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/2986/ps360top1caz0.th.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/2003/ps360main1bwh7.th.jpg
Did you ever resolve this? If not, are you connecting your cables to both consoles at the same time?
no, i didnt connect both consoles at once. i haven’t gotten back into it cuzi couldnt find my mulitmeter yet.
but i checked my wiring over again, and both pcb’s worked fine separately on both system. and then when i hook up the common ground and the two power sources, tested, ps2 works fine, fries DC.
as i said before, i read through the whole forum and got a little confused.
i DONT have to have a DPDT switch right?
is it because since both pads are powered on, the dreamcast couldnt handle all the current that’s going through it?
thanks for asking man. I almost fogot all about this.
To be honest, the whole DC frying thing puzzles me. If it’s frying the DC, it should fry the PS2 as well. The point of connecting the ground and VCC lines is just to complete the circuit. If you don’t connect the two, it’s like have two dangling ground connections and two VCC connections.
And no, you don’t need a DPDT switch. It should work just fine. Your issue has me worrying about my dual PCB setup now (Cthulhu and PSX). I’ve played on the PS3 just fine and the PSX PCB works fine using a converter on Windows. I have yet to try it on the actual console. Hmm. I will have to test that out tomorrow.
cool, let know how that turns out. cuz im planning on making one for myself, ps3/psx, just like yours, using the Cthulhu. thanks.
I saw this asked before, but didn’t see an answer. Is it possible to have both wireless ps3 and 360 at once or is this a bad idea? I’m wanting wireless because of the physical setup in my room.
While on this same subject, what is the best way to incorporate the Wii into the mix. I would like to have a wireless ps3/360/wii setup. Using the classic controller for the Wii is what I’m thinking and just connecting the wire from the CC to the Wiimote. I need to have the Wii wireless because of my physical setup (I do not have access to the GC ports on the Wii)
So, is a 3 system all wireless setup possible or a pipe dream?
Edit: The Classis Controller is has a common ground as does the later revs of the 360 controller. The only problem here is the ps3 controller. I may have to live with it not being all wireless…please give comments…
Another edit: I was thinking the only way to do this might be to put switches which I don’t mind doing, just a question, what wires should I put the switch on to make sure that 2 controllers don’t power up at the same time? The Wii Classic Controller would essentially be treated as a wired controller at it requires the Wii Remote to operate. Please give some insight as I am noobish to building sticks. I have built a mame cab, but it is a whole lot less to deal with. Thanks.
If anyone is awake I really need some help, working on 2 pcbs in a stick, one psx http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram4.jpg
and one 360 madcatz arcade stick.
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram2.jpg
Im having a problem right now, I’m pretty new to padhacking and the likes in general, but, I have everything soldered and connected in a wire terminal, except the common ground for the psx pad the ground from the 360 pad and the ground from the JLF too, these are all connected together, soldered in a bunch.
I have soldered the 5v and the 3.3v together.
Heres the issue, I try to play anniversary collection on both systems and the down is firing constantly so I disconnect the down to the 360 pad from the terminal and everything works perfectly on ps2, but even with it disconnected the issue persists on to the 360. (i get the constant down on 360 even after i disconnect the down for the 360 pad)
If you need me to elaborate a little more, I will
Edit* I tried to disconnecting both downs to test for a hardware failure and the 360 pcb keeps hitting down, is there a problem with my grounds? I looked at them to see if they were making other contacts.
I’m not sure what to do
Use your multimeter to check the resistance between ground and the signal line for down. It sounds like theres a short somewhere on the board, and no resistance between the two would confirm that. If there’s no resistance, you need to do some checking to find the source of the short.
I’m pretty new to this, Ive been trying to find tutorials on how to check resistance so I could try without asking more questions, but here I am, I have an multimeter, I’m just not sure what to set it to, I have 2 for OHMS 2 for BAT, 2 for DCA 4 for DCV and 4 for ACV, I was checking ohms cause the meter moves, but I’m not even going to try to pretend like I understand how to properly do this so any help would be nice.
EDIT* I think I understand a little better, I started out testing in rx1k OHMS and was getting no resistance, dunno why so maybe someone can explain,
Then I switched to rx10 ohms and was getting 4 -7 or 8 OHMS of resistance for everything on each board except on the 360 pcb down was giving me no resistance at all, so I’m going to assume its a bad solder making contact with the ground near it. and try again.
