Thanks mate, the zendesk solved every doubt I had
I’ll order soon
So my brother was nice and got me an ADCAP supergun for xmas. But I was wondering what the pinout for the extra buttons where on the back? I already have the adapters for the CSP2 and CPS1. However I also have a System 12 board which has its own harness. So I’d like to be able to wire that up as well. Though if it comes down to it, I could use the Capcom JVS IO adapter and use the CPS2 kich harness instead.
Just guy everything out of the old TE. The pcb inside is trash anyways.
Some recent Panzer Fight Stick builds 
quick question cause i can’t see it currently since the site is down. what is the weight of the panzer? i want to order one when the store opens back up for business, but i was just curious.
A couple of announcements! The partnership with ArcadeShock is proving to be a winner, so much so they are are offering 25% off and free shipping on their Transporter FS 2 Fight Stick bag for JasensCustoms.com customers who buy a Fully Assembled Panzer Fight Stick. You get the code automatically in your account panel on my site when you buy a fully built stick!
Next up, the TES+ EZ MOD is officially available! You can pick one up on my site today. Its a full kit so no need to worry about soldering, etc.
Install video is here: Let's Build Something: TES+ EZ MOD Install with the Brook Universal Fighting Board - YouTube
@Jasen_Hicks Where can I get the template for the Hori VLX panels? The Hitbox panel and the Sega 2P 8 button layout? Thanks.
Thanks Jasen!
…not sure I’m going to get an answer on this old thread! Is there way a purchasing only the EZ BUILD pcb and the required cables? I’ve got already a Brook PS4+ pcb and the Panzer DIY kit is a bit costly to ship to the UK.
I’ll will be “happy” to build my own case (and I can wire some LEDs and the turbo button), but I found your PCB quite handy to have a clean cable management!
Not really. The inventory is ordered and stocked 1:1 with the requisite amount of cases, so it’s not like we have a stack of them sitting around. Additionally, the cables are all measured out to fit exactly to the PCB’s dimensions with the main board designed to screw into four provided standoffs within the Panzer. While you could theoretically make this work, you’re really just better off building a set of techflex/heatshrink harnesses, or ordering them from someone local to the UK (like arcadeworlduk.com), and then running them into the Brook’s screw terminals.
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Dat Lindbergh stick…total class! Is the CPO printed on the Plexiglas or traditionally printed? If I ever manage to get my hands on one, that’s exactly what I’d want, 6B master race for me though, lol.
Hi. Does someone have art for Panzer 3 printed plexi? I would be tempted to purchase printed plexi with art I liked. 
I like the DBFZ ones (Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Printed Plexi [DBFZ - Goku] and Panzer Fight Stick 3 - Printed Plexi [DBFZ - Vegeta]), but a broader selection would be welcome. 
Thanks!
Could you use the panzer without the plexiglass or would it rust?
I would like to use Samducksa SDL with balltop and soft feel (im used to JLF for years) but a balltop make it feels hard even with the softest official/white grommet and also i found the shaft too tall.
Is there any mod from Jasen Customs that offers a bit shorter shaft and a even softer grommet?
Why did you by the Infiltration stick if you’re used to JLF? It’s more of a Korean/JLF hybrid. Korean sticks suck for anything besides Tekken or another 3D fighter imo. You can buy whatever you want, it’s your money, but sounds like you need to stick with a JLF or a Hayabusa.
I see.
I’m used to its feeling but i grew up in american sticks, i will always give a try to something new and the Infiltration lever is very good actually, best korean stick i experienced.
Why not Happ IL? I know you wanted to ask this question but nowadays i like balltops more.
IMO each stick model is best suited to its stock “top”. e.g., a ball-top Japanese stick is never as good with a bat top. I got the Infiltration stick too and didn’t think it was as good with a ball top as with its default bat top. But you should check this out yourself like I have. 
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Hmmm, thought about using a Brook Retro board with a UD-USB now… Might be the best solution - also considering soldering isn’t on the table and the FAQ says it’s necessary when adding the Retro Board to an existing installation…