I’ve run into a really random problem after basically adding a 360 madcatz (late version) pcb to my t5 hori mod.
Everything works correctly on the 360 (despite a short in one of the trigger buttons that I didn’t use anyway)
Everything works correctly on the ps2, although there are times when I plug it in and the controls will spaz out completely, but I fix it by just replugging the stick back in. I just chalked this up to a side effect of me being cheap and using duel pcbs.
I don’t really care about those problems though unless they’re related to this one. When I try plugging the psx board into an adapter, it doesn’t work. When I opened the stick up to see where anything might be going wrong all I noted was that the 360 board kind of powers on when I try to plug the psx into a dreamcast total control adapter.
When I say kind of powers on I mean all four lights where the xbox button is supposed to be start blinking faintly and rapidly, as opposed to just one solid light based on the player slot.
Any insight on this problem would be really appreciated as I am pretty lost as to what to try.
Check to see if your voltages are properly wired.
So I just did this dual PCB thing for the first time to my new stick (PSX digital M/360 madcatz [2008 version; not listed on Slagcoin]) and I have a slight issue.
I tested it on PS2 on the dashboard and several games and it works. I tested it on 360 on the dashboard and it works except for one game.
I put it to VF5 and the A button doesn’t work when selecting profile data (for quest mode and such).
Any problem or solution on this?
hi,
i was wondering if anyone could help me out with this dualshock1 sony scph 1200 m pcb
http://shrani.si/f/1N/4C/2yLXTMt3/dva.jpg
my (crappy) multimeter gives me these readings:
wires from left to right (looking at it from the top like in the pic. the wires are on the other side 
)
8 - black - 0.00 (this is the ground yes?)
7 - purple - 4.90/4.91
6 - red - 3.42/3.43
5 - green - 3.77
4 - brown - 3.57
3 - orange(ish) - 3.94
2 - blue - 4.48/4.49
1 - yellow - 3.77/3.78
just what is the 3.3v wire to be connected with the 5.5v of the madcatz arcade stick pcb? dont want to fry my trusty ps pcb :wgrin:
The 3.3 volts on my ps1 pads are the red wire coming from the cable.
My guess is red, but I can’t find an exact diagram of the dualshock 1 M
here is a similar pcb http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram7.jpg
yep, i know the slagcoin site, but it seems that different scph 1200 models have different wires for power… that picture, for example, has a 3.3volt on the 5th wire, but my 5th wire is not red, its green… i do have another scph 1080 h digital pcb, and that one has the 3.3 power on the red wire and i could use that one instead, but then my gc compabilty would go down the drain… ahh crap :sad: guess i’ll have to wait if someone knows something about this scph 1200 m pcb… or untill the new paint i threw on the arcade stick box dries (which is extremely slooooow)…
that is because the xbox360 pcb gets the power, but not the “info” it needs… same as plugging a xbox360 controler into a pc, that has no drivers for the xbox360pad… the four lights just blink all day long… but when you install a driver - presto, the pc recognizes the pad, and the pad gets assigned to the first available slot (of the four avail taht is)…
Okay, so I just bought a HRAP3 off of Amazon. I was wondering if it would be possible to get rid of the cord and terminate it into a standard USB jack so I can just plug a USB cable into the stick when I want to use it on PS3. I also want to put a PS2 PCB in there. Is the HRAP3 PCB common ground?
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/1033/unbenanntld1.jpg
quick image to confirm if i’m right
(the pins i chose one the Cthulhu are random, but thats not the point)
I’m going to take a shot at this tomorrow with a PSX type H pad and a Mad Catz Arcade. Here are the PCBs from slagcoin: http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram2.jpg and http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram9.jpg
I spoke to an SRK member for about an hour earlier on AIM and think that I have the gist of this. I’d be happy if someone could look over my notes and answer a couple of questions before I nuke two PCBs. 
I don’t plan on using the terminal strip like some of the other illustrations. I’m just going to connect the two pads directly together. Here are my notes:
Is that all correct?
I am using a SFAC with tons of room in the box. How should I keep the PCBs in place? Velcro? Hot glue?
Thanks in advance for any help.
